HDA110S-55AW Hotpoint Dishwasher - Instructions

Hook cable ends to arms on the bottom of the door. Then, hook one spring to the Triangle plates on the ends of the cables. Then hook one end of the second spring to the triangle plate on one of the cables. There will be significate tension when hooking the other end of the other cable. Vice grip pliers locked on the end of the other triangle plate works well to give a good grip for taking up the tension in oder to hook the last spring to the other triangle plate. Odds are that the broken cable will be obvious - the other cable will be weakened and should be replaced.

There is no repair easier than this! Simply remove the decayed gaskets and replace with new. No tools, no glue, no nothin'.

Just watch the video and you will be fine. The only thing I would suggest is buying both your rack slide end caps because with the age of my machine they were brittle and cracked/broke where they were supposed to only bend. Spend the extra $.64 and you will be glad you did.

Replaced the tray with a new one. Would have been no problem at all, if I had realized how the track end clip was supposed to go. I thought the release had to be pushed toward the lock, but it needs to be pushed away from it. This sounds confusing, but when you look at it, it may be more clear to you.

Remove lower rack from dishwasher to provide easy access to spray arm/hub assembly. Removed hub/spray arm assembly from base of dishwasher by unscrewing it from the base of the dishwasher. You should be able to do this by hand. Then unscrew the upper spray arm from the hub. This is the telescoping tube that pops up from the center, and it is reverse threaded, so loosen it like you're tightening it.Remove the Phillips head screw holding the spray arm to the old hub. Transfer the upper spray arm assembly to the new hub. Screw the whole assembly back on the threaded connection it came off of. Hand tighten only.

This was a 45 min project. New pump was a redesign. Match your style with the instruction sheet. ( pictures are upside down) Install drain on pump. Remove wirng connectors(3) and hanger. Raemove in/out pump clamps, and remove pump. Reverse procedure( I had to bend the new hanger to fit). When I first fired it up, nothing happened for about 5 min. Then water got into the pump and it started working. Quieter, more powerful spray. Grabbed a beer.

go to google..replace ge dishwasher rack.. very clear way to pry tab with a quarter and rotate end cap.. remove/replace rack reverse install end cap

Opened the front door, replaced the right and left rubber baffles, which you just set in place, and replaced a missing wheel on the lower rack. Closed the door and ran the dishwasher through it's cycle, no more leaks!

open packages of baffles, installed per video, done, no leak!

The initial problem was that the top rack was difficult to slide out. I purchased a new set of upper rollers. In order to remove the roller you must slide it off the rail. To do this, you must first remove the end cap. I broke the end original end cap trying to do this. The new roller installation was simple. So was the installation of the new end cap. Simply press it on.

the parts were delivered quickly. i removed the lower rack. the rollers were ready to install. they simply snapped on the post. Done! i placed the rack back in its place and they fixed the problem.

Most difficult part of repair was getting dishwasher out and in under the cabinet. Especially, feeding the copper water line from under the sink and then back while trying to align the connection. Installing the part itself was easy with good instruction for taking it off and reinstalling. However, since the motor had been upgraded, it required new connections. The connections were provided for this, but no instructions for the electrical connections.

Disconnect power at breaker box or unplug from outlet. After removing the base panels the door springs are observed lying loose on the floor, with a broken cable at one side and the other intact. Determine the part number from the PartSelect online diagram -(I ordered the parts and had them in hand the next day). Open the door and remove the under-counter mounting screws, close and latch the door, and pull the unit approx 2" out from the cabinet enclosure. Note the cable mounting pegs on the bottom of the door. Remove both cables and install loop ends of new ones on the posts, making sure cables are under the plastic rollers. Connect the springs side by side, to the double-hole cable ends, one at a time, keeping a Firm Grip on each spring until it is secure. Make certain that the cables are both under their respective rollers before opening the door to test its proper working. Push unit back into place and resecure the undercounter screws. Restore power to the unit.

Read Joseph from Livermore, CA for good instructions. I took a camera phone photo for reference before I started. Should have taken another photo half way thru. Probably put the push-on-nut on backwards as it didn't 'lock' in - had too much play in the shaft, would have leaked. Impossible to get nut back off in good shape. I put original mangled push-on-nut on also - it added enough tension to eliminate play in the shaft. No leak..but lucky. Go ahead, you can do this repair for under $20.

There is sufficient clearance to remove the motor and pump from under the dishwasher after removal of the front lower panels. This avoids the inconvenience of moving the dishwasher. Some ouch work required to remove some of the fittings as sight lines are obstructed - use a mirror to help. Installation is easier as all but one of the hose and pump clamps can be installed with the screw heads accessible from the front. Only installation issue was that the mounting holes on the pump body for the ground wires and the support piece had been drilled but no screw threads had been cut. Two minutes work with a tap solved the problem. One suggestion is to run a couple of loads before replacing the front cover to check for leaks. I did find one after the second load.