Models > GU980SCGQ3 > Instructions

GU980SCGQ3 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for GU980SCGQ3 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the GU980SCGQ3
46-60 of 380
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bottom rack was starting to rust away and we needed a new one

  • Customer: pat from muncy PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
The dishrack came in one box I opened the box snapped on the rollers and the bumpers and put it in the dishwasher, could not have been easier Thank you partselect

Latch broke on Dishwasher

  • Customer: Jim from St. Louis MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 9 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Had to pull the dishwashwer out to replace the latch. Did this by unscrewing the 2 screws that hold the Dishwashwer to the under side of the counter. Dishwasher then pulled out easily. Then unscrewed to screws on the latch. The screws were accessed by pulling out the modling/strip around the dishwasher door. Also easy to replace the screws. But sliding it back in was a little harder. Had to shorten the front legs on the dishwashwer to get the back of the dishwasher to go back in. Then screw the front legs back out. Finally re-inserted the screws under the counter that attached the top of the Dishwasher to the counter top.

dishwasher no thoroughly cleaning

  • Customer: Daniel from Chestertown MD
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
unscrewed sprayarm, removed bearing and seal, used PartSelect pic and description schematic to identify part numbers then placed order. Parts arrived in two or three days.

Water dripped out from the bottom of door.

  • Customer: Louis from Niceville FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Diagnosing the problem, i.e. finding the source of the leak, was the hardest part. The best clue was the leak only occurred well into the cycle when the water was hot and steam was coming out the vent. I then assumed there was a bad seal and steam & condensed water was leaking down into the door. I replaced the vent duct & seal, a broken drip cover (an internal part in the door), and replaced a missing rinse aid cap. This stopped the leak.

Steam venting past gasket causing short in switch at handle lock.

  • Customer: Edward from Sebastopol CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Removed inner cover of door. Pried Vent Assembly from door, peeled off thin sponge gasket strip from inner door, installed new thin sponge gasket strip on inner door vent opening bottom, snapped Vent Assembly into inner door opening, reinstalled inner door cover to door.
Recommend removing Vent screen from inner door first to expose locking tabs of Vent Assembly to ease removal and installation of Vent Assembly. I assume vent cover will come off if pried with small screw driver. I didn't remove vent cover and had difficulty removing and installing Vent Assembly. (I did accomplish it though)

the nut broke

  • Customer: Alison from Lochbuie CO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
screwed it in with my hands

dishwasher leaked

  • Customer: SHANE from Dunkirk NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
first i picked out the old seal, use a screwdriver to get it started. Then I pushed the new one in after cleaning the seal channel. I fixed it during a commercial while watching my favorite tv show.

Coating on the rack has worn exposing the metal underneath

  • Customer: Susan from Shelby Township MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
There were no instructions with the part, but looking at the old rack it was simple to see how the parts should be assembled. Took the center part from the old rack, twisted off, and applied it to the center of the new rack. Snapped on the wheels and was done. Very simple assembly.

O ring seal was streched out allowing a leak

  • Customer: Steve from Arley AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Removed 5 or 6 screws replaced O ring,Srewed cover back on ,no more leak.

The plastic disc which sprays the jet has snapped off. This is the disk with swirl pattern on the back face.

  • Customer: Mehdi from Cary NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
1) Removed the two white clips from the left and righ hand side of the top tray roller rail. this allows the tray to be completely removed and ease access to the washer assembly. The clipe looks like the letter "k", so you will need to close the "k" to almost straight line in order to get it through the hole.

2) Put a sheet or a towel at the bottom of the machine, just incase you drop the two small cross head screws. This prevents the screws from falling to the bottom of the machine.

3) Remove the screws. At this time the washer assembly will/should slip out very easily. very little force is required to pull the assmbely out.

4) Slip on the new washer assembly and put the screws back in place. Tighten screws, Be careful not over tighten the screw as you may crack the plastic flange.

Note: My machine is an older model, so the washer assembly had two screw fixing. The new assembly only had one hole. Although one fixing appeared to be sufficient, I decided to drill a hole on the other side and this worked fine.

5) Replace the top tray, taking some care to ensure rollers are correctly located within the rails. Then replace the clips and job's complete.

Peg on the mount where the upper washer arm broke.

  • Customer: Mark from Disputanta VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Removed 2 screws that held the old mount and washer arm in place, new mount was very easy to install, it snapped in, only one screw needed, remounted the washer arm and the job was done. I was really impressed with the ease of ordering and how quick it got here (3 days), also the scematics you have online are very helpful. I printed them out since I don't have the owners manual any longer, they're very helpful in matching up and ordering the right part which saves a lot of time, also I like the way you can just search by model number and appliance name to find the right parts, makes the entire process really easy. I know I will continue to shop here when the need arises. It really cuts down on expensive repair costs.

The bottom dishrack was having areas that were breaking off and showing rust.

  • Customer: Ed from Schofield WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
We took the rollers off the old one (new ones came with the dishrack also) and put them on the dishrack (they snapped on). There was also an extra piece that we figured out how to put on. Then slid it in place and it was fine.

Old valve failed and started to leak.

  • Customer: Adam from Minneapolis MN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled off the old valve using a crescent wrench and screw driver. The replacement part was a 100% exact match. Slapped on the new valve and that baby was water tight. $50 on a new valve is a lot better than $500 for a new washer.

Partselect.com was so easy to use and find the right part. Way more helpful than whirlpool's site, but that's not surprising seeing as they have an "authorized repair technician" page.

Thanks Partselect.com!

dishwasher was overflowing

  • Customer: paul from cambridge OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
actually my wife did the repair. she unsrewed the water sprayer and removed it, then unscrewd the star key screws and then replaced the seal. she put everything back the way it was and it is now ready to use and we no longer have the problem.
just a suggestion...if you take some baking soda and some vinager you can clean the drain out. just simply poor in the soda and then the vinager.and it will fiz cleaning your drain.

Broken clips

  • Customer: Ray from San Rafael CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
There were two somewhat difficult parts: identifying the correct clip (first time I got it wrong and had to reorder), and attaching the new clips in the proper orientation without breaking them.

The correct clips have a snap-in feature to hold a wire fence upright. Two tines of the fence snap into the clip, which attaches to the lateral wires in the upper basket.

To remove the broken clips, I pressed the flat blade of a large screwdriver against the open side of each, noting which wire each came from. I measured the distance between the two wires for the next step.

To install the new clips, I first attached them to the moveable fence. This is because (1) the clip has extremely complex geometery and it took a while to figure how it should be installed (I had no model because the old clips were completely destroyed) and (2) the notch for the fence is quite rigid on one side, and quite delicate on the other, and it took a bit of force to get the the thick bottom wire of the fence to seat properly without breaking the delicate part of the clip. There is no way to put the fence into the clip if you have first installed it onto the wire basket without breaking the clip because the beefy side is not flexible. I used the flat blade of the screwdriver on the beefy side and pinched the bottom of the fence into it with my thumb.

Each clip must straddle one of the tines of the fence, so the tine can swivel into the upper part of the clip to stand upright. This is definitiely a spatial relationship challenge and it took a few minutes of trial, error, and visualization to figure out. You must also be sure that the tines you select correspond to the distance between the two locations on the wire basket where they will attach.

Once the clips were on the fence, I rotated the fence so that the tines locked. Then I attached the clips to the basket, using the flat of the screwdriver blade and a steady pressure to snap it on.
All Instructions for the GU980SCGQ3
46-60 of 380