GT1826PEKQ Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the ice maker from the refrigerator, by removing one screw on the underside bracket and loosening the two screws at the top side, then lifting the ice maker off the loosened screws. I then unplugged the electrical harness that supplies power from the refrigerator to the ice maker. I then disassembled the ice maker by removing the front cover which is snapped in place, then removing two recessed screws at the front. I removed the broken part, I then reassembled the ice maker with the new part. I replaced the two recessed screws at the front and snapped on the cover. Then I reinstalled the ice maker in the refrigator by plugging in the harness, slipping the ice maker over the loosened screws in the refrigerator and replacing the screw that was removed from the underside bracket. Tightening all the screws completed the project.

The easiest thing to do was pull the ice make off. After taking the 3 screws out of the wall of the freezer, take a screwdriver (flathead) and push on the tab for the electrical plug and wiggle the cord out. Then you can take 3 screws out for the main cover and another 2 screws on the next cover. There's the part, pop it out and replace holding pins and start the process of putting back together the opposite way you took it apart.

The ice maker was not getting water. I hotwired the water valve by switching the connectors for the water dispenser and ice maker water valves and water flowed into the icemaker when the water dispenser lever was pushed. I wronly assumed the water valve was good. I removed the icemaker and determined that the gear motor was not getting power in the position the icemaker had stopped.In this position, the thermostat determines when the motor gets power so I replaced the thermostat. The icemaker still would not get water! As it turns out, the water solenoid was sticking due to a deteriorated rubber washer which let the solenoid plunger get too far out of the magnetic field. I replaced the water solenoid assy and all is well. Don't get fooled by hotwiring the valve. If it isn't getting water, the solenoid probably is the culprit.

Pull out old module...
Remove 2 wires...
Tape to inside wall [don't want them to fall down into side panel]..

Order new switch..

Fed Ex pkg came on 2nd day..

Install wires on switch...
Press into opening...
Check door light on..[OK]
.. Done

If the fan blade needs replacement you will hear a loud noise coming from the refrigerator while the refrigerator cycles on. It will go away when it cycles off. (Note: in many cases you only need to replace the fan blade and retaining clip. Purchase both parts together. I thought I could use my old clip just to find out that the fan blade design changed and the old retaining clip would not work.)

NOTE: My refrigerator has an ice maker. delete the steps for the ice maker if you do not have one.

- I call the evaporator cover the back panel.
- I call the tunnel assembly the fan cover.

1) Empty contents of freezer - Only freezer. (Note: leave refrigerator section alone) Remove wire rack by lifting and pushing in one side to free the other side. It may be a bit of a struggle but the holes that the wire rack sit in are recessed in the middle to allow removal. (Look at other wire rack holes to see where the holes exist.)

2) Set dial in refrigerator to "OFF" then unplug refrigerator (safety first)

3) Remove one screw below the ice maker holding the ice maker to the side of the cabinet.

4)Push up on ice maker - Slide Ice maker up and dismount from mounting bolts.

5) Once the ice maker is dismounted you will expose the ice maker wiring harness - Unplug ice maker harness from rear panel.

6) Remove ice maker.

7) Remove ice maker mounting bolt closest to rear of refrigerator to facilitate removal of back panel.

8) Remove 4 screws on back panel and slide panel toward you.

9) Un-clip wiring harness attached to back panel that serves the ice maker (this protrudes from the back panel.) and push it through the back panel -

10) Lay panel down and unclip fan housing (Tunnel Assembly) from back of panel (Evaporator Cover) (note other instructions will tell you to remove this before the back panel. I found it easier this way. (Note the fan is attached to the back panel (Evaporator Cover).

11) After the fan cover is un-clip it hinges from the top. Lift panel - unhinge fan cover and expose fan.

12) The fan has a clip on the end that looks like a compressed wire spring. Pry off with a flat tip screw driver.

13) Pull fan blades towards you and remove from motor shaft.

14) Inspect shaft and wipe it off.

15) Press new fan blade assembly on shaft with you fingers. you will be able to see the shaft from the front of the fan blade as the fan blades have a split in hub area. Seat the fan blade on the shaft as far as it will go.

16) Install new fan blade clip (I used a flat screw driver and pushed it on the fan blade by working different sides of the spring (be careful).

17) Reassemble in reverse order.

I hope this helps. The job is reasonably easy for the novice and will save on a repairman coming out to install a fan blade and clip which is really a 15 minute job for the professional.

The tiny piece of plastic that holds the wire that shuts off the icemaker, broke early on with our fridge (after just a few months.) We superglued it, but last week it bit the dust for good.

Once I got this part, I removed the freezer door and trays, and pulled the icemaker out by removing 3 flathead screws and unplugging the cables. Laying in the freezer on the floor was a bit unconfortable, but not too bad.

Then I inspected the icemaker. There was no obvious way to remove the part without disassembling the front of the unit (where the motor is) to release the spindle and free the part, so I did that - 3 or 4 nuts was all that held it together. Once that was out, I removed the spindle, swapped out the part, and put it all back together and back in the freezer. Plugged it in and waited.

It took a while to start making ice. Like 5 hours. Now it's going pretty slow (much slower than before.) Haven't had time to look into it, but my suspicion is the rubber hose that feeds water into the icemaker is blocked with ice or kinked. In any case, we have ice now (but not a lot), and the unit shuts itself off properly. However, we went from having too much ice (thing never shut off) to too little (thing makes ice too slow), so I need to shoot for somewhere in the middle ;)

I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened the screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!

Old ones out to the recycle bin.
New ones snapped down and slid in.
Most of the repair time was spent taking the food off the shelves and putting the food back in.
I called a really lovely person at PartsDirect. She gave me helpful and accurate advice. The price was less than I expected. The shipping was faster than I expected. Everything went bull's eye perfect without calling some nasty, expensive repair guy.

I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.

Thanks,
Matt

Popping out the broken switch was easy once I was able to see how the new switch part was engineered. The switch was made to be replaced, having a simple tension hook on the bottom of the switch which needed to be depressed to pull the switch out of the cabinet. Once pulled out, there were modular plugs for the power line that were easy to pull off the broken switch and plug into the new switch. Pop the new switch back in and VOILA, the lights worked again! Thanks to part select's good diagrams of the actual model of my refrigerator, it was very easy to hone in on the exact part I needed. I did notice one problem with the order as the correct series for the part was displayed earlier in the process, but had the wrong series later in the process. However,. I trusted the system and the part is for the right series and fit well (an exact match, down to the color). Thanks Part Select, I would definitely use you again.

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

Had to disassemble ice maker to install part. . .

By sliding athin screwdriver blade down the side of the old switch the expasion prong that hold the switch in place was compressed enough to allow the switch to come out easlily. Plugged in new swithc and snapped in place. Plugged the refrigerator back in and light has worked great sense!

Ordering online service was convenient, priced right and delivery turn around good.

Although the 3-shelves replaced slid onto the frame okay, it didn't line up smoothly; maybe I didn't understand the diagram for ordering the part correctly, but at the time it seemed like it was correct.

I didn't complain because I was happy to have refrigerator shelves on door again.

Go for it!

Customer Support was wonderfully helpful in telling which of several similar-looking glass insets was the right one. It slipped right into place, no muss , no fuss. Thanks