HDA1100N10WH Hotpoint Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed the warped roller wheel and clipped the new one in place. Then I screwed the rail guides back on the dishwasher and guided the upper rack back onto the rail guides. Easy peasy.

Removed old rack replaced with new one which was an exact duplicate. Mama's happy; everybody's happy.

We knew roughly how we needed to put the cap on the rail, but our technique of simply forcing it in the end of the rail wasn't working. The trick is to bend the moveable part of the plastic cap inward while you're sliding it in, and it clicks right into place.

The location of the cap we were replacing was the upper back left, which made it a little tricky to reach back there and insert it, especially for a bigger guy like myself. We took the bottom rack out and my smaller wife was more easily able to lean in the dishwasher and reach back there to insert it.

With no wiring diagram, I was reduced to testing each component discreetly. The "Heated Dry - On/Off" rocker switch tested open in both switch positions. Replacement of it corrected the problem. I'd still love to see a wiring diagram to learn just where (and maybe why) in the circuit that silly switch interrupts current to the fill and pump-out solenoids. I would not recommend this repair without a wiring diagram for anyone unfamiliar with basic electricity and motor, solenoid, etc. operation.

First I opened the package and screwed the new dispenser cap into place.

Replaced lower rack with new. Upper rack removed front stoppers, removed old rack, slit new rack in and replaced stoppers. Total time about 15 mins.

pretty easy, take off 7 screws from inside door

only hard part was getting arm to click into lever through the door. if you practice with the parts outside the door they lock together really well :)

Watched a YouTube video description of the repair and ordered parts from this site

Flipped washer on side
Did repair from bottom
Really easy repair

I watched the video that came with email on part. Gave instructions on how to. Thank you !

Ordered most likely part...water inlet valve.

1. Turn off water supply.
2. Remove the metal toe kick plate/insulation at the bottom of the
dishwasher.
3. Remove hose to supply valve.
4. Take electrical plug off old valve.
5. Remove float valve because it was mounted it right in the way of
the 2 screws on the inlet valve bracket.
6. Remove those 2 screws now you can get to them, and move the
inlet valve to one side so you can get to the hose clamp for the
rubber hose out of the valve going to the dishwasher.
7, Take the old valve and bracket out, mount new valve on the
bracket, crawl back down on the floor, reinstall rubber hose and
bracket, and float valve and finally inlet hose.
8. Turn water on. Check hose connections for leaks. Yep, outlet
hose didn't clamp enough now, allowing a drip.
9. Repeat the whole process AGAIN. Replace little clamp
with a REAL hose clamp, reinstall the thing again. No leak this
time.
10. Test run dishwasher thru a cycle. Check again for leaks at hose
connections. OK ? Reinstall insulation pieces and toe kick
plate.

There's a video on youtube from this site on how to install spray arm and base. Great video. Great price

The part came in as ordered. After removing the dish rack, I loosened three 1/4" screws (two on the strainer basket and one at the base of the spray arm. I had to slide the rubber hose down and back to disconnect the base which I did by turning counter clockwise. The new one went in by reversing what I just described. Other than two of the screws being difficult to reach, everything worked fine.Thanks for your site.

Took old rack out put new rack

I took out the old one and put the new one in.