Models > GSD3400G00WW > Instructions

GSD3400G00WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for GSD3400G00WW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the GSD3400G00WW
61-75 of 751
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dishwasher was not draining left water in bottom of machine the drain solenoid was melted.

  • Customer: Eric from Golden CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
First I took out the two screws that hold the drain solenoid on the unit and took off the c- clip that held the arm on the shaft if you have a digital camera take a picture to make sure you can get it back together the same way.. Then put together new unit and attatched putting the c-clip back on. Ran it through some cycles to make sure the solenoid was working. Four days later the solenoid is melted again, the timer must have an intermittentant problem I should have replaced the timer and the soleniod both at the same time. Make sure you dont make the same mistake I did. Now I will be buying a new dishwasher instead of putting any more time and money into this one.

Motor seized on 1990 GE dishwasher

  • Customer: DAVID from UNION MILLS NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
The motor seized up on my 1990 GE Dishwasher
Repair would cost 360. Replacement about 600
I ordered the motor and pump from PartSelect for 137..44
Remover the under counter washer (it‘s very light) and removed the water and drain line and disconnected the power. Turned the washer on it’s top to access the motor and pump and removed the electrical plug in lines, and the clamps holding the pump on to the connections. Replaced it with the new motor and pump, reconnected the electrical plug ins, added an adapter hose part, tightened the original clamps then reconnected the water, drain and electrical connections and reinstalled the washer. All in about an hour, The only glitch was the grounding screw for the ground wire on the motor. The screw was too long to tighten. Substituted the original shorter ground screw from the old motor, and that worked fine. Only used 4 parts from the large assortment of parts supplied.
Immediately ran the washer through a cycle, all worked perfectly.

22 YR OLD DISHWASHER WOULD NOT PUMP OUT WATER

  • Customer: Joseph from Lowell MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
22 YEAR OLD DISHWASHER ... NOT WORTH REPAIRING I THOUGHT SO I PULLED IT OUT TO DISPOSE OF IT. BEFORE I DID, I WENT ONLINE TO SEE IF ANY PARTS WERE STILL AVAILABLE...TO MY SURPRISE PARTSELECT.COM HAD IT ALL!
MY PROBLEM WAS A PLUGGED CHAMBER LOCATED ON REAR WALL OF UNIT.
A 20 MINUTE REPAIR ONCE THE NEW PART ARRIVED.
PART ARRIVED IN 3 DAYS BUT WAS BROKEN INSIDE OF PKG. I CALLED AND THE OPERATOR APOLOGIZED PROFUSELY... SHE TOLD ME TO KEEP THE DEFECTIVE AND EXPLAINED MY CC WOULD temporarily BE CHARGED FOR REPLACEMENT BUT AS SOON AS THEY RECEIVED A CREDIT FROM SUPPLIER MY CREDIT WILL APPEAR ON MY CC STMT. I HAD A REPLACEMENT THE FOLLOWING DAY...
WHAT A COMPANY!!!!

dripping from bottom door

  • Customer: Bill from Surprise AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Since i was not sure which gasket has failed, i replaced all 4 considering the age of the dishwasher,( 2 are corner baffles ). The only time i was scratching my head was installing the gasket insert. No one mentioned to overlap or not, so i did overlap and crossed my fingers. After several cycles there is no dripping so i guess overlapping about a 1/2 inch is the way to do it. And i would suggest cleaning the gasket groove in the bottom corners really good. Good luck, bill

Water leak at drain valve shaft

  • Customer: Randolph from Orlando FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Before ordering the parts I read the posts by other do it yourselfers and found them very helpful. I ordered the seal and shaft nut from Parts Select and was impressed the parts were delivered in a couple of days. I removed the two lower panels from the dishwasher to expose the leak and the shaft. I turned off the electricity at the circuit breaker box and disconnected the wiring harness to expose the area I would work on. After cleaning the water deposits from the shaft I pried off the small lock washer and removed the plastic cam from the selenoid. Next step required removal of the push on nut. This was the most difficult part of the entire procedure. It required a bit of gentle but firm pulling with pliers and a couple of screwdrivers, sacrificing the nut in the process. It was better ordering a new one originally then trying to save the old one. Having experiencing these nuts in previous work, I knew a new nut would be a cheap fix! Once off, the old seal is easy to remove. Place the new seal on the shaft as per the included instructions, place the new push on nut and reassemble as originally taken apart. (I used a socket set to push on the push on nut.) I then ran a load of dishes to make sure there was no leak before reinstalling the lower panels. I had no leak but pay close attention to placing the seal and push on nut. The seal must be in the exact place.

leaking selenoid told repair cost would exceed replacement cost

  • Customer: Susan from Pottsville PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Shut off circuit breaker to dishwasher and shut off valve to dishwasher under sink.Remove bottom access panel screws on both sides of panel. Remove both screws holding dishwasher to counter.Place old mattboard strips under legs to prevent scratching floor & slide out from under counter. Use a Shopvac to remove water and spillage. Have rags and paper towels handy. Carefully disconnect wires, drain hose and water line to free dishwasher. Fold old rug runner in half to place dishwasher on, turn on side and then gently upside down on rug to access motor. Remove butterfly clamps, hose clamps, electrical connections, and support bracket. remove old motor and pump and place in box to discard. Position replacement motor and pump according to diagrams. Reconnect all clips, hoses and connections. Since replacement motor and pump is smaller, use longer support bracket from adapter kit. Return dishwasher to upright position and reconnect wiring using wirenuts, drain hose and waterline. Reposition mattboard strips under legs and slide back into place. Attach screws to counter top. Turn on power, water and do a test run to check for leakage. Replace bottom access panel. Pat yourself on the back since you've saved yourself hundreds of dollars for a repair or replacement of your dishwasher.

The old pump for this 21 year old dishwasher was leaking. Reviewing the cost of a new dishwasher at the big box stores convinced me replacing the part would be much less money.

  • Customer: John from Deep River CT
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I had hoped to be able to do the entire replacement at the floor level through the front panel without moving the dishwasher out of the cabinet. That turned out to be impossible because two of the machine screws holding in the old pump rusted and would not budge.
I did however manage to do the replacement by moving the dishwasher only 16 to 18" out of the cabinet so that I could work on more than one side. A word of advice: Once the pump is disconnected get it out of the house as soon as possible. It will continue to leak on your floor otherwise. No point in getting your pants, shirt and tools all wet.
The best part of this replacement came when I buttoned the whole thing back-up and ran it. This new pump was significantly less noisy than the old one making it possible to stay in the kitchen and actually have a conversation with someone. (My dog no longer leaves either.)
Would I do it again....you bet!

Motor/Pump assembly leaking

  • Customer: Thomas from San Antonio TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I made this replacement more dificult because I removed the old motor/pump earlier. Should have done it at the time I installed the new unit to be sure all hoses where installed correctly. I hooked the drain hose to the wrong port and when I started the dishwasher I found my error. Once I corrected the problem and started it again - the wash and drain cycles were perfect and there were no leaks.

After twelve years the prongs on the top rack began to break and rust.

  • Customer: Jim from Wichita Falls TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I ordered a replacement from partselect.com and received it in just three days. The only difficult part was deciding how to remove the white plastic end caps on the sliding rails. Finally, I took a small screwdrive and pried out the crimps in the metal, pulled the old caps out, inserted the new ones, and squeezed the metal together again using needle-nosed pliers. Nothing to it!
Note: The configuration of the new rack isn't exactly like the original (size and placement of the prongs differ somewhat) but it fits perfectly and works great.

A house mouse tore through the rubber housing

  • Customer: Alan from Rossville GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I pulled the dishwasher out from under the counter. Loosened the collar holding the sump housing to the pump motor. Unscrewed the cover inside the base of dishwasher to release the collection opening of the sump. It's very flexible so I pulled it out by hand. Put the new one in and screwed everything back down. Pushed the dishwasher back under the counter. Simple Simple Simple.

Dishwasher would not Drain

  • Customer: Alfred from Fernandina Beach FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Since the pump and the motor was a single unit, I removed the assembly by disconnecting the electrical plugs and drainage connections. This was a very simple installation. I reversed the above steps, reinstalled the dishwasher and all worked out well.

Dishwasher not draining

  • Customer: Philip from Norton MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Found great information on this site describing the problem. My 9 year old GE Triton dishwasher has not been draining. I thought at first it was something stuck in float somewhere or perhaps a bad pump, but after searching around, I found this site and other stories similar to mine. Most of the reports suggested a worn check valve in the floor of the dishwasher tub, apparently a common issue with some GE models. I removed the strainer located at the back of the tub (4 screws removed w/ 1/4" nutdriver), then unscrewed the check valve to inspect it. Saw that the valve seat was very worn. Ordered the replacement part, received it 4 days later and installed in less than 10 minutes. The best part was I didn't have to remove the dishwasher or crawl underneath to complete the repair. Well worth the $20 for parts & shipping.

water inlet valve leaked

  • Customer: William from Westminster MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I cut the water off to the DW, unscrewed the water connection to the inlet valve, unplugged the electric connection, disconnected the black rubber line from the valve to the washer, removed the 2 screws holding the valve in place. Put the new valve on by doing the above backwards. I also used white thread tape on any connections that needed it.

Valve was leaking

  • Customer: Gerald from Albuquerque NM
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I found that the supplied part did not have threads to receive the bolts that were used in the original part. I had to locate thin nuts and bolts and very awkwardly fit those in behind the part. The orignal part would have just bolted on from the front. I almost returned the part as unsatifactory, but decided to make do. Otherwise it would have been a 10 min job.

water leak, slow

  • Customer: Rose from Orange Park FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
The small 4" gasket was missing from the machine, and the large gasket was bent and out of place. I ordered the small gasket and installed it into the groove, placing the end flaps behind the large gasket. The large gasket was questionable, but I did not replace it. It seemed OK after I snapped it back into the door groove. Once the gaskets were properly aligned, I carefully replaced the inside door panel and screws. No more leak!
All Instructions for the GSD3400G00WW
61-75 of 751