Models > GMC305PRS01 > Instructions

GMC305PRS01 Whirlpool Oven - Instructions

All installation instructions for GMC305PRS01 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the oven repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the GMC305PRS01
31-45 of 153
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Loose terminal caused block to overheat and break

  • Customer: Dana from Black Mountain NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

Door spring broke (spring lightens the door when opening/closing)

  • Customer: Brian from Roseville CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Just had to remove the screws holding the outer part of the door on (didn't have to take off the entire door). Using the other door spring (most models have two that cross) as an example, the new spring was fairly easy to place. Only problem is that the new spring was made from a smaller gauge metal and is not nearly as strong as the original, making the door feel heavier when opening/closing than before. The difference with and without the 2nd spring is barely noticeable. Had I known that they were making the parts cheaper now, I would'nt have bothered fixing it at all.

Bake oven element was not heating up

  • Customer: Sunil from Princeton Junction NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
With little reluctance..I decided to change the part myself..but was very satisfied...with two screws to detach the bake oven and install the new one.I was very happy to receive the replacement part within 24 hours of placing the order with Part select.

Oven wouldn't heat after a cleaning cycle

  • Customer: Robert from Willow Park TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Recieved the part promptly. From looking at the diagrams, we knew the overload thermostat was located on the back of the oven. We removed the screws, brackets, etc, slid the oven out, which for us was fairly easy as it's an under counter oven. Located the thermostat, removed it, replaced the new one, connected two clip wires, replaced the oven, turned the power back on and it works like a champ. Total cost was under 50 bucks.

quit heating

  • Customer: karen from bismarck ND
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I have a rental and the tenant called. She said that she had a repair man out to fix the oven but he couldn't~that it needed to be replaced as he could not get parts.I contacted your company via phone and the person was so helpful~he asked the problem, looked up the model and advised me on this!It works like a brand new oven!Thanks you

I chipped my cook tray dish for my microwave

  • Customer: Barbara from Sparks NV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I took out the old chipped dish and replaced with the new dish...

Broken inner door glass on wall oven

  • Customer: Ronald from Scottsdale AZ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
The inner glass on the wall oven shattered (apparently a common problem). Rather than look at a new $2-3,000 oven, I found the part for around $30. The repair was actually fairly easy, just had to be careful with the glass panes.
I did not remove the door completely, just worked on it either open or closed, depending on the step. First I loosened the two screws on the bottom of the door (when closed). Then I removed the four screws on the inside of the door and the two on the top part of the door (2). This allowed the outer panel to slide out and be removed.
Then there are two middle panes, held on by small clips with two screws in each. Remove one at a time, being careful not to drop any of the glass on the floor! Remember the order of the glass and the clips, so you can replace in the same order. (Now's a good time to clean all of the inner panes also, and to vacuum out the interior of the door.)
Lay these panes aside, and you should be to the broken inner pane, held on by a metal panel--again remove a couple screws, the panel, and remove all the broken glass. Be careful to retain all the insulation around the glass, and replace the glass, then the metal panel, the inner panes, and the outer door panel in that order. The outer panel should slide into place if you remove one clip and screw and start on one side, then replace the clip.

Inner glass to oven door shattered

  • Customer: Robert from Forsyth MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the 6 screws securing the door and inner frame unit. Lifted off the frame and inner glass unit. Then, after cleaning all the broken glass, put the new glass in; first reattaching the inner frame and then the outer door cover.

lighting strike

  • Customer: Frank from Silverhill AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
replaced the suppressor and terminal block oven works

Inner glass door cracked

  • Customer: Carmen from Redlands CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Kept removing screws and pulled things out until I got to the inner glass.
Yep, clueless and never did this before.
Put everything back in the opposite order of taking it out. Wala it's fixed.
Repair people wanted over $300 for parts and labor. However, with Partselect I was able to fix it for under $50.00 Well worth it!
Carmen

Cracked inner door glass on oven

  • Customer: Thomas from Rockville Centre NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I am not the handiest guy around so i was a little nervous doing this job but figured i would take a crack at it ( no pun intended). Took the door off as per instructions from kitchenaid , unscrewed all the outer screws , took off the back of door unscrewed the metal bar holding the glass in ( there are 3 levels of glass) took the 2 good glass sheets out got to the broken glass removed that put the new one in , replaced all the other glass and screws and put door back on, and i felt so proud. Probably saved about 150 dollars by doing it myself. I feel so proud.

Taking the door apart.

  • Customer: R G from Orlando FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
This was more difficult than anticipated - probably because I'd never done it before. Once I got the door off (I didn't have the proper pins and used nails but didn't realize they had to be headless) I found all the screws, which were relatively easy to take out. I was surprised that the thermal door glass was obscured by two other panes of glass. It took more disassembly than anticipated and a few false starts when reassembling, but all in all it got done. I was happy that a job that would have cost probably $300 or more ended up getting done for $40 plus my labor - which isn't worth much these days. I'd certaily do it again.

Replacing inner glass on oven door

  • Customer: Kel from Denver CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
The other comments from folks who had done this were very helpful!
I had to go look up the directions for removing the door. To do this flip the latches on the hinges and then close the door as far as you can and pull up, it will come out.
Now lay the door flat on the kitchen counter and take out the 6 screws you can see on the edges and inside of the door. They are all the same so you don't have to keep them organized. Now you can take off the outer door with the handle (lift the inner door out since you will have the door face down at this point) and get it out if the way. Remove the hinges and set them aside but don't get them mixed up.
Next, take out the screws on the inner glass rails, there are two rails. Keep those rails in order for replacement. Take out the middle glass and clean it (this took oven cleaner and a razor blade on the one I had).
Take the middle of the door apart and expose the soft gasket (don't move it!). Clean out any broken glass and Insert your new glass. Put the middle piece of the door back on and line up all the screw holes! Put the first of the glass rails back on and the cleaned middle glass back in place, then the second glass rail. Put in the two screws that hold the glass rails.
Now you are ready to put the door back together. USE THE BOX TO HOLD THE DOOR OFF THE COUNTER WHILE YOU PUT THE HINGES BACK IN AND PUT THE DOOR FRONT BACK ON! If the screw holes don't all line up start the screws and work your way around, you'll get them to go in.
Voila! Door fixed.

My microwave began suddenly making a loud humming noise while cooking food.

  • Customer: Lindsay from Nampa ID
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 55 of 160 people found this instruction helpful
My microwave began suddenly making a loud harsh humming noise while cooking food. I did not let it go on long enough to know if it cooked the food or not. I did some Internet research and learned that it was likely the Magnetron. The test for this was to run the microwave for at least a minute on the lowest power setting and see if the noise cycled on and off. It did, so I (actually, my wife) ordered the part from partselect.com using the model number. I was successful in replacing the part, and we are back to microwave popcorn and quick defrost for a price that was less than a service call, however, it was time consuming, required a large work area, and access to 5 out of 6 sides of the unit. So proceed at your own discretion

Caution:

The first thing in every set of repair instructions was to discharge (short-circuit) the capacitor, as it may store large (as in lethal) amounts of electricity even when it is not connected to a power source. I had never done this, but found these instructions:

“Discharging your microwave's capacitor is absolutely essential in preventing injury to your microwave, your tools, and yourself. A capacitor stores a large amount of electricity even when your microwave is unplugged, and it must be discharged before beginning any repair.
A capacitor is discharged by creating a short circuit between each of the two capacitor terminals, and between each terminal and the chassis. The chassis is the metal mounting (bare metal surface) of the capacitor. Read these directions thoroughly before you proceed.
With your microwave unit unplugged, touch the blade of a well insulated screwdriver to one terminal. Gently slide the screwdriver forward until it reaches the other terminal, holding it there for a few seconds. Be aware that this often results in a loud and startling 'POP'.
Repeat this procedure in order to create a short circuit between each capacitor terminal and the chassis (bare metal mounting plate surface). This same method can be applied to a capacitor having three, and not two, terminals.”
I had not run my microwave in over a week, and then while my part was shipping, left my microwave 'unplugged' for more than two days, and my capacitor apparently discharged itself, although I did go through the above procedure carefully and completely - just in case.
Step-By-Step:
1. You must remove your microwave from the cabinets - it is impossible to repair otherwise. This is best accomplished with 2 strong people - my wife and I made it work, but wished for another guy.
a. While supporting the microwave, remove the two screws coming down through the cabinet above.
b. Lift the rear of the microwave as much as possible, then tilt the front down - there is a clip high on the left side, as well as the hinge/clips on the bottom.
c. If you do not lift it off the wall all at once, you may have to lift the rear even farther to remove it from the hinge/clips on the bottom.
Important Note: Always beware of the microwave door, if it is bent or broken and cannot retain a seal, the microwave not function as a safety feature to keep from releasing microwaves.
2. Remove the vent cover on the top/front of the microwave - be careful, it's plastic.
3. Remove the vent cover and light panel on the bottom of the microwave - this is several screws and some simple wire clips.
4. Remove the "shell" (top and sides) of the microwave - this is several more screws on the back. Make sure to remove the plate that is holding the cord in place on the top.
5. Remove the interface panel by the screws on the top (which had been hidden by the vent cover) - the wires can remain attached, just slide it aside.
6. Remove the metal cover on the right side at the rear; this will expose the Magnetron and the Capacitor. Remember to immediately test and discharge the capacitor!

7. After you discharge the capacitor, remove the other cover plate and the support bracket - in case you haven't noticed, this is a time and space consuming operation.

8. You

I snapped a bolt on the main power terminal block when connecting the pigtail.

  • Customer: Frank from Palm Coast FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.
All Instructions for the GMC305PRS01
31-45 of 153