GSD2200G00WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

In the video, they must have been removing new parts from a new machine. 7 year old parts do not come off so easily. You may need a screw driver (I used a plain old dinner knife) to pry up the prong. (Parts went flying as they broke off for good!) I had to use a wrench to get the roller off. BUT, the new part slipped on like "greased lightening." Sooooooo, watch the video, follow their step by step instructions, but be prepared with a tool or 2 since the only reason you are doing this is because it is OLD!!!

Pop the new wheels on. The rear wheels are thinner than the front wheels so rack slides in smoothly

After examining the lower baffles, it was evident that their grooves were bent out of shape and warn. They were simple to pop out, I cleaned the area and popped in the new baffles. Unfortunately, the leak still happened. Upon further examination, the corners of the gaskets where they rubbed against the baffles also looked worn. So I ordered a replacement gasket and gasket insert and just installed them. Problem solved. The instructional videos were exceptionally clear. I'm not particularly handy. If I had not seen the videos online before ordering the parts, I would have called a repair service and spent $150+ more.

I unscrewed the front of the door almost to the bottom hinges and removed the latch. Went on line and ordered a replacement. The replacement arrived in a couple days (yeh), was identical to the one I had removed. I could have used another hand but went ahead and replaced it myself. It worked perfectly and I screwed everything back in place. I'm a 73-year-old female, good at taking things apart but not always good at putting them back together but will try anything. Was elated that I could repair it and it actually worked. Great service from your company!

There is no repair easier than this! Simply remove the decayed gaskets and replace with new. No tools, no glue, no nothin'.

Just watch the video and you will be fine. The only thing I would suggest is buying both your rack slide end caps because with the age of my machine they were brittle and cracked/broke where they were supposed to only bend. Spend the extra $.64 and you will be glad you did.

well, having read the previous customers installation comments, i was prepared to have issues with the little clips that go in the tracks for the top rack. however, it was much easier than anticipated. all you have to do is bend the tab out so the clip will easily slide into the track and clip into place. no twisting or funny angles needed. for removing them, just use a flathead screwdriver to get in the track and bend the tab out so they easily slide out. super simple.

This was a 45 min project. New pump was a redesign. Match your style with the instruction sheet. ( pictures are upside down) Install drain on pump. Remove wirng connectors(3) and hanger. Raemove in/out pump clamps, and remove pump. Reverse procedure( I had to bend the new hanger to fit). When I first fired it up, nothing happened for about 5 min. Then water got into the pump and it started working. Quieter, more powerful spray. Grabbed a beer.

Opened the front door, replaced the right and left rubber baffles, which you just set in place, and replaced a missing wheel on the lower rack. Closed the door and ran the dishwasher through it's cycle, no more leaks!

open packages of baffles, installed per video, done, no leak!

The initial problem was that the top rack was difficult to slide out. I purchased a new set of upper rollers. In order to remove the roller you must slide it off the rail. To do this, you must first remove the end cap. I broke the end original end cap trying to do this. The new roller installation was simple. So was the installation of the new end cap. Simply press it on.

After shutting off the water and switching off the electric, I removed the lower panels and disconnected both. I then pulled the unit out and set it on its back. I removed the related hoses and moved the pump to the side. Using a 2" X 6" piece of PVC pipe, I removed the wash arm rubber connector which had a small slit in it and installed the new one with the PVC pipe. After reconnecting the hoses and reversing the process, I powered up the unit resulting in another successful repair with the help of Parts Select.com.

the parts were delivered quickly. i removed the lower rack. the rollers were ready to install. they simply snapped on the post. Done! i placed the rack back in its place and they fixed the problem.

This repair was not difficult except that the part was hard to get to. You need to lay on the ground and the space is small to fit the tools in. It was especially difficult to squeeze the hose clamp on and off. If you are the handy sort and would not be intimidated by pulling the dishwasher out (like I was), then I recommend doing that. Changing the actual part was a breeze and self explanatory. Be sure to shut off the power and water supply to the dishwasher. Bring a towel to soak up residual water in the hose. Watch the video on this site, it was exactly what I needed to see! I was able to fix my mom's dishwasher! What a great feeling!

took the front covers off, used om meter as suggested after disconnecting the wire plug. discovered infinity, so as suggested, determined the valve defective. Ordered over the new valve from this company. After it arrived, took the old valve off by removing it from the bracket. Used the pliers to take the hose off, then unscrewed the supply hose by usung the adjustable wrench. Took the old valve to my shop vise to hold it firmly, then unscrewed the fitting, wrapped the tape suggested and installed it on the new valve. Took it back to the dishwasher, screwed the supply hose on, slipped the hose on and the clamp, turned on the water to check for leaks. Found non, so installed the valve on the frame, turned on the power and checked for filling. Itfilled fine and operated like it was supposed to. Put the front covers back on, and enjoyed praise from wife!!!