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GSH25JSRFSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for GSH25JSRFSS parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the GSH25JSRFSS
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GE Profile Refrigerator Plug for Water Filter

  • Customer: Linda from Liberty NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Called partselect and gave my model number for the frig. I wanted a filter plug because we did not need a frig filter. We have a whole house filter. They looked up the part, took my info, and sent it to me by UPS. It arrived fairly quickly and fit the frig perfectly. I screwed it into place immediately. It was the simplest order I have ever placed and the salesman was very pleasant and proficient. If I have more issues with my frig, I will call partselect again. Just remember to turn off the water before you start.

Iced up Freezer compartment in SxS

  • Customer: Jamison from Heltonville IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
So I replaced a burnt out defrost heater; replaced the thermostat for good measure and STILL the freezer compartment was freezing up. WHY didn't I look more closely at the ice making system sooner!!?? Thought about it for a while and decided that it had to be that the solenoid in the water valve was NOT shutting off water flow to ice maker (overflowing the icemaker and running over & down interior of freezer compartment making an icberg).

Took off about 4-5 backcover screws with one size nut driver. Moved to a size larger driver to remove 1 screw holding on the water valve. And what some people don't realize is that you can push in the connectors (push them down) and THEN pull the water lines out as long as you're careful and someone hasn't already tugged on the waterlines with some force. You don't have to cut the lines off at the valve. Put the water lines in the new valve and put one screw back in it; then 4-5 backcover screws and you're done!!! At most 15 minutes...that is if you want to clean the condensor unit located behind the backcover (on the newer models within the last 4-6 years).

EASY!!! Do it yourself and save a BUNCH of money. If you're getting a flooded freezer compartment or icebergs created in there then check whenever you hear the icemaker drawing in water and see if water is running down the interior.....problem solved!

Solenoid had become rusted/crank door wouldn't close

  • Customer: William M from Ft Myers FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
First, had to use punch tool to pop out electronic face panel. Face unit still connnect via wires. Use painters tape to hold against refrig. Next, Remove ice/water dispenser and also tape to door. This will give you access to solenoid. Remove the 3 screws holding it in place and unplug fsolenoid from Face Panel. Screw new solenoid and place and connnect to Panel. Goood idea is to unplug regrig. while doing this and put a little WD-30 on shaft of solenoid. May want to order new screws, could be rusty, that hold solenoid in place. Sounds a bit complicated but not that bad a job. You'll save over$100 over GE's service.

Ice dispenser door sticking open.

  • Customer: Wallace from Oxford ME
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged power cord. Used a small screw driver to release the bottom of the control panel. Pulled it out and unplugged wires, then set it aside. Removed 4 screws from the housing shield and pulled it out. Now the solenoid assembly and related parts are accessable. I removed the solenoid assembly by loosening the top screw and removing the 2 bottom screws. This was the main problem, but I also replaced related parts that were worn or corroded. I also cleaned and disinfected everything in there while I had it apart because it was pretty nasty! Now it works like new.

Main circuit board wouldn't allow the compressor to come on

  • Customer: Leonard from Keller TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Removed old circuit board and replaced with new

"Moaning Myrtle" syndrome. Refrigerator makes a whooing sound for hours at a time

  • Customer: Stephen from Spring TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Checked the internet for reports of similar problems and concluded that it was probably the main control board. Not being particularly handy, I would never have attempted to change the board myself if I had not read the comments and instructions from people on this site. Thanks.

The job was as straight forward as others have described. The only time I had a problem was pushing in the white tab to be able to pull the old board out. That was a bit of a fiddle.

The only thing I found different was the grounding wire. On the original board, this wire was at the bottom of the board and hooked into a wire that ran into the refrigerator. On the new board, the wire was at the top of the board and had a metal loop on it. If I understand it correctly, with the new grounding system the wire is pushed into the space above the board. Then when the back plate is reattached the metal loop makes contact with it , thus grounding the refrigerator.
I chose to run the grounding wire through the original wire into the refrigerator. That meant cutting off the metal loop, slicing in an extra piece of wire to connect the grounding wire on the board to the grounding wire into the refrigerator.

I also now use a surge suppressor for the refrigerator. The “Moaning Myrtle” syndrome started after Hurricane Ike. I suspect the surge when the power was restored damaged the control board. And as so many people seem to have this “Moaning Myrtle” problem, I suspect the control board has little or no surge protection.

the cheap plastic drawer holders broke!

  • Customer: MARYT from KISSIMMEE FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Not only were the parts delivered in 2 days....but a phillips head screw driver and matching up the new rails with the old ones turned out to be a super easy and fast repair!! A monkey could do this repair!! But now I noticed the left hand top drawer rail is cracked! It stinks that the quality of the original parts are so poor...but at least I'm saving some money doing it myself!!!

Slide broke, then the drawer broke due to misuse

  • Customer: chuck from Lake Worth FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the two screws for the broken slide rail, installed the new slide rail in very short order. Put together the drawer pieces and voila... easy repair

freezer coils not thawing and fridge getting warm.

  • Customer: Gerald from Ada MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Replacing the heater is very easy. Remove the wire racks and the two lower rack bracket screws. Remove the two screws to the back panel, unclip the ground wire and remove the panel. Two screws hold he heater on and two wires for the connection.
However, this did not solve my problem. The story is this. The fridge was getting warm because the coils were freezing over. I called the local repair guys "poncho and lefty" and they came out and replace the themostat and charged me $150. It still froze over a week later. They came back and said it must be the circuit board and charged me just for the $125 part. Nope, it still froze over in a week. So I thought I would take things into my own hands and tell poncho and left to hit the trail. I then ordered a new heater because the old one looked bad even though it checked out okay with an ohm meter. Unfortunately, that didn't solve the problem either. The last thing is to replace are the temp sensors. But before I ordered anything I submitted my problem to a "fix it" forum and someone suggested to check the part number of the themostat that was put in. This turned out to be a brilliant observation. It seems poncho and lefty replace the thermostate with one that is used with a timer. This fridge has the timer built into the circuit board and has a very different temp range than the one they replace it with. Their first clue should have been that the wires were a different color than the one they were replacing and that the part number was totally different than the one they took out. So I ordered a new thermostat and the three temp sensors and replace all of this and the unit works as good as new. The forum also told me that the bullet shaped temp sensor were faulty and should all be replaced, which I did.
Now I have all new parts, so it should be good to go until the compressor takes a nose dive. Hopefully, that will not be for 5 or 6 more years.

fridge wouldn't cool, frozen food thawed

  • Customer: John from Milford UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 11 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
First my wife and i took the panel off the back, unscrewed the old mainboard, unplugged all the switches from it and prayed that the new one would work. We were without a fridge for 2 weeks beginning 2 days before Christmas!!!!! Gingerly, we put the new board in place, screwed it into the fridge, connected the switches, attached the ground wire, and held our breath as we plugged it back in. Within seconds, the familiar sound of water filling the icemaker was hear and there were cheers all around!!!

ice maker not making ice

  • Customer: Cristina from Los Angeles CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
just unscrewed the 3 screws, attached the rounded plug that came with the unit and screwed back only 2 screws. ice magic in about a couple of hours

slow water flow in dispenser

  • Customer: dwight from phoenix AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
opened refrigerator door located water filter location in right back corner unscrewd 1/2 turn and out it comes without shutting off water it is a snap to do by anyone and shipment was really quick thanks. People do not call a service tech for something this simple even a child tall enough can do it.

The refrigirator light would not come on.

  • Customer: Jania from Novato CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.

Flapper was stuck open. Old and warped.

  • Customer: James from Virginia Beach VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced flapper

Ice Maker auger blade broken

  • Customer: Michael from Hanford CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
The ice machine auger blade broke a chunk off. I decided to try to replace it myself. I bought the new auger blade and then sat there and stared at it and the ice machine for a few, trying to figure out how to change out the part. Turns out it was a qute lengthy process. The auger is threaded on one end and the ice chopping blades are on it. So I had to take each blade off the old one and put it on the new one. The blades have to be positioned just right on the shaft so it's best to just draw a line down over all the blades so as to put them on the new auger successfully. The problem I had was the end cap that screwed on the end of the shaft. It was the part I ordered here. It is made of plastic with plastic threads and at first I couldn't figure out to get it off. Turns out the threads are opposite normal. By the time I figured that out, I had just about destroyed the cap using pliers to try to unscrew it. There is a washer and half moon clip that fastens on this end nut so if you mess the nut up, chances are you won't be able to get the half moon clip to go back on. I finally did it right and now how the ice maker working right again. A hard part for me was figuring out how to set the spring shaft that works a lever to either give cubed ice or crushed. I had to keep fiddle with it before I finally got that right. At first I was only getting crushed ice even with the cubed setting and then only getting cubed ice with the crushed ice setting. After some fiddling, I got both to work but to this day can't figure out what changes from the crushed setting to the cubed setting.
All Instructions for the GSH25JSRFSS
91-105 of 1520