GSD5560G00SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Easy repair. Just remove old and insert new.

Pulled out the rubber baffles. They had detiorated and lost their protective ribs which keep the water inside the dishwasher. No tools were needed, I just cleaned the area where they were located.

I had some extra problems with my water supply line since this is an old house, but I won't dwell on that. If you have an older model like mine (probably 80's) the only trick is with the drain solenoid. The kit uses a newer style solenoid that is a little different. Without getting too technical here, let me just say that if the old solenoid has a little metal lever that is actuated when the plunger goes down do not discard it. From what I have read, the dishwasher will shut down with an error code if you don't use this part and you will also have 2 wires that are just hanging there with nothing to plug in to. You will need to use an included metal plate and screws to adapt that part to the new assembly. It takes a little mechanical aptitude, but after you figure it out it works perfectly. I did not see this mentioned in the instructions but the necessary parts were included. Replacing the pump and motor was fairly simple, and all the needed parts were included in the kit. I did remove the unit from under the counter and lay it on it's back for easy access to the pump and motor. It helps to watch some You-tube videos if you are unsure about how to do this, but make sure they are working on the brand you have. All dishwashers are NOT the same.

Dishwasher kept displaying error code C1 (drain partly blocked) and occasionally C2 (Drain completely blocked). The drain was fine. Parts Select said symptom "not draining" needed a check valve. Installed that (old one was very worn), but that didn't help. I decided to take off the bottom panel and eyeball the situation. Discovered a leak from the drain valve. But I also discovered the reason for the error codes. The leak had rusted the actuator in the drain valve solenoid so that it couldn't move reliably. So when drain time came, the drain valve didn't open, resulting in a C1 or C2 error (the washer electronics thought the drain was blocked--and in a way it was. I got the replacement parts for the leaking drain valve and installed them. Hints: take a photo of the assembly before you take it apart. Getting the push on nut off was an ordeal, as some have said. I spend at least two hours getting it off. I hope you have secret tool X13 to make it faster. Hint #2: There is play in the drain valve shaft, so I held it toward me with a pair of pliers while I pushed the new push on nut all the way tight to hold the new rubber washer. Hint #3: I used plumber's grease on the washer and shaft to make installation easier. I found the two pairs of long-handled needle nose pliers very useful. Oh, I sanded the rust off the solenoid actuator and added a bit of WD-40 and now the error code problem (as well as the leak) is over.

Placed baffles manually as instructed in the video. Easy repair with excellent on-line support and instructions.

i first order the corner baffles and put them in. no change at all, still leaked terribly. the old baffles looked pretty good so i kept them. i then ordered the door gasket and the insert. i removed the old one, put in the new, and still no change. i thought perhaps the machine hadn't been used at all because it was like brand new inside, and previously owned by 'a little old lady'. i decided to load it up and run it on a regular wash, and have done that three times now. it drips a very small amount on the left corner but i'm quite happy that it decreased so much. I think perhaps the seal might be setting with the heat of the cycle because each time a load goes through it get less and less drips from that corner. The first order was sent by ups and they couldn't find where i lived so i actually had to go pick them up, but the second order was sent fedex and they had no problem finding my home, and i was very pleased with how fast my order came.

The repair was simple. Opened the door and the parts pulled right out and I inserted the new ones. It took care of the problem. I knew what to replace by going to your instant repair man. I now have your web site in "My favorites". Thanks for the help and the quick shipment of th parts. Duane

Pull rack out put wheel on put rack back

I firts turned off power to the diswasher through the circuit breaker panel. I removed the black tray at the bottom front of the dishwasher, removed the two screws attaching the water inlet valve, detached inlet and outlet water hoses as well as the eletric connector. I removed fitting from the old valve and installed in the new valve using some teflon tape. Installation is the reverse of the removal.

1. Pulled the upper basket out. 2. Removed the end caps on the tracks supporting the basket. 3. Cussed a little - used a small flat screwdriver to force a flange on the end cap to move far enough to free up the end cap. 4. Removed all 4 wheel assemblies. 5. Snapped 4 new upper wheels and axels into place on the basket. 6. Slid the upper basket into the tracks. 7. Replaced the 2 end caps. 8. Works like a charm.

Very simple but it was the right part on schedule so it was amashing success. Thanks

The 4 rollers and axles needed to be replaced for the upper rack. First, I had to remove the end caps from the upper tracks. This was the most difficult part of the repair. I intially tried to pull the caps towards the front of the dishwasher which did not work. In the end, I twisted them towards the center of the dishwasher. Once this was done, I pulled the upper rack from the tracks, replaced the old rollers and axles with the new ones. Put the rack back on the track. Put the end caps back on. The repair took less than 15 minutes, for something that has be getting worse over the last year.

after removing old door seal, and cporner seals,spent 15 minutes removing many years worth of crud. thensliped in the corner seals, and door gasket, time, about 10 minutes. didn't test, Iknew it would work---- it did.

I popped off the four bottom wheels and snapped these four on. Works great now and doesn't drive us crazy every time we open and shut the door.

Unscrewed the 7 screws on the inner dishwasher door. Removed old gasket (clearly not long enough to cover the opening...), inserted new gasket. Replaced door (making sure the locking lever came through opening on the front) and replaced screws. Have run 3 loads of dishes and hasn't leaked yet, appears to be fixed!