Models > GSS23WSTASS > Instructions

GSS23WSTASS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for GSS23WSTASS parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the GSS23WSTASS
61-75 of 1321
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

Water line froze, food in fridge started freezing

  • Customer: Bradley from Spokane WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 18 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
I knew almost as soon as I found the frozen milk that the air-flow diverter, whatever it's called, had broken. It's a plastic part that opens and closes to allow cold air from the freezer into the fridge side.

Step one: clear off the top two shelves and take them out.

Step two: remove the lower piece of the assembly. It pops straight out at the top and drops down after that. If you pull the bottom straight out, you may break the bits that holds it to the fridge wall.

Step three: remove screws holding in light, and then the screws holding in the AASM COVER FF INLET K (wish I had a better name for it).

Step Four: Unplug the unit from the fridge wall.

Installation, reverse, except maybe unplug the unit earlier.

Gasket wasn't sealing

  • Customer: Joe from Succasunna NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 17 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced gasket. No tools requires. Just pull the old one out and press new one in channel with hands. TIP: heat the new one slightly with a hair dryer or a heat gun on low. Makes it more flexible

fridge side freezes some items

  • Customer: Anthony from Murfreesboro TN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 19 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
went to your website and viewed exploded view to find the sensor( there are two I just picked one to replace for now), pried the cover off carfully and pulled out the sensor. I snipped the wire in the middle leaving plenty to work with. I shortened the wire on the new piece, spliced the wires together and with some 3M rubberized, tape wrapped them up, replaced the sensor back into the cover and snapped in place.

This seems to be a design problem because I have to replace this part about every other year since we bought it. I tried to talk to GE but all they want to do is send a service man out to replace the part for about 100.00, But I do it for around 15.00. I just think they should find out why the rubbe

  • Customer: Jeff from Columbia City IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
The repair is easy, just pop the grill off around the ice and water door, then there are 4 screwws to take out so the touch pad can be moved out of the way to unsnap the old door assm. and snap in the new one and wait about a year and a hald to order another one!!!!!

FREEZER COLD, REFRIGERATOR SECTION WARM

  • Customer: CLIFFORD from SPRING CITY PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
THE PROBLEM WITH THIS MODEL IS USUALLY A BURNED OUT HEATER ASSEMBLY, WHEN THE FREEZER IS STILL FREEZING, BUT THE FRESH FOOD SECTION IS WARM. TO CHECK, FIRST DISCONNECT POWER FROM REFRIGERATOR. REMOVE FOOD AND THEN SHELVES FROM FREEZER SECTION. REMOVE THE SCREWS THAT HOLD THE BACK FREEZER PANEL IN PLACE. REMOVE BACK PANEL AND THE COILS WILL BE EXPOSED. IF THEY ARE COVERED IN ICE THE HEATER IS MOST LIKELY THE PROBLEM. AT THE BOTTOM OF THE COILS BELOW THE HEATER ASSEMBLY IS A DRAIN HOLE PLUG THIS HOLE WITH A RAG. PLACE A LARGE TOWEL IN BOTTOM OF FREEZER PAN BENEATH THE COILS TO CATCH THE WATER. I DO NOT RECOMMEND ANY METHOD TO MELT THE ICE FROM THE COILS BUT A HAIR DRYER, DO NOT CHIP AT THE ICE OR YOU WILL MOST LIKELY DAMAGE THE COILS. AFTER YOU HAVE DEFROSTED THE COILS AND REMOVED ALL WATER FROM THE UNIT, REMOVE THE TWO SCREWS THAT HOLD THE HEATER ELEMENT IN PLACE, THIS ELEMENT IS DIRECTLY BELOW THE COILS. LOOK AT THE ELEMENT, IF IT IS BURNT BLACK, THIS IS A TELL TALE SIGN IT IS BAD. IF THAT IS THE CASE IT WILL NEED TO BE REPLACED. REMOVE THE ELECTRICAL WIRES LOCATED ON TE END OF UNIT, THE NEW UNIT WILL HAVE INSTRUCTIONS WITH IT, RECONNECT THE ELECTRICAL WIRES PER INSTRUCTIONS, REMOUNT HEATER WITH THE SAME MOUNTING SCREWS THAT HELD IT IN PLACE. BE SURE TO REMOVE RAG FROM DRAIN HOLE, REPLACE BACK FREEZER PANEL WITH SCREWS, REPLACE SHELVES, AND PLUG REFRIGERATOR BACK IN. IF YOUR PROBLEM WAS A COLD FREEZER SECTION BUT A WARM FRESH FOOD SECTION THIS SHOULD FIX YOUR PROBLEM. IN CONCLUSION, THIS PROBLEM AND THE FIX FOR IT IS INDICATIVE TO THESE MODEL'S GE REFRIGERATOR'S

Received the Temp Sensor but no documentation how to replace it

  • Customer: Stephen from Sebring FL
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required:
  • 19 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
I still have not be able to replace the sensor as I've been unable to locate any info, or figure out where it is located. The water valve was easy to replace and took less than a half hour

After looking further into your website I found all the info, diagrams and instructions to replace the Temp Sensor, which was not too involved, thank you. Now to wait and see if this was the cause and my Refrigerator is up and running again

Water Leaking @ Quick Releases (Blue and White)

  • Customer: randy from vancouver WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Had previously replace the plastic Water Tank, but when installing it I didn't realize how the quick connects worked. Instead of simply pushing inward in the direction of the blue part of the disconnect, I had pulled out the white ring on the outside of the disconnects. This ruined the inside connections and caused them to leak thus requiring these repairs. Had I known that I wouldnt have bought these parts too. Just Always REMEMBER to push in outside white ring on the quick disconnect and as you push it in pull out the hose when you remove it. To put the hose back in, just push it back in without pushing on ring this time at all and it will lock in place, and shouldn't be leaking. I had to run water into a glass to test if it was leaking, otherwise the line had no water pressure.

water and ice maker stopped working

  • Customer: Robert from Sandston VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 15 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the cover on the bottom of the rear of the fridge and the top left of the fridge where the tubbes exit.. Then just simply disconnect the tube coming from the fridge and the supply line. Next go inside the fridge, remove the cover of the filter mount, and remove the 2 screws securing the filter mount in place. Now pull the tubes through the opening and reinstall in reverse order.

freezer cold / fridge warm

  • Customer: Mark from Mancos CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 18 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
put fridge into test mode, failed One sensor. Took it out, Tested it, Ordered part also picked up splice kit from electric store spliced it truned on and good to go

Freezer stopped working

  • Customer: Gerry from Hamilton NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 21 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
Came home in the morning and found that everything in the freezer was defrosted. The fridge and freezer were warm so I checked the web to see what the problem could be. After about 15 minutes I found what the two causes could be. Since the parts were so cheap, I decided to change both the defrost heater and thermastat. It's been about a week since I changed the parts and no problem.

Freezer would not defrost correctly

  • Customer: Michael from Milton FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Took panel off back of inside of freezer section, took off old sensor from the evaporator, spliced new sensor into the existing wires, waterproofed spliced connections, snapped sensor back onto evaporator, then put panel back on the inside of the freezer. Really, it took only 10 minutes to fix. Now refrigerator defrosts like it used to, and temps have settled in at specified temps.

Water leaked constantly from water dispenser in door

  • Customer: John from Dexter MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Had to turn off water and remove back panel and with a few tools the part was off and the new part put on in less that 30 minutes!! Finding parts on your website were easily found.

Water if refigerator door is really slow. Ice making is really slow.

  • Customer: Fred from Edgartown MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Used by pass filter and problem disappeared. Of course wayer is now unfiltered. This is a GE design flaw. Also replacement filters are outrageously expensive and do not last long. We have good water here and I'll stick with the bypass.

water & Ice disspenser quite working

  • Customer: Michael from Otsego MN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
first replace the solenoid behind the front display. than replace the mother board on the back side of the fridge due to a relay being burned out on it.

GE Wanted $300 + to come out and do the repair.

With partsselect and a little time I cut that cost in half.

Thank you,

Mike

Freezer and fresh food section getting warm due to inside coils frosting over.

  • Customer: John from Windham NH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 14 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
No self defrost. Measured heater coil with ohm meter which was OK (not open). Ordered 2 temp sensors (there are 2 in freezer, 2 in fresh food sections). The original and the new all meaured ~150 ohms. Replaced one by one. This did not fix problem. Ordered defrost thermostat. Original measured ~150 ohms - new one was ~100 ohms. Unpluged refridgerator. Removed coil panel (4 nut screws) in freezer and light cover (1 small phillips screw). Locate defrost thermostat clipped to top of coils (orange / pink wires). Cut wires and unclipped thermostat. Stripped insulation off of wires and reconnect using wire nuts. Clipped thermostat back to coils. Ran refridgerator without panel on coils to see if coils frosted up again and listend for fans/compressor to stop ( took hours). Opened freezer and viewed glow of defrost heater. Problem resolved.
All Instructions for the GSS23WSTASS
61-75 of 1321