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Models > GU2400XTPS3 > Instructions

GU2400XTPS3 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for GU2400XTPS3 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the GU2400XTPS3
31-45 of 522
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Drain hose was leaking.

  • Customer: Jason from Lugoff, SC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 26 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
Switched circuit breaker off.
Removed kick panel.
Removed the dishwasher from counter.
Disconnected drain hose from the pee trap.
Disconnected drain hose from pump.
Installed new drain hose.
Reinstalled dishwasher in counter.
Connected hose at the pee trap.
Turned power back on. test for leaks by running a cycle.
Reinstalled kick panel.

Detergent / Rinse Dispenser did not function. Detergent door would not close

  • Customer: Pamela from Saint Peters, MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 22 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
Replacing the actual part was easy. Getting to it was the slightly difficult part. Here's how it went:
Remove the torex type screws surrounding the inner door - this was the easiest part. The screws came right out, but be careful. Removing the screws near the top (was controls) part will release the seaparate top part. Once you do that, it's only held by wiring, and you don't want that to break, so treat this part with care.
Remove the bolt screws holding the outer door to the inner door - so the inner white door containing the dispenser to be replaced, and the outer door separate, but are held together by these bolt screws. You need to remove these to separate the doors further giving you easier access to the dispenser. Some of these bolt screws were in challenging positions to reach.
Disconnect dispenser wiring and replace part - Remember where the wires go, so mark them before removing them. The part is held in by 6 bolt screws. Once removed, the part easily came out. Pop the new one in, screw the bolts in, plug the wiring back up.
Put all parts mentioned previously back together.

Now even though we gave the correct model # of our unit, the part sent did not match 100% what we replaced. There was an extra wire plugged to ours. The connector to plug it to does not exist on the new part. My assumption is this wire is for detection of rinse agent (illuminates a ligth on the front panel if empty) - so we just left this unplugged. The new part has a manual, visual gauge on it anyway which I prefer, so this was not a big deal. This is just warning for others that do this kind of thing.

All in all, it was a well worth it repair. $50 as opposed to $500 for a new unit and installation. We will definitely be looking to this site again for items we feel can be repaired. THANK YOU!

Dishwasher stopped working, 2" of water in bottom of tub, no lights on control panel.

  • Customer: GLENN from CLIFTON PARK, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 23 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
Checked main house circuit breaker to ensure not tripped - was OK. Removed dishwasher lower kick panel to access 120 main feed (make sure main circuit breaker is OFF!) to ensure had 120 volts to unit - OK. Removed upper control panel (6 screws) to access main control board and main fuse. Checked fuse for continuity - no continuity, blown fuse. Continue to inspect main "Control Circuit Board". Found burn marks from over heating on main circuit board at 4 pin connector (tan wire that goes to one of the two door switches). Replaced main circuit board and fuse. Ohm checked heating element to ensure within specs (10-30 ohms) - OK. Cleaned up burned connector by removing terminal CARFEFULLY and cleaned with wire brush. Checked continuity/ohm's of both door switches (should be close to 0 ohms) and cleaned terminals at both door switches to ensure good contact. Reassembled unit, restored power at main house breaker, loaded dishwasher and ran unit through normal cycle. All worked like new! TIP - ensure main water feed coming from spigot is minimum 120 degrees, per manufacturer, as this will aid in shorter cycle times and reduce energy consumption. PLEASE USE CAUTION WHEN PERFORMING THIS TASK AS 120 VOLTS IS DANGEROUS!

Dishes wouldn't dry

  • Customer: George from Lisbon, CT
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 24 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
I shut off the power to the dishwasher, then I removed the front panel under the door. On the right side just behind the electrical box there are two wires going up to the hi-limit thermostat, (you may need a small mirror to see it), remove one screw that is holding the thermostat bracket, unplug the wires from the old thermostat and install new one. Screw bracket and thermostat back to the underside of the dishwasher, reinstall the front panel, turn on the power, done.

Dishes were not getting clean / Low Water Pressure

  • Customer: Greg from Virginia Beach, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 19 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Started as dishes not getting clean and I observed that the top arm was not spinning and there was very low water pressure coming out of the jets. After making sure the water level was up to the bottom of the heating element and making sure the jets were not clogged I checked the filter and chopper. It was a little tough to get the cover off of the chopper but once I did I could see that the chopper scraper was broken off and the shaft was broken. The screen was all clogged up with stuff. Ordered a new assembly and put it in making sure to compress the spring and make sure the gears lined up. Now it is running great.
I think the Kitchenaid is the same as the Whirlpools.

Water leak / minor hard to find

  • Customer: Gus from hayward, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Wrench set
  • 20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
First: Turn power to the Dish washer OFF, then remove the two panels at the bottom of the dishwasher.
Two: remove the Door face panel for easier access to the inlet-Valve.
Three: remove screw that holds Inlet-valve bracket.
Four: slide Inlet valve bracket left and back to get out of slots.
Five: Holding the Inlet-valve forward loosen and remove water line (copper tube nut / pressure fitting).
Six: Remove two wire clips
Seven: Remove platics hose (Spring Clamp)
Replace Inlet-Valve and reverse process///

Dishwasher Quit Running On The Pressure Side (Pump Motor Went Bad).

  • Customer: JACK from HARDIN, MT
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off water and disconnected line, then disconnected drain, turned off power and slid dishwasher out and turned turned upside down and removed hold down bolt ( it is a 3/8 head bolt) removed wire from motor and twisted motor assembly approximately 1/4 turn counter clock wise and removed old motor and seal assembly reinstalled new motor with new seal and rewired. Turned washer back upright and removed filter assembly and lower jet arm, removed cover for food disposal and reinstalled disposal blade back on pump drive reinstalled cover and filter assembly and jet arm. Slid unit back in place and anchored down to cabinet and turned water and power back on ran washer through a short cycle to clean any soap build up that was left inside and that was it, it all works just like new.

Dishwasher basin would fill and then dishwater would shut off. The water was not pumping into the cleaning showers.

  • Customer: James from Old Town, ME
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
To empty the water in the dishwater basin, I pushed the cancel button and closed the door. I then turned the electrical breaker to the off position that supplies electricity to the dishwasher. I confirmed the power was off by attempting to start the dishwaser. I removed the metal plate between the dishwater door and the floor by removing the two screws. I removed the two screws that connect the top of the dishwasher to the underside of the countertop. I shut the water valve that supplies hot water to the dishwasher (mine was located under the sink). I disconnected the drain hose (plastic) by using pliers to loosen the clamp the holds the hose on the outlet of the drain pump (drain pump is much smaller than the pump that needed replacement). A towell is handy to soak up the water that comes out the hoses. I loosened the nut on the water supply hose (this was difficult because of lack of room)using a wrench and pliers. I opened the door on the metal box that houses the wire nuts for the electrical connection to dishwater, and I removed the wire nuts and the screw for the ground wire. Once the white, black, and gound wires were disconnected, I could pull the dishwater out. I also had to pull the drain hose out from the clips on the side of the washer to pull the dishwasher out into the middle of the kitchen floor. I flipped the dishwasher on its back. I removed the single bolt that held the broken pump motor to the dishwasher, and then the motor twisted counterclockwise and I pulled it out. The pump shaft would not turn freely with my pliers, so I knew the motor was broken. I removed the pump end (impeller) from the dishwasher by tapping it with my screwdriver. The impeller end came out along with a metal screen. The metal screen was 50% plugged, so I cleaned it and put it back in place. I wet the gasket on the new pump motor and slid it back in place while rotating clockwise and locking it in place with the tabs. I replaced the bolt that holds the motor in place and reversed the repair procedure to re-install the dishwasher. Be sure to run the dishwasher and look for any leaks. The last step is to replace the metal plate between the floor and door. While I had the dishwasher pulled out, I discovered another problem with the pulleys and strings that prevent the heavy door from flopping down, but I won't include this repair. The pump and motor must have been failing for some time because the dishwasher is much quieter now and the dishwasher is much faster. I am sure the plugged screen didn't help either.

Removed & Replaced Detergent Dispenser

  • Customer: Raymond from Lancaster, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Via your web-site I was able to download the step-by-step screen-shot pictures. I was really surprised on how easy the detailed photo screen shots made the repair really easy! Thanks for making this repair a piece of cake. If I should ever need additional parts for any of my home appliances I will certainly order my parts through PartSelect.

Scratches in Surface

  • Customer: Michelle from Richardson, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 20 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Stopped Running,Will Not Start, and Clean LED Blinks 7 times then repeats

  • Customer: Deb from LaPorte, IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 18 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
Got Maintenance Flyer out an read about problem
Removed access plate
Disconnectd water and drain
Removed anchor screws
Pulled unit out and disconnedted from Electric
Flipped on it's back
Ohmed out all heat related items and found discrepency with Thermisitor resistance
Ordered and received Part
Changed out Thermisitor
Checked wiring to Heater and replaced connections
Hooked electric up
Ran Diognostics per Maintenance flyer and cleared fault
Hooked back up and ran like a champ

The reason it took so long is because I put the old thermisitor back in and tryed to run the diognostics just to make sure that was the problem

No power

  • Customer: Scott from Chisago City, MN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced electronic control panel first which had an obvious defect (burned terminal). Still no power. Replaced fuse and works fine now. Took lots of reading to find out the dishwasher had a replacable fuse. Even the appliance store didn't know.

Pump Motor not working

  • Customer: GLENN from CHEPACHET, RI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
1, I shut off ac circuit breaker.
2.Shut off water supply valve.
3.disconnected water line from inlet valve.
4. disconnect the drainage hose.
5. have plenty of towels to mop up water.
6. Remove racks and disconnect water diverters inside the tub.
7. remove phillips head screws that hold dish washer to counter.
8, Pull out DW and lay on its side to expose bottom of dishwasher. disconnect the motor terminal plug. and disconnect the temp prope.
9. disconnect the drainage tube and then proceed to remove the 3 plastic clips that hold the pump housing to the tub.
10. I used some silcone grease around the new pump housing to be safe. then I installed the new pump housing and motor in the reverse order.

It probally took me about an hour start to finish, the hardest part was placing new housing back in. The ring around the bottom of tub is very sharp!
Left some blood there.

Dated Front Panel

  • Customer: Paul from Lubbock, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
We recently installed all new stainless steel appliances, and were considering replacing the dishwasher as well (4 yr. old Kenmore, in good condition, energy star compliant, etc.). We decided to try to find a stainless front panel instead, and Kenmore said for that model they only came in black and white. But after calling Parts Select, they cross indexed our Kenmore model with a Whirlpool model that did come in stainless, and we simply ordered that front panel. The panel fit perfectly, only requiring the removal of 10 screws, and taking the insulation foam from the old panel and installing it in the new, then replacing the screws. Very simple, and economical, fix for our problem. Thanks Parts Select!

Would not dry dishes

  • Customer: David from Arab, AL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off power, turned off water supply and diconnected, slid out dishwasher. Removed the spray wand and tilted dishwasher to access the two nuts and disconnet the wires. Removed the two nuts using a socket. Removed the old heating element and replaced with the new one secured with new nuts ( the old ones were fine but since I bought two new ones why not). Pluged the wires back up slid the dishwasher back in hooked up the water reinstalled the spray wand cut on the water and power. Good as new.
All Instructions for the GU2400XTPS3
31-45 of 522