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GSR23YBTAWV
GSR23YBTAWV General Electric Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the GSR23YBTAWV
[Viewing 7 of 7]
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Temperature Sensor
PartSelect #: PS304103
Manufacturer #: WR55X10025
This sensor (Temperature Sensor, Thermistor, Refrigerator Temperature Sensor) sends the temperature reading of the compartment to the control board. If you notice your refrigerator is too warm, too co...
$27.00
In Stock
Module Shelf Insert - Clear
PartSelect #: PS2323438
Manufacturer #: WR71X10761
The Module Shelf Insert is a complete assembly for the module shelf. This repair is rated as "Easy" by users. Simply remove the old shelf insert and snap the new one into place using the locking tabs....
$21.27
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Grommet - Red
PartSelect #: PS963756
Manufacturer #: WR02X12008
If you notice that your refrigerator or freezer is noisy or too warm, you may need to replace the evaporator fan grommet. This part is red in color, and is about 1 inch in diameter. The evaporator fan...
$13.21
In Stock
Main Electronic Control Board
PartSelect #: PS2364946
Manufacturer #: WR55X10942
This electronic board (Main Control Board Assembly, Control Board, Motherboard) controls the temperature and defrost functions of the unit. This control board is located on the back of the refrigerato...
$413.05
On Order
Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly
PartSelect #: PS303781
Manufacturer #: WR51X10055
The defrost heater keeps the cooling coils from frosting over. The heater will get hot and melt any ice or frost build up around the coils.
$106.51
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect #: PS217532
Manufacturer #: 40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
$11.02
In Stock
Refrigerator Door Shelf Bin
PartSelect #: PS3513394
Manufacturer #: WR71X10973
Sold individually. This door bin is for refrigerators.
Door bin attaches to the inside of the refrigerator door and typically holds jars and bottles.
Follow the instructions in the owner's manu...
$106.36
In Stock
Air Inlet Cover Kit
PartSelect #: PS966602
Manufacturer #: WR49X10091
This kit includes damper, fan assembly, nozzle and gasket for nozzle. The damper and fan has been updated by the manufacturer to avoid freezing in the refrigerator. Also known as a damper assembly.
$213.06
In Stock
DC Condenser Fan Motor - 12V
PartSelect #: PS1483567
Manufacturer #: WR60X10209
This fan motor circulates the air through the refrigerator grille and cools the compressor and condenser coils. It also helps to evaporate extra water in the drain pan.
$76.38
In Stock
Screw - 12-24 CA HX 7/8 S
PartSelect #: PS1483121
Manufacturer #: WR01X10650
Sold individually.
$14.17
In Stock
Dairy Door - Clear
PartSelect #: PS783785
Manufacturer #: WR22X10042
This dairy door is a manufaturer approved replacement part for your refrigerator. This part covers the shelf which houses food products such as butter in your fridge. It is made of clear plastic and i...
$54.70
In Stock
Questions And Answers for GSR23YBTAWV
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Common Symptoms of the GSR23YBTAWV
[Viewing 18 of 18]Fridge too warm
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Freezer section too warm
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Noisy
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Fridge too cold
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Freezer not defrosting
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Will Not Start
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Frost buildup
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Clicking sound
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Too warm
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Fridge runs too long
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Freezer too cold
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Not dispensing water
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Ice maker not making ice
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Doesn’t stop running
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Too cold
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Door won’t open or close
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
The refrigerator made continous "whooing" sounds that increased and decreased in pitch. Sounded like a ghost. Would keep us up at night. Also noticed that the heater was not heating under the evaporator coils.
After checking the stories, the consensus of opinion was to change the mother board. I had a tremendous help from Tom Paone at quality@applianceeducator.com. He also told me to change the motherboard but to make sure that the coils were totally defrosted before starting up the refrigerator after changing the board.
Took off thr ... Read more ee nuts around the board at the back of the unit. Removed the input wires and you have to push in the plastic tabs holding the board in. Then just put the new board in place and push till the tabs click. Re-install the wires and put the cover back on.
Really simple task,
It is now a week since doing this and the unit is working perfectly. No soulds and good nights sleep. The ghost has moved on.
Took off thr ... Read more ee nuts around the board at the back of the unit. Removed the input wires and you have to push in the plastic tabs holding the board in. Then just put the new board in place and push till the tabs click. Re-install the wires and put the cover back on.
Really simple task,
It is now a week since doing this and the unit is working perfectly. No soulds and good nights sleep. The ghost has moved on.
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Parts Used:
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John from Holly Springs, NC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
556 of 645 people
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my refigerator was warm but the freezer was cold and working correcttly
I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.
I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.
... Read more
/>After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.
I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.
I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.
I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.
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Parts Used:
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michele from North Smithfield, RI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers
272 of 342 people
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Refrigerator too cold
My repair experience was a little more complicated than previous posts, but nothing major. And most importantly replacing the Fresh Food Air Inlet Cover did fix my problem. Here are the steps I followed:
1. You will need to remove a minimum of the top two shelves to get access to the Air Inlet Cover. It runs along the back of the ... Read more fridge and connects to a hole to the freezer side. It has a little fan inside that sucks the cold air from the freezer and diverts to the top and bottom of the fridge.
2. As mentioned in other posts, there are four screws holding the Inlet Cover in place, 2 lower and 2 upper. To get access to the lower two screws,you simply pop off the lower duct assembly (squeeze the sides). Be careful when removing and installing these screws. If you drop one into the lower duct, you will add a few more steps to the installation to remove more shelves and take out the lower duct to get to where the screw fell. Obviously this happened to me. Not difficult to do, just adds more time.
3. To access the upper two screws I had to remove the top light cover (one screw) and then slide out the top duct/diffuser assy (my name, not GE's).
4. Finally to get clearance to pull out the Inlet Cover, I had to remove the water filter and cover. When you pull away the Inlet Cover, you will see the electrical connection that is simple to disconnect.
5. After I removed my Inlet Cover, it was obvious that it was broken because it rattled and I could peek inside to see that the plastic air diverter/flapper thingy was broken.
6. One final surprise was that the replacement Air Inlet Cover did not exactly match the one I removed. The replacement only had one upper air outlet, while my old one had three upper outlets, left, right and center. I noticed there was a plastic cover over one of the side outlets on the replacement, so I just popped that off and hoped for the best.
7. The replacement Air Inlet Cover Kit came with sticky back insulation that you attach to where the Inlet Cover meet the freezer access hole to make sure snug fit to limit extra cold air leaking into the fridge side.
8. Installation of the replacement Air Inlet Cover was fairly easy, just follow the above steps in reverse and make sure you don't drop any screws.
It's been a couple of weeks since I performed this installation and my fridge has been maintaining temperature perfectly. No more frozen milk or lettuce. The wife is very happy.
1. You will need to remove a minimum of the top two shelves to get access to the Air Inlet Cover. It runs along the back of the ... Read more fridge and connects to a hole to the freezer side. It has a little fan inside that sucks the cold air from the freezer and diverts to the top and bottom of the fridge.
2. As mentioned in other posts, there are four screws holding the Inlet Cover in place, 2 lower and 2 upper. To get access to the lower two screws,you simply pop off the lower duct assembly (squeeze the sides). Be careful when removing and installing these screws. If you drop one into the lower duct, you will add a few more steps to the installation to remove more shelves and take out the lower duct to get to where the screw fell. Obviously this happened to me. Not difficult to do, just adds more time.
3. To access the upper two screws I had to remove the top light cover (one screw) and then slide out the top duct/diffuser assy (my name, not GE's).
4. Finally to get clearance to pull out the Inlet Cover, I had to remove the water filter and cover. When you pull away the Inlet Cover, you will see the electrical connection that is simple to disconnect.
5. After I removed my Inlet Cover, it was obvious that it was broken because it rattled and I could peek inside to see that the plastic air diverter/flapper thingy was broken.
6. One final surprise was that the replacement Air Inlet Cover did not exactly match the one I removed. The replacement only had one upper air outlet, while my old one had three upper outlets, left, right and center. I noticed there was a plastic cover over one of the side outlets on the replacement, so I just popped that off and hoped for the best.
7. The replacement Air Inlet Cover Kit came with sticky back insulation that you attach to where the Inlet Cover meet the freezer access hole to make sure snug fit to limit extra cold air leaking into the fridge side.
8. Installation of the replacement Air Inlet Cover was fairly easy, just follow the above steps in reverse and make sure you don't drop any screws.
It's been a couple of weeks since I performed this installation and my fridge has been maintaining temperature perfectly. No more frozen milk or lettuce. The wife is very happy.
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Parts Used:
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Marc from Orlando, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
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