HDA2000Z07WH Hotpoint Dishwasher - Instructions

took the front covers off, used om meter as suggested after disconnecting the wire plug. discovered infinity, so as suggested, determined the valve defective. Ordered over the new valve from this company. After it arrived, took the old valve off by removing it from the bracket. Used the pliers to take the hose off, then unscrewed the supply hose by usung the adjustable wrench. Took the old valve to my shop vise to hold it firmly, then unscrewed the fitting, wrapped the tape suggested and installed it on the new valve. Took it back to the dishwasher, screwed the supply hose on, slipped the hose on and the clamp, turned on the water to check for leaks. Found non, so installed the valve on the frame, turned on the power and checked for filling. Itfilled fine and operated like it was supposed to. Put the front covers back on, and enjoyed praise from wife!!!

Most difficult part of repair was getting dishwasher out and in under the cabinet. Especially, feeding the copper water line from under the sink and then back while trying to align the connection. Installing the part itself was easy with good instruction for taking it off and reinstalling. However, since the motor had been upgraded, it required new connections. The connections were provided for this, but no instructions for the electrical connections.

Read Joseph from Livermore, CA for good instructions. I took a camera phone photo for reference before I started. Should have taken another photo half way thru. Probably put the push-on-nut on backwards as it didn't 'lock' in - had too much play in the shaft, would have leaked. Impossible to get nut back off in good shape. I put original mangled push-on-nut on also - it added enough tension to eliminate play in the shaft. No leak..but lucky. Go ahead, you can do this repair for under $20.

after watching related video on partselect.com, diagnosis and repair couldn't have been much simpler!

There is sufficient clearance to remove the motor and pump from under the dishwasher after removal of the front lower panels. This avoids the inconvenience of moving the dishwasher. Some ouch work required to remove some of the fittings as sight lines are obstructed - use a mirror to help. Installation is easier as all but one of the hose and pump clamps can be installed with the screw heads accessible from the front. Only installation issue was that the mounting holes on the pump body for the ground wires and the support piece had been drilled but no screw threads had been cut. Two minutes work with a tap solved the problem. One suggestion is to run a couple of loads before replacing the front cover to check for leaks. I did find one after the second load.

Followed the instructions on the website video. Piece of cake! No tools were required. Insert the plastic insert into the wheel ensuring the right side faces the rack. Snap onto the rack once done.

When I received the first order the lower rack didn't fit because it wasn't wide enough. Your people replaced the rack and now all works in good fashion. Thx, phil

Instructions for repairs. Remove old rack from dishwasher. Stop, have a beer. Open packing box. Remove new dishwasher rack from box. Rest. Have another beer. Slidey old thingamajig rack ouy from dithwather. Shove into packing box. Figure out where you put the new rack. Pick up new rack, put new rack on countertop. Hav anoder beer. Put nw wreck in dithwather. Take bx & bee botluls to trash. Take nap. :>) S.

Troubleshot and found that the solenoid had burnt up locking the drain door in closed position. I ordered solenoid, Note: I only received the solenoid. I used the old bracket and springs along with the piston arm for the solenoid. I had to break it free from the old solenoid. Once I got everything cleaned up and put together it took me about 10 minutes to install the solenoid. I manually tested mine prior to wiring back up to ensure proper movement and then tested to ensure that the piston arm did not pop out of the solenoid base.

Installed new ones as per instruction

I ordered the corner baffles and installed them in the corners in just minutes. Repair company quoted me about $100 if they had the parts on the truck. If they had to come back it would be another service call. Did the repairs my self for $24 with shipping charges. Happy Customer

follow your video instruction. very simple.

The machine had been running sluggish for a while. Replaced the pump awhile back, but it still wasn't draining good. Then it quit draining. The solenoid is mounted on the pump, two screws and a clip on the valve door shaft come off. The new one is easy to put on. Caution: many of these appliance people say that timers are often needlessly replaced, but when I looked at the old solenoid, it looked like a meltdown had occurred. It was not worn out, it had overheated. Checked out timer and found cause. The gear on the motor shaft was partially stripped, causing drain valve to stay open too long. New timer, solenoid, pump-ten years old and never ran this good.

My machine stopped leaking after I simply massaged the door gasket and cleaned the baffles. I did order the necessary parts, they arrived in a very timely manner and the process was painless. After watching the video for both the door gasket and the tub baffles, when my machine decides to leak again, I will be ready to install new parts. As a snow bird, my machine sits idle for 6 months and I think things tend to dry out. Wonderful experience in ordering and video watching.

Key symptom: when the drain phase begins, there should be a satisfying "Thunk" from the solenoid. No Thunk=solenoid not working