GS395LEGZ0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

I pulled the range from the wall and disconnected the power cord. I removed the grates, burner caps and the burners from the cooktop. Using a plastic putty knife, on either side of the range in the front I pushed the retaining clips to allow the cooktop to be raised. I used a short board to keep the cooktop open. I cut the wire leading to the broken igniter and removed the old igniter. I put the new ignitor in the mounting hole. The igniter wire connects to the spark module which is in the back of the range. To access the module I removed three top screws on the backplate(you have to get behind the range) and removed the top access panel. I used the old wire to pull the new wire through to the module. I disconnected the old wire from the module and connected the new one.

Reassembly was easy. I replaced the backplate and screws, lowered the cooktop, replaced the burners, caps and grates. I plugged the power cord back in and slid the range back.

well had I known that the trim did not go over the glass, the project would have been easy, but I thought the trim held the glass in, but that was not the case. After much juggling discovered that the trim went under the glass, and at that point the instilation was very easy.

Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cover

Broken ignitor wire had been previously removed to determine part number. Exact length was not availible (37"), but similiar unit (36") (one inch shorter) worked with zero problems. To re-install replacement wire/ignitor, I removed all four grates, and surface burners (allows top surface to pivot upwards.) Raised front of stove top surface by pushing in side, hold-down clips, using butter knife. Propped up surface with board. Insert clip end of igniter lead through hole in top surface and led wire back and towards passage to rear plug-in terminal location. Removed upper, rear sheet metal cover plate (must pull entire range away from wall.) Fed thin/ some-what-stiff safety wire down through plastic protection sleeve (all four ignitor wires go through the sleeve.) Wrapped wire around clip on end of igniter lead, pulled igniter wire up through plastic protector sleeve, disconnected pull through wire, and pushed connector clip on ignitor wire into ignitor terminal block. The rest was nothing more than screwing things back together in reverse order.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

screwed in the new glide by taking out old broken one and screwing in new one. wife happy now.

PS733869 Door Trim Kit - Since I was replacing broken and discarded trim parts and had taken the replacements out of their identifying boxes I had some unneccessary difficulty since the parts are not marked. Point to reference is that the 9/16 side of the trim goes on the OUTSIDE EDGE of the door and the glass and handle are attached AFTER the trim is installed. Glass goes OVER the trim and not held in by it, the handle and the lower bracket does that.

I had already removed the 2 plates in the bottom of the oven to take an initial look. After not finding anything obvious, and searching on line for advice, I ordered the igniter. After the igniter arrived it was a matter of removing 2 screws, pulling out the lower drawer to gain access to the igniter disconnect, and done.

thanks for getting the correct part to me so quickly. Also the diagram and part number search was right on the money!

We removed the door from oven assembly and laying it flat on the bench removed the stainless steel cover from the rest of the door. Removing the shattered pieces of safety glass was done heating and scraping off vinyl tape.(difficult.)Caution! Do not allow any pieces of glass get under the stainless steel cover, it will leave ugly scratches! We purchased double sided vinyl tape 1/2" wide, 1/16" thick and aluminum "Flue tape" (600 deg. F) 1 1/2" wide from local hardware store to replace the original ones in their previous location. Fitting the new glass on sticky tape has to be done accurately. (no problem). Assembling it was little tricky but still within the ability of a do-it-selfers. We wondered if we should not put the rough side of the glass facing in or out. The original was with the smooth side out so that what we did. If any additional scraping of accumulated grease is needed especially on the inside glass, it requires more disassembly, but we would strongly suggest doing it (we did), while it is all opened. To our surprise the glass arrived by Fed Ex within 24 hours of ordering and now our Whirlpool is gleaming like new again. The cost of this product with shipping/handling by PartsSelect was much lower than ordering it from the other "original" source. Thank you! Sincerely Fred T.

Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.

1st; I opened the door, 2nd; removed the keepers that prevent the door from coming unhinged. 3rd; placed 2 short screws in the holes in the hinges. 4th; raised the door until it stopped. 5th; lifted the door upward and slid the hinges out of the slots in the range. 6th; laid the door face up on a microwave stand. With a handle on the outside, and hinges sticking out of the inside, it was inpossible to lay the door flat on a larger surface, and get around it. 7th; removed 2 screws from the inside top, and the 8 screws from the very bottom. 8th; removed the bottom rail, and the handle assembly. From there everything was stacked pieces. Picked the glass front up, and carefully set it safely aside. Picked each piece up and cleaned it, and started the re-assembly. The hardest part of the process was getting the fiberglass rope around the inside glass, to stay in place during the initial re-assembly. From there, the assembly was just the reverse order. the process was about 1 hour and 20 minutes, due to lack instructions and practice, plus cleaning, finding screws, and tools, Instructions may have been on line, but I didn't find them. The new hinges came with pins in place, and should have come with an extra set to lock the old hinges.

Removed the trim by unscrewing 5 screws being careful not to drop glass panel. Had to scrape and paint over rust stains on the glass panel. After paint dried reinstalled with new trim (remodeled part only required 3 screws). Just a little tricky getting screws started while holding up the glass panel.

I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I removed the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!

Part came super fast, remove and replace two screws - nothing to it