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GS6SHEXNL00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for GS6SHEXNL00 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the GS6SHEXNL00
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Fridge made noise and the center post was HOT!

  • Customer: David from Jefferson City, MO
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 33 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
We have a side-by-side fridge/freezer and we experienced a hot center post (where doors come together) and the fridge made loud noise. Also, the (old) fan motor would start, but then quit, so our issue was the motor.

For me the repair was very easy, but for an unexperienced person it may prove to be difficult. If you must order a motor/fan, do NOT order the metal fan as a plastic fan comes with the motor. What's strange is the new motor is different than the old one, but it still mounted without any required modifications. I did NOT use the wire harness that came with the motor either as it was different too, but my old one was still good.

Check all of your parts as my fan had a cracked blade, but I used "superglue" and it's fine now.

Fridge stays cold and my wife had to lower the temperature in the fridge as she was blasted by the cold!

old condenser fan motor shaft was loose and it made the spinning fan blades shake and cause noise

  • Customer: Christopher from Snow Camp, NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 31 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
The procedure was straightforward. I removed the cardboard backing on the lower back of the refrigerator to expose the fan unit. I then undid the electrical harness at the fan. I then removed the three screws securing the fan motor to the metal bracket. This is the hardest part in that I had to reach through and get to the screws with my small tools. I then removed the old motor and blades and placed the new motor and blades. Again, a bit tricky trying to get the three screws mounted into the bracket...small tools and hands helps. After that I used the electrical harness supplied with the kit to plug into the new motor and I was done.

KITCHEN AID SIDE-BY-SIDE REFRIGERATOR ICE-MAKER stopped working due to a broken motor assembly.

  • Customer: ANDREW from DURANGO, CO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 38 of 54 people found this instruction helpful
Changing the KITCHENAID MOTOR ASSEMBLY TO THE ICE-MAKER was fairly straightforward. The hardest part was figuring out WHAT was broken and how to fix it. I was determined to save myself hundreds of dollars by doing it myself and avoiding a visit by the 'repairman'.

1.) Went to KitchenAid website to look at Parts List for my side-by-side refrigerator and ice maker assembly (a PDF file, easily downloadable) . The illustrations helped me visualize the assembly and various parts involved.
2.) Removed cover on front of ice maker.
3.) Removed hex-head screw on undersurface of icemaker on the right, which stablilizes a plastic cover for the electrical connector to the ice maker. Once this is off, it's then possible to slide the ice maker out.
4.) Slide the ice maker out from it's 'shelf' in the freezer. You won't be able to completely remove it until you disconnect the power supply.
5.) Disconnect the multi-pin power connector. (It's probably safest to unplug the refrigerator altogether before doing this, but I did not. No exposed metal wiring or connectors. No problems when I did it this way.)
6.) Once the ice-maker was out, remove the white cover from the motor assembly (on the left side of the unit).
7.) Remove the three screws from the black housing of the motor assembly. (This is where I discovered that the connector between the motor and drive-train was broken and needed to be replaced.)
8.) Remove and replace the drive system for the ice cube ejector.
9.) Then reverse the steps to reassemble.

This may seem a bit vague, but it's really quite straightforward once the ice maker is out of the freezer. The replacement motor assembly includes the motor, the motor housing, the drive-train, and the ice-cube ejector. Very easy to re-asemble.

Shopping for and ordering the part took some time since there are so many different after-market parts dealers. In all honesty, I'm glad I decided on PartSelect.com. They had a decent price, safe checkout, and timely delivery. All the essentials of a good online store.

Thanks, and good luck to the next guy who has to deal with a KitchenAid snafu.

No Ice, Water did not fill icemaker

  • Customer: Barbara from Davenport, IA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 35 of 49 people found this instruction helpful
We weren't sure if the problem was in the Water Inlet Valve or in the Icemaker Control & Motor Assembly. The water in the door did work. We removed the Water Inlet Valve & tested it with an Ohm Meter. It tested good so we put it back in. We then ordered the Icemaker Control & Motor Assembly. When it arrived we installed it and waited a few hours but the icemaker still did not fill with water. We telephoned a parts store and were told the problem could be the thermostat or we could replace the whole icemaker. We replaced the whole icemaker.

Excessive noise was coming from the freezer section of my side be side refrigerator

  • Customer: Jon from Houston, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 28 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
Cleaning out the freezer took the longest time. Once the freezer was clean I turned off the freezer which did not deactivate the light in the freezer. This is a tight area to work in and not having to hold a flashlight made the job much easier. I then removed the shelf slider brackets for the 3 lower pullout drawers. The next step was to remove the interior aluminum back panel (6 screws) which covers the evaporator motor and the coil. Before removing the 3 electric wires that are attached to the evaporator motor make sure the power is off to the motor. The removal of the motor was fairly straightforward and I would suggest removing the plastic fan blade first and then the connector wires. It helped knowing in advance that the plastic fan blade would come off with a little prying. Be careful when prying the fan off so that you don’t damage the plastic motor mount bracket. Once you have installed the motor I would suggest turning the freezer back on to make sure that the evaporator motor works before reinstalling the aluminum back panel and slider brackets.

Refrigerator Wasn't Cooling,Evaporater Coil Freezing Up

  • Customer: Robert from Doral, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 31 of 39 people found this instruction helpful
I have a side by side so in order to access the bi-metal switch I first had to empty out the freezer. The switch is clipped on to the top of the evaporator coil. I had to remove 8 screws to remove the back panel of the freezer compartment. The bi-metal switch was right there in plain view. There are two colored wires that come out of the switch. I tried pulling them out of the socket they were plugged into but gave up for fear of breaking something. I ended up cutting the wires and splicing them together. I used the plastic twist caps. I made sure when I closed everything back up that the open end of the caps were pointing down so no water can accumulate in them. It has been 3 days now and so far so good

Door was making a clunking noise

  • Customer: Erik from Yorba Linda, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 26 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
The door is very easy to remove. There is one nut for the cap on the top of the soor hinge. Once the cap is removed, you need to remove the 3 nuts holding the hinge in place. Simply lift the door off the lower hinge and rest it on the dining room table. I set towels down to protect the stainless finish. The closing cam will be visible on the bottom of the door. I choose to replace the lower cam and the upper cam at the same time. I did not know what the problem cam was. The door works good as new. I put a small amount of vaseline where the two cams rub to provide a lubricant.

water to ice maker not shutting off; overflowing

  • Customer: g anthony from salt lake city, UT
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 27 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
1. turn off power.
2. pop off ice maker cover to access motor assembly.
3. remove three screws to assembly.
4. pull off assembly.
5. attach new assembly making sure metal arm and plastic
ice tray rod align with assembly.
6. screw assembly onto unit.
7. replace cover.
8. plug in refrigerator.
9. enjoy ice again with no leakage into freezer.

ice maker did not work. Water came in, however, unit woud not eject ice.

  • Customer: Larry from Morgan, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 26 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
I unplugged the refrigerator, then I taped ice shield up to top of refrigerator and taped the little flap on the left side of the refrigerator to side wall then I unscrewed one screw on the right side that holds the plug cover, which was then removed. I then updid the little latches on the icemaker and pulled the old ice maker out far enough to unplug the connector, which was not easy, but did unplug. I then unscrewed the three screws with the nutdriver and attached the bottom cover to the new ice maker. I then slid the new icemaker far enough to connect the electrical connector, then slid the new icemaker in until it latched. I replaced the connector cover and untaped the two items that had been taped and pluged the refrigerator into the wall socket. The new icemaker has produced ice every since.

The ice maker stopped producing ice.

  • Customer: Robert E. from Payson, UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 24 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
If you remove the bottom vent panel of the refrigerator there are two schematics for the refrigerator. One for the fridge and one for the icemaker. The icemaker has an emitter and a receiver that will tell the icemaker when it is ok to dump ice and add water. The receiver has an LED that blinks different codes. The codes give you an idea where your problem is located. In my case it coded out to be the optics (emitter and receiver). Replacement of the parts involves the removal of three screws on each component and disconnecting a wire harness on each component. Install the new components by following the removal process in reverse. The total cost was $80.00. This was half the price Sears wanted for the parts and about the same price to have a Sears repairman just show up at the house.

Replacment of Ice/Water Filter

  • Customer: Robert from Mount Prospect, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 24 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
The first step was to go to PartSelect.com to find where the filter is located because that is not revealed in Whirlpool's Guide. This refrigerator came with the home I had just puchased so Iwas unfamiliar with the filter replacement. Th filter is on the grill at the bottom of the refrigerator. I followed the instructions helpfully printed on the replacement cartridge box which arrived in less than the 3-5 days acknowledged on my order.

Turn the filter handle 1/4 turn counterclockwise. Don't be timid. It was very tight (probably had not been replaced ever). Remove the filter from the handle that protrudes through the grill at the bottom of the front of the refrigerator.

Insert the new cartridge into the filter handle insert snugly until it goes no further and turn 1/4 clockwise.

The instructions on the replacement cartridge tell you to run the water for 5 minutes to remove air and sediment from the system. DO NOT skip this step. I was. I discovered a large amount of sediment after even three minutes of flushing. A 5-gallon pale will help. And don't forget to turn off the ice maker while you are flushing. Otherwise you will end up with ice cubes everywhere as you try to position the bucket under the water dispenser.

Icemaker arm was broken

  • Customer: Jason from Austin, TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 26 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
The tiny piece of plastic that holds the wire that shuts off the icemaker, broke early on with our fridge (after just a few months.) We superglued it, but last week it bit the dust for good.

Once I got this part, I removed the freezer door and trays, and pulled the icemaker out by removing 3 flathead screws and unplugging the cables. Laying in the freezer on the floor was a bit unconfortable, but not too bad.

Then I inspected the icemaker. There was no obvious way to remove the part without disassembling the front of the unit (where the motor is) to release the spindle and free the part, so I did that - 3 or 4 nuts was all that held it together. Once that was out, I removed the spindle, swapped out the part, and put it all back together and back in the freezer. Plugged it in and waited.

It took a while to start making ice. Like 5 hours. Now it's going pretty slow (much slower than before.) Haven't had time to look into it, but my suspicion is the rubber hose that feeds water into the icemaker is blocked with ice or kinked. In any case, we have ice now (but not a lot), and the unit shuts itself off properly. However, we went from having too much ice (thing never shut off) to too little (thing makes ice too slow), so I need to shoot for somewhere in the middle ;)

We noticed the Refridgerator door had dropped and found the lower cams to be broken and worn.

  • Customer: Tom from Allendale, MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 25 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the bolt that holds the cover on the top hinge bracket. Then I removed all items from the shelves inside the door by lifting the shelves out and placing them on the counter. Next I removed the 3 screws holding the hinge bracket on, this disconnects the top of the door from the cabinet. Then I lifted the door off the lower cam, removed the screws that held the cam in place on the door and the lower bracket on the cabinet and replaced the cams. I smeared some Vaselene on the cams and placed the door back on the lower cam, reconnected the upper hinge and replaced the hinge cover. All done and it works great!

Door chute broken

  • Customer: Dwight from Marietta, OK
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 27 of 37 people found this instruction helpful
First removed the outside cover plate which was some what scary not to break plastic cover. Had read about another discription of removal of cover to start from the bottom because the top is inserted in slots that would have broken if removed from the top. After cover plate removed it was simple to remove the broken parts and install the new parts. The most difficult part to put back in was the spring and rod had to be inserted the same time.

The interior lighting nor the temperature setting display would work when the refrigerator door was opened.

  • Customer: Kenneth from Pinson, AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 23 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
First, I unplugged the refrigerator. Then, I removed the cardboard cover from the rear of the fridge, using a 1/4" nut driver, removed the white plastic box on the rear left side (this box houses the control board), using the same 1/4" nut driver. I then replaced the control board, using no tools, plugged the fridge back in and checked operation. All ok and working great!! By the way, while the old control board is out of the way, this is the perfect time to vacuum out all of that dust, lint, etc. that will be found on the black condenser coil, located just behind the compressor and control board. This coil extends from the rear to the front of the refrigerator. The front section of the coil can be accessed by removing the white front panel just above the floor. Again, no tools needed. Easy from beginning to end!!
All Instructions for the GS6SHEXNL00
46-60 of 1,433