GU2700XTSS1 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

1.opened the door removed the two anchoring screws at the top of the dishwasher. 2.slid out the machine, layed it on its side on a towel for water spill. 3.unplugged the old motor. 4. used 1/4 inch ratchet with 6 inch extension and 3/8 inch socket, removed the mounting bolt. 5. twisted the motor clockwise approx. 1/4 turn and removed the old motor with impeller. 7. repeated reverse method to install.

Removed torx screws from rear of door. Openned door assembly and replaced board...very easy...about twenty minutes total. It's working fine and we're looking for years of additional service.

I cut the breaker and disconnected the in and out water lines, then removed the washer. Once on its side, I took it apart until I found what was broken. The chopper unit had broken and parts were sucked into the pump. After going online and finding/ordering all the parts, I cleaned everything and put it back together so as not to lose anything. When the parts came in,it was an easy job to replace the broken parts and have it back in use. The repair would have cost over $350 and my parts bill was less than $90. Thanks

remove top rack, discribed in video, removed bottom spinner,removed water channel to top, removed screwes in screen in bottom, removed 1 screw above chopper ass, used neadle nose plyers to remove chopper, rember to compress chopper spring to install. installed in reverse order..

Removed about 8 screws. (Needed a "star" screwdriver for the screws.) Pulled the front panel off. It was stuck in places to the foam sound deadening instulation sheet, but taking the putty knife and sliding between insulation and old front worked pretty well. A couple of large pieces of foam cracked off, but once the front was off, I just used duct take and put them back together, then put on new front. One thought....if you want the old nameplate, which in my case was "KitchenAide" it would have been best to lay the old front on top of the new front to see where the holes needed to be drilled in the new front, and put the branded plate on before installing the new front. The name plate had two screws as part of the molded nameplate, which passed through the front and were held on with two friction nuts on the "inside" of the front. It isn't really needed, but it breaks up the solid front and looks nice. However, in my case, I didn't think to do that. So.....I cut the screws off with a hacksaw, smoothed the back with a file, and used epoxy to glue it on the new front once it was on. The epoxy seems to be holding just fine.

Cleaned area around food chopper. Replaced food chopper.

Removed the screws under the counter, retracted the leveling bolt jacks, turned off power to unit, turned off water supply to unit and made sure that all the water was out of the unit. Disconnect supply and drain lines. slide out unit from under counter and put protection over the door then lay it over onto the door. unplug the motor remove the screw that holds the motor in place, turn the motor counterclock wise, wiggle the motor in a side to side motion and it will come right out.(GLOVES ARE RECOMENDED FOR THIS OPERATION). Use cooking spray or olive oil on the O-ring. line up the arrow on the pump housing with the arrow on the pump motor and put the unit back together in the reverse order. Test the unit with a operation of a quick rinse to check of leaks. This is a very easy repair.

I wanted to replace the black door panel with stainless steel to match our other appliances. The part ordered came quickly and in perfect condition. I removed the ten panel screws easily with a torx screwdriver and installed the new panel in about ten minutes. No problems!

Removed unit from counter. Replaced element.

I remodeled my kitchen with new cabinets. In order to better utilize cabinet space, I located the dishwasher away from the sink, which means that I had to have a longer drain hose. The store I purchased the dishwasher from didn't have a longer hose, so I went online and found it on this website. Thanks for the quick shipment. I ordered it using standard delivery and received it in less than three days. I have book marked this website for future use.

turned off water supply, removed front lower cover, disconnected main water feed, removed retaining screw, removed fill valve assembly, disconnected electrical connector, removed flex line from valve to dishwasher. Reverse order for installation of new valve

Very easy fix; simply opened the door and took out the dozen or so screws holding the door cover on. From there, just (carefully) unplug the dispenser from the wiring harness, remove the 6 screws holding the dispenser in place, and reverse the process to install the new one.

The dishwasher made a loud grinding sound when it ran. We looked at new dishwashers and they're still basically the same, but the $$$ is so high. We looked at the reports PartSelect.com and after reading the reports, decided it was the pump motor/impeller unit and ordered it online. FIRST, read all the other installation stories. It will save you time. You will save unnecessary steps. In the end, it wasn't actually as bad as it sounded. So, here are the steps I took to install the new pump motor with impeller unit. ONE: turn off the water supply TWO: turn off the power (I had a dedicated circuit breaker just for the dishwasher)THREE: disconnect the water supply at the pipe(not the dishwasher) FOUR: Disconnect the drain hose at the drain(not the diswasher)FIVE: remove whatever screws are holding the unit inside the base cabinet SIX: pull out the diswasher(carefully watch the wires, hoses and insulation) SEVEN: tip the dishwasher forward (lay it on rags, watch for water)EIGHT: Disconnect the electrical supply plug to the pump (it's a plug-type connection, squeeze the edges to release)NINE: remove the one bolt holding the motor on the pump assembly and the heat sheild(you'll need a ratchet with extension) TEN: turn the pump motor counter-clockwise and pull it off. ELEVEN: align the arrows on the new motor of the pump and mounting assembly. TWELEVE: clean the o-ring on the pump and lubriate with drying agent THIRTEEN: place the motor on the pump assembly rotated counter clock-wise a bit past the bolt hole and press until it seats. FOURTEEN: turn the motor clock-wise to engage the locking mechanism and align the bolt hole. FIFTEEN: replace the bolt and heat shield. SIXTEEN:reconnect the power plug SEVENTEEN: tip-up the dishwasher, slide the unit back under the cabinet. EIGHTEEN: reconnect the drain, water, and power. NINETEEN: turn-on the water and restore the power TWENTY: test(start a wash cycle) the unit to be sure it doesn't leak. TWENTY: if all is good, replace screws holding the dishwsher in the cabinet(otherwise you will have to back-track to find your error - I didn't). And that's it! Now it's running smooth and silent, just as before. Good luck!

Removed door cover (six screws), removed dispenser (six star screws), installed new dispenser, replaced door cover. Being 76 years old didn't hinder the project. Replaced dispenser latch that had come out of removed dispenser, thus making the removed dispenser useable again as a backup. Would recommend trying to repair dispenser before ordering new part.

A power surge blew out a number of my appliances, including the dishwasher. I have a stainless steel KitchenAid model. Getting to the control panel was a bit difficult. The entire front panel had to come off. Once I did that, and get a look at the control board and bi-metal fuse, I saw that the fuse had blown (turned black) and part of the control board was black as well. So, it was back on-line to PartSelect to order a electronic control board. Once that arrived (in 2 days...shipping was really fast for both parts), I installed the control board and followed the instructions for installing the bi-metal fuse. There were no instructions on how to install the control board. But it's really self-explanitory! I took a picture of the board before disconnecting it to make sure I plug the same wires into the same ports. I then saw that the control board has color labels for the wires: brown, purple, blue, etc. All-in-all, it was REALLY EASY to replace both these parts. Once I completed the install, I plugged the dishwasher back into the recepticle and started a wash cycle. It worked just like new. All-in-all, it was REALLY EASY to replace these parts. It cost be about $180 for both parts. I'm sure if I called in a repair person, the cost would've been 3-times that!