GSD6200G00BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Easily screwed on this part and used it for the door of the dishwasher to properly open and close

First, I wanted to insure that the drain inside the dishwasher itself was not clogged. So, I removed the lower rack, the lower spray arm, then the fine particle filter, and finally the screen over the drain. I used a small wet-dry shop vacuum to remove as much of the water as possible. Once the water was removed, I could feel that the drain was clogged with all sorts of debris. I could feel that the soft food impeller was wrapped with hair (somehow from our cat?) and other nasty stuff. I spent approximately 15 minutes cleaning the drain and the impeller. I re-installed all the components and started the wash cycle. After a minute or so, I pressed the "start" button to "cancel and drain". I could hear the drain pump come on - but no water drained from the base of the dishwasher. So while the drain and impeller needed cleaning - it was not the issue preventing the water from draining out of the tub. So, I consulted the PartSelect trouble shooting guide and read that more than likely - that the check valve flapper was the problem. So, I ordered the part and had it shipped. Once it I arrived, it used the shop vacuum to remove all the water from the base of the dishwasher. I turned off the AC power at the circuit breaker panel and shut the water off (to the dishwasher) as well. Then I had to disconnect the 3/8" diameter copper tubing feeding the inlet to the dishwasher. Also, disconnected the drain hose from the disposal. Having old bathroom towels on hand is a very good idea. There was not enough slack in the AC power line - so I did disconnect it from the dishwasher. Once these three connections were removed, I slid the dishwasher out of its space and into the center of the kitchen floor. At this point, I had a large moving blanket and placed the dishwasher on it. I then switched on the PartSelect video and watched how the check valve flapper was removed. I removed the two electrical connections (and its a good idea to mark the white receptacle with "wht" and "red/wht" as to remove any confusion when reconnecting. Then removed the two mounting screws and then the clamp. When I accessed the check valve - it did have some debris - but otherwise it didn't looked damaged. So at this point I really began to wonder if this will really solve the issue. But I continued on - I replaced the valve and then began to re-assemble the dishwasher. I re-installed the dishwasher and re-conencted the AC power line, the copper tubing inlet supply, and then the drain hose. I turned the AC power and then the water. I ran a cycle and then hot "start" to "cancel and drain". The water in the base of the dishwasher emptied immediately! So it was the check valve flapper after all.

Removed and inverted the DW. Removed the impeller, grinder, screen and seals then the actual shaft seal. Replaced with new parts in reverse order. Instructions provided with the seal kit were simple and excellent. They were right to the point.

Online video instructions (Youtube) were clear and easy to follow with the exception of the fact that my control panel was not detachable but still fairly accessible.I needed to remove all of the scews that attached the outer door to the conrol panel and inner door panel to facilitate the replacement. Also, it takes a bit of work to make sure and maneuver around the spring loaded switch that tells the dishwasher when the handle is properly closed and latched, but it's no big deal. All in all, a good 10 to 15 minute repair.

While the information email provide both instructions and examples I did what most people might do and "attacked" it on my own. Removing parts was not difficult but the reassembly required that things be done in a specific order. Rather than simply removing the end cap on the back of the rail I removed the guide wheels. Also, I put on the back end cap before inserting it back into the guide wheels which required me to remove it. Even so, the reassembly took less than 15 minutes for a unit that is over 12 years old. Next, I will replace the baskets that have started to rust where supports have broken. Part Select has renewed my faith in my ability to fix it rather than replace it.

Removed dish washer from cabinet area and snapped new clip into cable and hook into support.. The time that took the longest was to removed the screws to pull the unit out of the cabinet area.. Very easy fix...

no tools needed. followed your online info. A+ on the complete transaction

Turned off power and water to dishwasher, removed kick plate to dishwasher, removed mounting bracket from frame rail of dishwasher, unplugged valve then used pliers to remove spring clamp on rubber line and used box wrench to remove water line attached to brass connection. There was a lot of calcium build up around screen and rubber O-ring and cleaning that may have fixed it but pulled off anyhow. One problem I had is that the old part would not come apart where the L-joint screwed into the collar that attaches to valve on old setup to allow new one to be bolted to it. So I looked at putting new valve on the old mounting bracket. That did not work after I got it apart as the new bracket is flat while the old is counter sunk...and the new valve has a larger footprint and would not fit flush to seal. So back to work bench and put valve in vise as the threads had plumbers pipe cement it looked like and they were tight. Got the two joints apart...cleaned with wire brush...sanded down mouth of brass collar that fits against O-Ring of new valve to make sure clean. Put teflon tape on all threads and tightened it all back up. Reconnected, plugged in, mounted to dishwasher and ran a full cycle with dishwasher pulled out so I could monitor any leakage from beginning. All is good...so slid back under sink and ran load with dishes...noticed water on floor. Freaked out...pulled it all out and valve was dry. I forgot to clean up the little bit of water that came out of lines when disconnected first time for repair... :) All is good now.

I now need to order the retainer.

Researched problems on internet,based on info ordered part. Got it in 24 hrs.followed package directions. So easy and for less than a service call! Runs like a charm now.

NOTE I have classified this is a DIFFICULT JOB, but NOT because of the mechanics involved [including the electrical connectors UN-plugging and re-plugging, BUT DUE to the ANALYSIS you need to do to determine whether the SOAP DISH PART or the CONTROLLER is at fault. And this ANALYSIS will probably require you to get into the DISHWASHER DOOR twice. Once to do the analysis and then again to replace whatever part you target. Being you will want to continue to use the DISHWASHER by manually dropping the soap door [or just soap] at the appropriate time in the cycle, while awaiting the new part, which means you have re-button up the door and take it apart again when the new part arrives. . Before starting, view PartSelect's VIDEO on replacing the SOAP DISPENSER, but ignore THE STEPS OF REMOVING AND REPLACING THE SOAP DISPENSER.PART, at this time. The analysis starts with MANUALLY trying to activate the mechanical soap door release on the back of the mounted SOAP DISPENSER, with the soap door closed. It should take only ounces of downward pressure [towards the door hinge] on the vertical plastic piece in a channel near the center of the dispenser, to release the soap door. Next if you have access to an OHM METER {or MULTIMETER} or a DC POWER SUPPLY [to test the the activation of the door release] pull the two connectors on the SOAP DISH SOLENOID [a set pointed pliers will be helpful, as outlined in the VIDEO]. If measuring the SOLENOID's resistance it should read roughly 1800 OHMS. If using a DC POWER SUPPLY, you will probably need at least 25 volts DC to trigger the SOLENOID [NOTE I do not have a variable DC POWER SUPPLY to check it out nor do I know the voltage that the DISHWASHER uses]. Do not bother to measure the resistance of CONTROLLER's driving circuitry [the two wires having connectors], as it will read INFINITY, regardless of whether GOOD or BAD, The CONTROLLER apparently uses a RELAY on this circuit, as opposed to some kind of solid state switch. Replug the SOLENOID connectors. Re-buttoned up the DISHWASHER as shown in the VIDEO, assuming you are going to continue using it If you determine no problems in the above tests, then consider it a CONTROLLER pro0blem and you will need to order one. Otherwise you should have found indications of a SOAP DISPENSER PROBLEM. . When the replacement part arrives and you ready to install it, refer again to PartSelect's VIDEO on replacing the Soap Dish Dispenser for a refresher Following the VIDEO completely, if you replacing the DISPENSER. If you are replacing the CONTROLLER, once inside the DOOR, you will need to remove around 6 individual electrical connectors [before doing ANYTHING REMOVE POWER from the DISHWASHER [as instructed in the VIDEO}. These connectors [all but any single wire connectors] are designed to be plugged only one specific way, so when re-plugging NEVER FORCE a connection, The best way to make sure you do not get confused, take a picture of all the connectors -OR- make notes on the looks and orientation of each multi-wire connector. There is one mounting screw on right side of the CONTROLLER. When installing the new CONTROLLER there are mounting EARS on the left side that are first engaged by having the CONTROLLER tilted up on the right side. Replace the mounting screw. Replugged all the connectors using whatever guide you made. Proceed to put the DOOR back together as outlined in the VIDEO.

Put the wheel on the stud/axle first THEN push wheel/stud/axle assembly onto lower dishwasher rack.

Check website, order part. Hardest part was determining which was the right part. Needed the axle--I call it the hanger. I had previously called and ordered, but only received the wheel with no way to attach it. Push the axle into the wheel. Push the axle onto the rack. Since it was new, it didn't slip right on, and had to push it hard. (However, when it snapped on, three of the other wheels and axles came off.) Had to put them back on as well. Much easier, as they were older and not as snug. Total time: Took longer to open the package than put it on.

I sopped up all the water in there and pulled out the lower rack, then disconnected the electricity and water pipe and drain hose. Then I unscrewed the front kick plate/cover and removed that. Then I unscrewed two screws at top of unit from the counter top, and pulled the unit out. It is surprisingly light weight. I rolled it over on its right side, and took off the short drain hose where the flapper is, and pulled the old one off and put the new one on and reversed the procedure to reinstall. It was very easy to fix, especially with your Youtube video! THANKS

I had a small leak from under the dishwasher which turned out to be a tiny hole in the Pump Connector. With the power off I pulled the dishwasher out of the cabinet and disconnected the water and drain lines to give me more room. I put the dishwasher on its back to have access to the pump assembly. A couple of nut drivers and the pump connector is accessible. Replaced the pump connector and over tightened it "Crack"... had to replace the Main Conduit connector ($50). I was able to turn a simple $20 repair into a $70 repair. Now that's talent!