Models > GU1200XTLS3 > Instructions

GU1200XTLS3 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for GU1200XTLS3 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the GU1200XTLS3
76-90 of 518
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quit pumping water

  • Customer: Robert from West Middlesex PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the dishwasher from under the counter. This took the bulk of the repair time along with disconnecting the water supply and electrical connection. I had enough slack in drain hoses that I could turn the dishwasher over to replace the motor. I was surprised that there was only one bolt that held the motor in place. I put the motor on, turned the dishwasher upright and slide it back unde the counter and began the long process ofreconnecting everything. I am sureit could have gone faster if I were younger and did not need glasses for close work. Start to finish took me four hours. This was the fourth time I have replaced motors in dishwashers of various makes.

Broken wheels on upper dw rack

  • Customer: Susan from Hanson MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
My 2 parts were delivered very quickly. We had been putting off the repair, mainly because any time you hire a capable repair man, the charge to "walk through the door"is very high. I actually thought about buying a new DW for this reason . . . Then I googleD PARTS, And was lucky to find PARTS SELECT. I was most impressed with the graph layout of the parts, which enables the buyer to actually measure the part being replaced to be sure the correct item is being ordered. The instructions were excellent, and this grandmother took care of the repair, easily.

Dishwasher would not start

  • Customer: James from Norwich CT
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Upon replacing the circuit card I found that one of the connectors was burnt. I fixed the connector and installed the new card, but it itermittantly still does not work. I think that the micro switch may be defective.

dishwasher wasn't cleaning well

  • Customer: Robert from Katy TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled everything out the front, and dug down to find a thrashed chopper assembly (like a little garbage disposal). The previous owner just tossed anything in; pop tops, plastic cutlery, etc.
Didn't pay attention to the exact installation of the chopper as I pulled it out, but, it turns out that it only goes in one way.
Used pictures and instructions I found online as a guide and didn't have any issues.
Replaced the check valve because it isn't expensive and I was in the neighborhood.

clean light flashing 7 times would not run

  • Customer: Mark from Winchester VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
removed screws holding dishwasher to counter top,raised leveling pads,pulled dishwasher out, unplugged wiring,removed hold down nuts from inside dishwasher and installed new heater element, this was all easy the hard part was finding the code to reset the dishwasher there was no paperwork inside the dishwasher although there was an empty plastic holder.The code that worked for my model was with the door open to push the normal wash button then the high temp button three times as fast as you can within four seconds then close the door. It worked and reset the dishwasher which ran a short cycle then shut down as normal and is now working fine.After doing this select the beverage of your choice and relax. Hope this helps someone.

dishwasher would not work

  • Customer: gregory from winston salem NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
First- unplug dishwasher.

I replace the circuit board by removing the 6 top screws on the door, I needed to gain access to the inside of the door. unplugged the wiring harness, removed old board, replaced with new and connected the harness correctly, reattached the screws.

Plugged the dishwasher back up to the power and it now works!

bones inside locked motor up and burned it out

  • Customer: Dawn from New Richmond WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
disconect water supply and drain hose, unscrew 2 screws hoding front of dishwasher to countertop, slide dischwasher out so you can tip on its door and remove 1 screw hidden behind plastic shield and pull motor out install in reverse order.

Dishwasher wouldn't heat water or dry dishes

  • Customer: Philip from Sugar Land TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnected the power and hot water supply.
Removed mounting screws under the counter, and the lower panel screws to expose the leveling screws.
Backed the leveling screws up so that the unit would slide out more easily
Walked the unit out to where I could reach the back side.
Disconnected the two power wires from the heater coil (slide off)
Unscrewed the plastic nuts holding the heater in place and removed the heater coil.
Replaced the heater coil and nuts.
Reversed the process above to install.

water not heating

  • Customer: Raymond from Palmer AK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
The repair was easy. Getting the unit to slide out from under the counter was more time consuming.
After water and power is disconnected, tip the unit over onto one side to gain access to bottom. Look for two white composite plastic posts (insulators) about 2" long each with a single wire inside. Remove the two wire connectors then unscrew the insulators from the old heating element using an adjustable wrench. Inside the box remove the two metal element supports and pull out the old element. Clean and dry the area in and around the openings where the new element will be re-inserted. Carefully place the new element into the holes with the included new rubber washers. Re-install the two metal element supports on the inside of box. On the bottom, re-install the two insulators to the ends of the element, do not to tighten too much to avoid over compressing the rubber washers which could cause premature cracking. Reconnect both wires and check continuity from the door mircro-switch (white-violet) lead to the (white-red) lead on Electronic Controller connector #1 (P6). The circuit thru the element should be good if the Multimeter reads 10-35 ohms. Put the unit securely back under the counter and run a test wash. Works fine now.
I do recommend, if don't know how to use a multimeter or are concerned about accessing the electronic control box; contact a professional.

Pulverized food particles were being left on the dishes in the top rack

  • Customer: nanette from Bronx NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
FIRST I TURNED OFF THE POWER GOING TO THE MACHINE!!!! Then I removed the top rack by removing the (2) end caps on the front of the rack glides first then lifting the rack upwards and out. Next I removed the bottom rack which slid out easily. I then removed the lower spray arm that was held in place by the plastic turn-screw portion of the lower spray arm support/hub. I turned the screw a few times and the spray arm was released. I then released the feed tube assembly that was held in place by (2) clips; one clip was on the back panel of the tub (above the probe area) and the other clip was on the top panel of the tub (before the upper arm spray). Then I turned the entire tube feed assembly a quarter turn to the right so that it was possible to separate/unsnap it from the feed cap on the bottom. After the feed tube was moved away I was able to access all (4) screws that holds the accumulator in place. I used an allen wrench to remove those. After the accumulator was removed I saw two screws that was holding the 2-part protective cover of the chopper assembly. The small cover came out easily, the round cover took a little jiggling and fussing until I figured out how to pop it out. The chopper was revealed when the cover came off and I found it to be very warn and a bit bent. I pulled it out by pulling it upwards and forward towards me. At this time I also removed the valve check. To my surprise it didn't look like the one that I bougth to replace it. It was missing the round disk portion. I fished around thinking it may have somehow fallen off, but I didn't find anything. I put the new one in, disk-side down. I then put the chopper assembly in place and put everything back together again. I'm not 100% sure that it is completely back to normal. It seems to leave significantly less debris than before, but I noticed that there is more water on the bottom of the basin now. So it may not have been my only problem. If anyone has experienced the same thing I would really like to know

Dated Front Panel

  • Customer: Paul from Lubbock TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
We recently installed all new stainless steel appliances, and were considering replacing the dishwasher as well (4 yr. old Kenmore, in good condition, energy star compliant, etc.). We decided to try to find a stainless front panel instead, and Kenmore said for that model they only came in black and white. But after calling Parts Select, they cross indexed our Kenmore model with a Whirlpool model that did come in stainless, and we simply ordered that front panel. The panel fit perfectly, only requiring the removal of 10 screws, and taking the insulation foam from the old panel and installing it in the new, then replacing the screws. Very simple, and economical, fix for our problem. Thanks Parts Select!

Heater element had shorted out and began to smoke

  • Customer: James from McCordsville IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I released the heater element from the clips on the bottom of the waaher tub. I pulled the unit out from the wall and disconnected power. There are two slip on wire terminals on each end of the heater element accessible from the back that need to be removed. One of them was badly rusted from leaking water, which had caused the short, and had to be replaced. These terminals and the crimping tool to install them are available at any home center. I removed and discarded the old plastic nuts since one of them was damaged by arching from the short circuit. Moving around to the front of the dishwasher, I removed the old heater and installed the new one. I had ordered new rubber washers, but the new heater came with them already installed. Since one of the old ones failed and caused the leak, they are a good thing to keep around as spares anyway. I installed the new nuts and tightened them to enough to ensure that the washers made a good seal. I reconnected the wire terminals to the heater, reconnected power and moved the unit back into place. The circuit opening when the heater failed caused a "call for service" error and the controller would not allow the unit to run. You will know you have this by the "CLEAN" LED flashing seven times. Clear the diagnostics by pressing the buttons for "HEATED DRY", "NORMAL", "HEATED DRY", "NORMAL" and after the controller resets, the dishwaher is ready to run. It's worked like new ever since.

blinking light above cancel button

  • Customer: Damion from Plant City FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the electronic control board,

Latch on dispenser cracked so it did not close properly.

  • Customer: Robert from Califon NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Took me longer to find my tools than to do the repair. DId have to call the PartSelect 800 # while making repair but woman there read to me a note in their system about a redesign of the replacement part that explained exactly my question. She was VERY helpful. I will not be calling the appliance repairman again!

Dishwasher wouldn't drain; pump drain impeller had come off drive shaft.

  • Customer: Harry from Hampden MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced the pump drain as one complete assembly. Couldn't do it from under the front panel as there is a small lug that you have to depress on the top of the assembly before you can twist the assembly counter-clockwise by hand. I tried but I couln't get the leverage. Had to take dishwasher out from under the unit and tip it on its side. The rest was very straightforward. If you can remove the dishwasher from under the unit easily I would suggest you don't even bother trying to change the pump drain while the dishwasher is in place. It's not worth the hassle.
All Instructions for the GU1200XTLS3
76-90 of 518