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Models > HDA2100N10WW > Instructions

HDA2100N10WW Hotpoint Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for HDA2100N10WW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the HDA2100N10WW
16-30 of 270
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Lost Despenser Lid, Droped It And Havent Seen It Since.

  • Customer: ANNE from SWANNANOA, NC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 18 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Ordered the part, by using the diagram on the ge website identified the part and ordered it right them and when it came (delivered really fast) took it out of the bag and screwed it in the jet dry despenser and is working great.

dishwasher leaking water when water went into drain

  • Customer: john from east greenbush, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
I read all the other repairs first to find out what I had to do. I then took front cover off the bottom of dishwasher. Identified the leak was coming from drain seal. I shut breaker off unpluged wires that were hooked to the drain valve sensor. removed the clip carfully as not to damage it. Removed srews that held down drain valve. removed the push on nut that holds drain seal in place. then removed old seal. I wiped down shaft to get ride of any corrosion and reinstalled new seal with deep socket and a srew driver. I installed new push on nut with another size socket. I fitted drain valve to shaft, used plyers to gently to pull shaft so I could put the c clip back onto grove on the shaft. reinstalled spring and plug wires back in turned breaker back on. I turned the dishwasher on and it did not leak. I was very happy that i did not have to take the dishwasher out. I did all repairs with everything still hooked up.

plastic hinge arm link broke causing door to flop open

  • Customer: Margaret from Meridian, MS
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 19 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
First I had to unscrew screws under the counter then pulled built in dishwasher out from under the counter, attached hing arm link to right side bracket on door, and the other end I attatched to a spring at the back of the unit. Thats it! and pushed the dishwasher back into place. All back to normal....by the way Im a 67 yr old great grandmother...

Dishwasher rack was rusting and partially broken

  • Customer: John C from Indianapolis, IN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
The repair only required me to lift out the old unit and set the new rack into the dishwasher. I was pleased that there was nothing to put together. The rollers were already attached.
It took longer to open the shipping box than to do the installation.

leak at shaft seal

  • Customer: DAVID from ADAMS, MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
The shaft pulled out of the housing when I tried to get the push nut off. I had to take the pump housing out in order to get the shaft lined up with the valve when reassembling. In the end, the shaft had so much slop that no seal could keep it from leaking. Time for a new dishwasher.

Dishwasher solenoid overheated

  • Customer: Matt from Summerfield, NC
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
If you are replacing an overheated solenoid that had the plastic melt, don't forgot to order a armature and link as well. I made this mistake and had to wait another week to fix the dishwasher. The repair wasn't too bad. The most time consuming part was putting the E-clip retainer ring back on the diverter shaft. Tipping the dishwasher back some really helped for me to have more room to see and work with.

Water was leaking form around drain valve shaft.

  • Customer: Barry from Knoxville, TN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I called the repair guy, and he told me I'd have to replace the motor/pump assembly. He said he could do it for around $250 to $300. I logged onto this website for a look and saw the seal available. After reading the other responses, I figured with a seal and the cheap push-nut (that sometimes gets mangled upon removal), it would be worth a try.
I pulled the dishwasher partly out from under the cabinet; disconnected the front support mount, the drain hose, and the two water boots; dropped the motor/pump assembly; removed the solenoid; removed the e-clip, push-nut, shaft, and old seal; and then reinstalled everything. The hardest part of the repair was the tight working conditions. I wonder how many people pay hundreds of dollars because of this $15 part.

Replacement of the Dish Racks due to corrosion

  • Customer: Raymond from Rochester, NY
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
The top dish rack was not an exact replacement, the side shelf did not fit and the center spray did not fit. I ran into much more trouble removing the the top rack than I had thought. I used the old wheels and it finally went on but the other mentioned problems remained.

Broken Door

  • Customer: john from Maspeth, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 15 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
I removed all the screws from the inner cover , I t was neccesary to remove the kick panel cover to get at the bottom screws , the door came right off , I needed help with the hinges as they are spring loaded , it was a little tricky to transfer the soap dispenser from the old inner panel , it was worth the effort , the whole thing only took 20 minutes , dishwaser is like new again

tub corner baffles were falling apart

  • Customer: ROBERT from GLOBE, AZ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I opened the D/W door, used needle nose pliers to remove the old baffles. They come right out. I cleaned the area using paper towels and installed the new baffles. They just sit in the corners with nothing holding them. Simple job.

Water leak at drain valve shaft

  • Customer: Randolph from Orlando, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Before ordering the parts I read the posts by other do it yourselfers and found them very helpful. I ordered the seal and shaft nut from Parts Select and was impressed the parts were delivered in a couple of days. I removed the two lower panels from the dishwasher to expose the leak and the shaft. I turned off the electricity at the circuit breaker box and disconnected the wiring harness to expose the area I would work on. After cleaning the water deposits from the shaft I pried off the small lock washer and removed the plastic cam from the selenoid. Next step required removal of the push on nut. This was the most difficult part of the entire procedure. It required a bit of gentle but firm pulling with pliers and a couple of screwdrivers, sacrificing the nut in the process. It was better ordering a new one originally then trying to save the old one. Having experiencing these nuts in previous work, I knew a new nut would be a cheap fix! Once off, the old seal is easy to remove. Place the new seal on the shaft as per the included instructions, place the new push on nut and reassemble as originally taken apart. (I used a socket set to push on the push on nut.) I then ran a load of dishes to make sure there was no leak before reinstalling the lower panels. I had no leak but pay close attention to placing the seal and push on nut. The seal must be in the exact place.

Leaking water when in use.

  • Customer: J from Walnut, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Part was an exact match. Make sure to use plumber's tape on all threads. Had to really tighten fittings to prevent leaks. Screws are a little difficult to get to. Test for leaks first, before final installation.

Dishwasher would not drain. Used air to confirm drain hose was clear. Traced problem to Drain Solenoid

  • Customer: chris from Albany, OR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
After determining the drainage issue was caused by the solenoid, (by process of elimination; the hose was clear, drain opening clear, diverter moving freely, power to solenoid present during rinse cycle= bad solenoid. Solenoid showed signs of overheating upon internal inspection...) I transfered the bracket assembly to the new solenoid, re-attached bracket to diverter reservoir, connected spring and power and Did a test run. Solenoid works great! I did notice the shaft on which the diverter pivots leaking just a bit while moving the shaft. You might consider oredering a new gasket for it if you plan to replace the solenoid. Pretty easy repair. Especially considering the complexity of some other possible problems! Good luck!

The seal for the drain valve was leaking.

  • Customer: mary from orlando, FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the front bottom panels to give me access to the Solenoid area. I did not take out the dishwasher from the cabinetry. I removed the screws holding the solenoid assembly and the C clip holding the hand fan shaped white nylon thing onto the valve shaft. I slipped these to the side. Then I cut through and removed the push on nut with a wire snipper plier. Then I used a knife blade tip to pick out the black seal. I then slipped the new seal onto the shaft, being careful that the flat side was outward, and slid it down the shaft and , with my fingernail, pushed it completely flush into position. The biggest challenge was the push on nut. It does not push on easily and must have the lips pointed outward. It required the use of a 3/8" diamater tube slipped over the shaft to tap the nut down the shaft. This caused the shaft to push into the pump housing, which caused the valve to bind. So I used a vice grip to pull out on and hold the shaft while I tapped the push on nut with a flat head screwdriver. Then I just reversed the solenoid assembly removal. But , when I ran the dishwasher, it no longer leaked.

Water Leak In Rubber Connector Pin Hole At Seam

  • Customer: Allan from Stony Point, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Shut of water to the built in dishwasher and shot of electric breaker , removed the water line and removed electric hookup at washer. Removed the drain pipe connected to the garbage disposal unit for more darin pipe room when pulling the appliance out from under the counter. Pull out the appliance, and carefully layed it flat on the back. Loosed the 2 connector clamps with a srewdriver from the upper and lower rubber connectors and the small drain rubber connector, used a plier. Loosed the screw on wire hold down pulled the housing pump out of the rubber connectors and used a wire hanger to help support the dangling housing pump unit. Unscrewed the damanged rubber connector using a washcloth for a better grip. , Rescrewed in the new rubber connector. ( Hint- used petrolem vasaline on the rubber connector base for a water tight fit) . Reconnected all , replaced elctric and water line, reconnected the darin pipe to the garabage disposal. Turned water back on. All worked at well.
All Instructions for the HDA2100N10WW
16-30 of 270