Models > GSS23WSTASS > Instructions

GSS23WSTASS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for GSS23WSTASS parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the GSS23WSTASS
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Cold water reservoir tank was cracked and spraying the interior of the fridge

  • Customer: Thomas from Waynesboro VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 22 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
Symptom was water running out of bottom of fridge. Found water pooled up under bottom drawer. Removed (3) drawers and found water was "spraying" from the reservoir tank at back of fridge. Unboxed the new "tank" and confirmed it was the right one by holding it up to the one still in the fridge. Pulled fridge from the wall; removed the rear bottom cover panel on the back using the nutdriver. Removed the solenoid assy by taking that single hex screw out. Push down on the blue circular flange where tube supply enters solenoid, and release the tubing from the solenoid. Remove front bottom cover with phillips screwdriver. Located 2nd tubing connector below freezer (under the unit) and used the same procedure to release that tube from the coupling. Removed screws from tank on inside of fridge, after removing several shelves that were in front of it. Pulled the tubing from the old unit up and out. Discard. Got new unit and fed tubes through the hole the others came out of (back right corner of fridge) MAKE SURE THE NEW TUBES HAVE THEIR "stoppers" IN PLACE. You don't want to contaminate the new tubes with insulation or other debris. Make sure the "o" ring that seals the tubes on the inside of the fridge (supplied with new unit)and the styrofoam insulation stays in place to keep air from leaking through the holes the tubes go through. Installation of the (2) tubes is simple, simply push them into the connector on the solenoid, and the coupler under the freezer. You'll need to feed the longer tube from the back to the front left corner where this coupler is. After making the connection, I bolted the solenoid unit back to the fridge (only 1 screw) and then tested the unit to see there were no leaks before I buttoned everything up. NO LEAKS!! Put the front bottom grill back on with the (2) phillips screws, and the back bottom cover back on with the hex screws removed near the beginning. Probably took longer to write this than it did to make the repair.

Water Leaking @ Quick Releases (Blue and White)

  • Customer: randy from vancouver WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 21 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
Had previously replace the plastic Water Tank, but when installing it I didn't realize how the quick connects worked. Instead of simply pushing inward in the direction of the blue part of the disconnect, I had pulled out the white ring on the outside of the disconnects. This ruined the inside connections and caused them to leak thus requiring these repairs. Had I known that I wouldnt have bought these parts too. Just Always REMEMBER to push in outside white ring on the quick disconnect and as you push it in pull out the hose when you remove it. To put the hose back in, just push it back in without pushing on ring this time at all and it will lock in place, and shouldn't be leaking. I had to run water into a glass to test if it was leaking, otherwise the line had no water pressure.

water and ice maker stopped working

  • Customer: Robert from Sandston VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 19 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the cover on the bottom of the rear of the fridge and the top left of the fridge where the tubbes exit.. Then just simply disconnect the tube coming from the fridge and the supply line. Next go inside the fridge, remove the cover of the filter mount, and remove the 2 screws securing the filter mount in place. Now pull the tubes through the opening and reinstall in reverse order.

water running slow

  • Customer: David from Tacoma WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 22 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
unscrewed old filter by hand, installed new filter.

Very high pitch whine. Not real loud but really annoying.

  • Customer: ronald from kissimmee FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 19 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
First I hired a repairman and he said that it was in the unit and would not be worth the expense to fix.

I started to research on the net and this was one possible source. ( evaporator fan). I had to take it apart to verify it. Then put it back together to use until the part came.

The next time went much faster as I did not have to take near as many screws out to access the fan motor. Very Happy to have it working fine again as a new relacement would cost $1200. Thanks much. Ron

FREEZER COLD, REFRIGERATOR SECTION WARM

  • Customer: CLIFFORD from SPRING CITY PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 21 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
THE PROBLEM WITH THIS MODEL IS USUALLY A BURNED OUT HEATER ASSEMBLY, WHEN THE FREEZER IS STILL FREEZING, BUT THE FRESH FOOD SECTION IS WARM. TO CHECK, FIRST DISCONNECT POWER FROM REFRIGERATOR. REMOVE FOOD AND THEN SHELVES FROM FREEZER SECTION. REMOVE THE SCREWS THAT HOLD THE BACK FREEZER PANEL IN PLACE. REMOVE BACK PANEL AND THE COILS WILL BE EXPOSED. IF THEY ARE COVERED IN ICE THE HEATER IS MOST LIKELY THE PROBLEM. AT THE BOTTOM OF THE COILS BELOW THE HEATER ASSEMBLY IS A DRAIN HOLE PLUG THIS HOLE WITH A RAG. PLACE A LARGE TOWEL IN BOTTOM OF FREEZER PAN BENEATH THE COILS TO CATCH THE WATER. I DO NOT RECOMMEND ANY METHOD TO MELT THE ICE FROM THE COILS BUT A HAIR DRYER, DO NOT CHIP AT THE ICE OR YOU WILL MOST LIKELY DAMAGE THE COILS. AFTER YOU HAVE DEFROSTED THE COILS AND REMOVED ALL WATER FROM THE UNIT, REMOVE THE TWO SCREWS THAT HOLD THE HEATER ELEMENT IN PLACE, THIS ELEMENT IS DIRECTLY BELOW THE COILS. LOOK AT THE ELEMENT, IF IT IS BURNT BLACK, THIS IS A TELL TALE SIGN IT IS BAD. IF THAT IS THE CASE IT WILL NEED TO BE REPLACED. REMOVE THE ELECTRICAL WIRES LOCATED ON TE END OF UNIT, THE NEW UNIT WILL HAVE INSTRUCTIONS WITH IT, RECONNECT THE ELECTRICAL WIRES PER INSTRUCTIONS, REMOUNT HEATER WITH THE SAME MOUNTING SCREWS THAT HELD IT IN PLACE. BE SURE TO REMOVE RAG FROM DRAIN HOLE, REPLACE BACK FREEZER PANEL WITH SCREWS, REPLACE SHELVES, AND PLUG REFRIGERATOR BACK IN. IF YOUR PROBLEM WAS A COLD FREEZER SECTION BUT A WARM FRESH FOOD SECTION THIS SHOULD FIX YOUR PROBLEM. IN CONCLUSION, THIS PROBLEM AND THE FIX FOR IT IS INDICATIVE TO THESE MODEL'S GE REFRIGERATOR'S

ice maker leaked water slowly and froze the cubes together

  • Customer: Steven from Cave Creek AZ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 23 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
The replacement ice maker that GE supplies for my old refrigerator is a little different than the original. The electrical plug changed from a round plug to a square one. They include an adapter for it, but DON'T USE IT. There's not enough room for the bulky cord and connector. I got a much cleaner installation by taking apart the old and the new ice maker, and then splicing in the old connector into the new ice maker. You need to carefully unscrew a circuit board inside to wire it in, and it'll be more secure if you solider 3 wires instead of using crimp connectors. The instructions also tell you to use your old 'ice breaker', but it won't fit on the new ice maker. I just left the new ice maker's ice breaker on, and it seems to work perfect.

freezer cold / fridge warm

  • Customer: Mark from Mancos CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 20 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
put fridge into test mode, failed One sensor. Took it out, Tested it, Ordered part also picked up splice kit from electric store spliced it truned on and good to go

Received the Temp Sensor but no documentation how to replace it

  • Customer: Stephen from Sebring FL
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required:
  • 21 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
I still have not be able to replace the sensor as I've been unable to locate any info, or figure out where it is located. The water valve was easy to replace and took less than a half hour

After looking further into your website I found all the info, diagrams and instructions to replace the Temp Sensor, which was not too involved, thank you. Now to wait and see if this was the cause and my Refrigerator is up and running again

Freezer stopped working

  • Customer: Gerry from Hamilton NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 23 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
Came home in the morning and found that everything in the freezer was defrosted. The fridge and freezer were warm so I checked the web to see what the problem could be. After about 15 minutes I found what the two causes could be. Since the parts were so cheap, I decided to change both the defrost heater and thermastat. It's been about a week since I changed the parts and no problem.

This seems to be a design problem because I have to replace this part about every other year since we bought it. I tried to talk to GE but all they want to do is send a service man out to replace the part for about 100.00, But I do it for around 15.00. I just think they should find out why the rubbe

  • Customer: Jeff from Columbia City IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 18 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
The repair is easy, just pop the grill off around the ice and water door, then there are 4 screwws to take out so the touch pad can be moved out of the way to unsnap the old door assm. and snap in the new one and wait about a year and a hald to order another one!!!!!

water & Ice disspenser quite working

  • Customer: Michael from Otsego MN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
first replace the solenoid behind the front display. than replace the mother board on the back side of the fridge due to a relay being burned out on it.

GE Wanted $300 + to come out and do the repair.

With partsselect and a little time I cut that cost in half.

Thank you,

Mike

Gasket wasn't sealing

  • Customer: Joe from Succasunna NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced gasket. No tools requires. Just pull the old one out and press new one in channel with hands. TIP: heat the new one slightly with a hair dryer or a heat gun on low. Makes it more flexible

I had a water leak (undiscovered) from under my refrig

  • Customer: Daniel from Anderson SC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
After de-energized unit (by removing electical plug from outlet),I removed the rear panel at bottom of unit. I then removed the mounting screw to the water valve. I then disconnected the wiring assembly from the old unit. I then removed the water supply lines going to the icemaker and water filter. I then placed the water supply into the replacement water valve. plugged in wiring assembly to new unit and rehung water valve inside refrig. Turned water valve on at water supply to check for leaks, finding none I then replaced back panel on refridge and plugged in electrical cord and returned refrige to normal place in kitchen.

Freezer would not defrost correctly

  • Customer: Michael from Milton FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Took panel off back of inside of freezer section, took off old sensor from the evaporator, spliced new sensor into the existing wires, waterproofed spliced connections, snapped sensor back onto evaporator, then put panel back on the inside of the freezer. Really, it took only 10 minutes to fix. Now refrigerator defrosts like it used to, and temps have settled in at specified temps.
All Instructions for the GSS23WSTASS
61-75 of 1,387