Models > GU2700XTSB1 > Instructions

GU2700XTSB1 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for GU2700XTSB1 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the GU2700XTSB1
76-90 of 446
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Pulverized food particles were being left on the dishes in the top rack

  • Customer: nanette from Bronx NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
FIRST I TURNED OFF THE POWER GOING TO THE MACHINE!!!! Then I removed the top rack by removing the (2) end caps on the front of the rack glides first then lifting the rack upwards and out. Next I removed the bottom rack which slid out easily. I then removed the lower spray arm that was held in place by the plastic turn-screw portion of the lower spray arm support/hub. I turned the screw a few times and the spray arm was released. I then released the feed tube assembly that was held in place by (2) clips; one clip was on the back panel of the tub (above the probe area) and the other clip was on the top panel of the tub (before the upper arm spray). Then I turned the entire tube feed assembly a quarter turn to the right so that it was possible to separate/unsnap it from the feed cap on the bottom. After the feed tube was moved away I was able to access all (4) screws that holds the accumulator in place. I used an allen wrench to remove those. After the accumulator was removed I saw two screws that was holding the 2-part protective cover of the chopper assembly. The small cover came out easily, the round cover took a little jiggling and fussing until I figured out how to pop it out. The chopper was revealed when the cover came off and I found it to be very warn and a bit bent. I pulled it out by pulling it upwards and forward towards me. At this time I also removed the valve check. To my surprise it didn't look like the one that I bougth to replace it. It was missing the round disk portion. I fished around thinking it may have somehow fallen off, but I didn't find anything. I put the new one in, disk-side down. I then put the chopper assembly in place and put everything back together again. I'm not 100% sure that it is completely back to normal. It seems to leave significantly less debris than before, but I noticed that there is more water on the bottom of the basin now. So it may not have been my only problem. If anyone has experienced the same thing I would really like to know

Dishwasher wouldn't heat water or dry dishes

  • Customer: Philip from Sugar Land TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnected the power and hot water supply.
Removed mounting screws under the counter, and the lower panel screws to expose the leveling screws.
Backed the leveling screws up so that the unit would slide out more easily
Walked the unit out to where I could reach the back side.
Disconnected the two power wires from the heater coil (slide off)
Unscrewed the plastic nuts holding the heater in place and removed the heater coil.
Replaced the heater coil and nuts.
Reversed the process above to install.

water not heating

  • Customer: Raymond from Palmer AK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
The repair was easy. Getting the unit to slide out from under the counter was more time consuming.
After water and power is disconnected, tip the unit over onto one side to gain access to bottom. Look for two white composite plastic posts (insulators) about 2" long each with a single wire inside. Remove the two wire connectors then unscrew the insulators from the old heating element using an adjustable wrench. Inside the box remove the two metal element supports and pull out the old element. Clean and dry the area in and around the openings where the new element will be re-inserted. Carefully place the new element into the holes with the included new rubber washers. Re-install the two metal element supports on the inside of box. On the bottom, re-install the two insulators to the ends of the element, do not to tighten too much to avoid over compressing the rubber washers which could cause premature cracking. Reconnect both wires and check continuity from the door mircro-switch (white-violet) lead to the (white-red) lead on Electronic Controller connector #1 (P6). The circuit thru the element should be good if the Multimeter reads 10-35 ohms. Put the unit securely back under the counter and run a test wash. Works fine now.
I do recommend, if don't know how to use a multimeter or are concerned about accessing the electronic control box; contact a professional.

I did not lock the cap good enough and it fell off and melted

  • Customer: Crystal from Stansbury Park UT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I just placed the cap back on, it worked great, fit fine and so glad I found this part. I was thinking of ways to McGyver it, thinking it would be impossible to find a new part. Glad i fount this site and the part.

Heater element had shorted out and began to smoke

  • Customer: James from McCordsville IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I released the heater element from the clips on the bottom of the waaher tub. I pulled the unit out from the wall and disconnected power. There are two slip on wire terminals on each end of the heater element accessible from the back that need to be removed. One of them was badly rusted from leaking water, which had caused the short, and had to be replaced. These terminals and the crimping tool to install them are available at any home center. I removed and discarded the old plastic nuts since one of them was damaged by arching from the short circuit. Moving around to the front of the dishwasher, I removed the old heater and installed the new one. I had ordered new rubber washers, but the new heater came with them already installed. Since one of the old ones failed and caused the leak, they are a good thing to keep around as spares anyway. I installed the new nuts and tightened them to enough to ensure that the washers made a good seal. I reconnected the wire terminals to the heater, reconnected power and moved the unit back into place. The circuit opening when the heater failed caused a "call for service" error and the controller would not allow the unit to run. You will know you have this by the "CLEAN" LED flashing seven times. Clear the diagnostics by pressing the buttons for "HEATED DRY", "NORMAL", "HEATED DRY", "NORMAL" and after the controller resets, the dishwaher is ready to run. It's worked like new ever since.

Dishwasher would not start, no lights.

  • Customer: Stephen from Water Mill NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I watched the video identifying the part and the procedure to make sure I could handle this. The phone attendant was also very helpful in making sure I ordered the correct part,which arrived in one day (amazingly). Everything was clearly described in the instructions and if you have done electrical work this would be relatively easy. You will need a specific screw driver bit to open the control panel but everything else is straightforward, just follow the instructions. Works perfectly now (I needed a new control panel about a year ago and Kenmore charged me $229 but it was just over a year since then....) PartSelect is a great service!

Upper Dishrack and tines rusting out

  • Customer: Karen from Great Falls VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
My KitchenAid dishwasher's upper dishrack had several places that were completing rusting out, just leaving the skins of the plastic coating in place. I ordered the upper dishrack - just the dishrack, none of the clips or other items shown in the schematic - and installed it pretty easily. One caution - this is JUST the upper dishrack. If you have two rows of tines that are clipped in and flip-flop back and forth on the left and right wider sides of the rack, you will need to order one or two pieces of part # PS 898500 as well. One of my tine rows was in salvageable shape, so I only needed to order one (in a second order upon discovering I it wasn't included). It wasn't difficult to figure out how the clips could come out and snap back in place. Just be careful, know that these are just plastic items and can break easily.

Not cleaning well, Top spray arm not spinning. Chopper not turning

  • Customer: Steven from Phoenix AZ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnected power to dishwasher. Removed water supply hose from inlet water valve.
Removed lower and upper racks. Removed Lower spray arm. Removed tube from pump tp top spinner. Pulled dishwasher from under cabinet (remember to tip to get back out!). Placed dishwasher on its back. Removed electrical connectors from water valve, main motor and drain motor. Removed drain hose from drain pump. Removed pump/motor assy by pulling out wedges and pushing assembly into dishwasher. Removed pump/motor assy from inside dishwasher. Cleaned out pump. Installed new chopper. Re-install pump/motor assy. Re-install driain pump hose. Re-connect the pumps and water valve electric connectors. Slide dishwasher near cabinet for re-install. Re-connect drain hose to dishwasher. Re-install dishwasher under cabinet.Reconnect water supply. Removed top spinner from tube. Installed new spinner onto tube. Re-install tube onto main pump (below lower spray arm). Clean out and re-install lower spray arm. Remove middle spray arm from top rack. Clean out spray arm. Re-install spray arm with a new gasket (gasket may have not been needed). Re-installed lower and top racks. Re-connect power supply. Position all three spray arms pointing towards the door to confirm they were turning. Tested dishwasher - confirmed fill, wash, and drain properly. Also confirmed that all three spray arms were turning. Machine is washing, draining and running great since!

front seal on the old pump failed causing the front bearing to get wet repeatedly and fail

  • Customer: lisa from columbus NE
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Removed required hardware and dishwasher from undercounter mount. Turned dishwasher on its front and removed the old motor. Installed the new motor and tested for function. Installed once test was successful.

motor making a load noise

  • Customer: Kenneth from Houston TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
pull out the dishwasher
lay it on its side
use a 1/4" drive socket with extension and a universal joint to undo the the hidden bolt,
twist the motor 1/4 turn. this is the hard part you have to pull fairly hard and rock the motor around a little to get the o-ring to let the motor slide out.
lube up the new motor with jet dry or soap and insert back it, turn it back 1/4 turn, install the bolt and plug the motor control wires back in, then reinstall it back under the counter

The motor was too loud

  • Customer: Conelis from Eclectic AL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I took the unit apart to find out what was making the loud noise and found the seal on the main pump had been leaking ito the bearing on the motor.

Dispensing cap came off during washing

  • Customer: HELEN L from BALTIMORE MD
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Simply made sure the cap was securely in place.

Leaking water drops from the Water inlet Valve.

  • Customer: james from gastonia NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the video directions on line...they were exactly to the point to do the repair.

The Dishwasher had a no power symptom

  • Customer: Robert from Westminster CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I researched the internet about this symptom on the Kenmore Elite Dishwasher and I found lots of people with the same problem. Everyone fixed it by replacing the Bi-Metal Fuse. I removed the old fuse and tested continuity and it was indeed bad. Once the new fuse arrived I tested continuity and it of course worked as expected, so that was a nice wipe of the brow. The new Bi-Metal Fuse came with a nice instruction manual. I also used a video from YouTube to help with the repair as well, but the included instructions were enough. The only thing that was not clear was the best way to attach the new wire since it was quite a bit longer than what was orginially there. So I ended up just folding it up and putting everything back together and it worked just fine. This repair was very easy as long as you are OK with cutting and stripping wires in a somewhat confined space and not being too worried that you might mess it up for good... :)

My Dishwasher was making a heck of a noise.

  • Customer: John from Ripon CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnected Power, Turned off water valve, disconnected drain return line, disconnected water line, removed two screws on inside-top that was mounted to counter, pulled out dishwasher while feeding power cord, drain line, water line. Turned Dishwasher on it's side and disconnected water line and water fill line from Fill valve Assembly. Disconnected power connector from Valve. Removed one screw from Fill valve assembly and removed Fill valve assembly.
Installed Fill valve assembly and screwed screw back in. Installed Water line and water fill line from valve. Snapped power connector back in. Doubled checked Fill Valve connections to make sure they were tight. Slide Dishwasher back in while lines and power back through to under sink. Made sure Dishwasher was set in place and mounted two screws to counter. Connected water line to water valve and connected discharge line back to it's location. Turn water back on. Plug power back in.
Turned unit on and checked for leaks at the fill Valve assembly, water line and discharge tube.
Saved ~ $ 100.00. Easy job. I wished I didn't wait so long when it was making the noise for so long...Good luck..
All Instructions for the GU2700XTSB1
76-90 of 446