HDA2000G00BB Hotpoint Dishwasher - Instructions

Just watch the video and you will be fine. The only thing I would suggest is buying both your rack slide end caps because with the age of my machine they were brittle and cracked/broke where they were supposed to only bend. Spend the extra $.64 and you will be glad you did.

well, having read the previous customers installation comments, i was prepared to have issues with the little clips that go in the tracks for the top rack. however, it was much easier than anticipated. all you have to do is bend the tab out so the clip will easily slide into the track and clip into place. no twisting or funny angles needed. for removing them, just use a flathead screwdriver to get in the track and bend the tab out so they easily slide out. super simple.

This was a 45 min project. New pump was a redesign. Match your style with the instruction sheet. ( pictures are upside down) Install drain on pump. Remove wirng connectors(3) and hanger. Raemove in/out pump clamps, and remove pump. Reverse procedure( I had to bend the new hanger to fit). When I first fired it up, nothing happened for about 5 min. Then water got into the pump and it started working. Quieter, more powerful spray. Grabbed a beer.

Opened the front door, replaced the right and left rubber baffles, which you just set in place, and replaced a missing wheel on the lower rack. Closed the door and ran the dishwasher through it's cycle, no more leaks!

open packages of baffles, installed per video, done, no leak!

The initial problem was that the top rack was difficult to slide out. I purchased a new set of upper rollers. In order to remove the roller you must slide it off the rail. To do this, you must first remove the end cap. I broke the end original end cap trying to do this. The new roller installation was simple. So was the installation of the new end cap. Simply press it on.

After shutting off the water and switching off the electric, I removed the lower panels and disconnected both. I then pulled the unit out and set it on its back. I removed the related hoses and moved the pump to the side. Using a 2" X 6" piece of PVC pipe, I removed the wash arm rubber connector which had a small slit in it and installed the new one with the PVC pipe. After reconnecting the hoses and reversing the process, I powered up the unit resulting in another successful repair with the help of Parts Select.com.

the parts were delivered quickly. i removed the lower rack. the rollers were ready to install. they simply snapped on the post. Done! i placed the rack back in its place and they fixed the problem.

This repair was not difficult except that the part was hard to get to. You need to lay on the ground and the space is small to fit the tools in. It was especially difficult to squeeze the hose clamp on and off. If you are the handy sort and would not be intimidated by pulling the dishwasher out (like I was), then I recommend doing that. Changing the actual part was a breeze and self explanatory. Be sure to shut off the power and water supply to the dishwasher. Bring a towel to soak up residual water in the hose. Watch the video on this site, it was exactly what I needed to see! I was able to fix my mom's dishwasher! What a great feeling!

Took lower panel off with screwdriver. Removed old spring. Attached new spring. Very easy, and I'm a woman. LOL

took the front covers off, used om meter as suggested after disconnecting the wire plug. discovered infinity, so as suggested, determined the valve defective. Ordered over the new valve from this company. After it arrived, took the old valve off by removing it from the bracket. Used the pliers to take the hose off, then unscrewed the supply hose by usung the adjustable wrench. Took the old valve to my shop vise to hold it firmly, then unscrewed the fitting, wrapped the tape suggested and installed it on the new valve. Took it back to the dishwasher, screwed the supply hose on, slipped the hose on and the clamp, turned on the water to check for leaks. Found non, so installed the valve on the frame, turned on the power and checked for filling. Itfilled fine and operated like it was supposed to. Put the front covers back on, and enjoyed praise from wife!!!

Most difficult part of repair was getting dishwasher out and in under the cabinet. Especially, feeding the copper water line from under the sink and then back while trying to align the connection. Installing the part itself was easy with good instruction for taking it off and reinstalling. However, since the motor had been upgraded, it required new connections. The connections were provided for this, but no instructions for the electrical connections.

Read Joseph from Livermore, CA for good instructions. I took a camera phone photo for reference before I started. Should have taken another photo half way thru. Probably put the push-on-nut on backwards as it didn't 'lock' in - had too much play in the shaft, would have leaked. Impossible to get nut back off in good shape. I put original mangled push-on-nut on also - it added enough tension to eliminate play in the shaft. No leak..but lucky. Go ahead, you can do this repair for under $20.

after watching related video on partselect.com, diagnosis and repair couldn't have been much simpler!

There is sufficient clearance to remove the motor and pump from under the dishwasher after removal of the front lower panels. This avoids the inconvenience of moving the dishwasher. Some ouch work required to remove some of the fittings as sight lines are obstructed - use a mirror to help. Installation is easier as all but one of the hose and pump clamps can be installed with the screw heads accessible from the front. Only installation issue was that the mounting holes on the pump body for the ground wires and the support piece had been drilled but no screw threads had been cut. Two minutes work with a tap solved the problem. One suggestion is to run a couple of loads before replacing the front cover to check for leaks. I did find one after the second load.