GMC275PDQ0 Whirlpool Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

The first thing I did was to remove the oven door by releasing the two latches on the hinges (by hand). I then raised the door toward the vertical position and lifted up. The hinges slide out of the oven housing. I laid the door, inside face up on my island counter top. This ensures that none of the parts will fall when disassembling the door. Next I unscrewed the screws 4 top and bottom and four on the inside face. This releases the frame from the front housing. Lift the frame off the door, exposing the glass pieces. Lift off the broken inside glass and place the new piece in the glass retaining housing. Replace the outside frame and replace all screws. Take door back over to oven and slide hinge bottoms back into slots on oven. Rotate to horizontal position and flip latches back to locked position. Total time was about 10 minutes mainly because I was curious how the door was constructed and I poked around while it was disassembled.

I removed the two screws that held the bake element in place. Next I removed the Bake Element. I had to unscrew the oven to go behind it because when one piece off of the element broke, it slide back behind the oven. I pushed the wire back thru the piece holes, connected the Element, and pushed the element with the wires back through the holes. I rescrewed the element in place and the oven. PartSelect helped me to save this year's Christmas.

My microwave began suddenly making a loud harsh humming noise while cooking food. I did not let it go on long enough to know if it cooked the food or not. I did some Internet research and learned that it was likely the Magnetron. The test for this was to run the microwave for at least a minute on the lowest power setting and see if the noise cycled on and off. It did, so I (actually, my wife) ordered the part from partselect.com using the model number. I was successful in replacing the part, and we are back to microwave popcorn and quick defrost for a price that was less than a service call, however, it was time consuming, required a large work area, and access to 5 out of 6 sides of the unit. So proceed at your own discretion

Caution:

The first thing in every set of repair instructions was to discharge (short-circuit) the capacitor, as it may store large (as in lethal) amounts of electricity even when it is not connected to a power source. I had never done this, but found these instructions:

“Discharging your microwave's capacitor is absolutely essential in preventing injury to your microwave, your tools, and yourself. A capacitor stores a large amount of electricity even when your microwave is unplugged, and it must be discharged before beginning any repair.
A capacitor is discharged by creating a short circuit between each of the two capacitor terminals, and between each terminal and the chassis. The chassis is the metal mounting (bare metal surface) of the capacitor. Read these directions thoroughly before you proceed.
With your microwave unit unplugged, touch the blade of a well insulated screwdriver to one terminal. Gently slide the screwdriver forward until it reaches the other terminal, holding it there for a few seconds. Be aware that this often results in a loud and startling 'POP'.
Repeat this procedure in order to create a short circuit between each capacitor terminal and the chassis (bare metal mounting plate surface). This same method can be applied to a capacitor having three, and not two, terminals.”
I had not run my microwave in over a week, and then while my part was shipping, left my microwave 'unplugged' for more than two days, and my capacitor apparently discharged itself, although I did go through the above procedure carefully and completely - just in case.
Step-By-Step:
1. You must remove your microwave from the cabinets - it is impossible to repair otherwise. This is best accomplished with 2 strong people - my wife and I made it work, but wished for another guy.
a. While supporting the microwave, remove the two screws coming down through the cabinet above.
b. Lift the rear of the microwave as much as possible, then tilt the front down - there is a clip high on the left side, as well as the hinge/clips on the bottom.
c. If you do not lift it off the wall all at once, you may have to lift the rear even farther to remove it from the hinge/clips on the bottom.
Important Note: Always beware of the microwave door, if it is bent or broken and cannot retain a seal, the microwave not function as a safety feature to keep from releasing microwaves.
2. Remove the vent cover on the top/front of the microwave - be careful, it's plastic.
3. Remove the vent cover and light panel on the bottom of the microwave - this is several screws and some simple wire clips.
4. Remove the "shell" (top and sides) of the microwave - this is several more screws on the back. Make sure to remove the plate that is holding the cord in place on the top.
5. Remove the interface panel by the screws on the top (which had been hidden by the vent cover) - the wires can remain attached, just slide it aside.
6. Remove the metal cover on the right side at the rear; this will expose the Magnetron and the Capacitor. Remember to immediately test and discharge the capacitor!

7. After you discharge the capacitor, remove the other cover plate and the support bracket - in case you haven't noticed, this is a time and space consuming operation.

8. You

It was easy to remove the old element. It only required the removal of two screws and pulling apart the electric connectors. It was just as simple to install the new one.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

After popping the last few kernals of popcorn, we hear a different kind of pop sound come from our microwave oven. When we looking inside, we found that the glass turntable had broken unevenly in half. Although we didn't understand why it had happned, we did know we'd be without the use of the microwave without a new one. After less than 10 minutes surfing online, I had found the correct part on PartSelect.com and had arranged to have it shipped to me by speedy delivery. Once it arrived, I just popped the new turntable into the microwave and used the box to dispose of the broken one. It could not have been easier and it saved me the cost of a service call and likely further delay.

Turned the power to the oven off. Took two crews out. Disconnected the old unit, connected the new unit, put the two screws back in and tested the unit.

My unit is a wall mount/cabinet/built-in model. The repair is actually fairly simple once you determine that the actual microwave is just a component of the entire unit, and that it (the microwave) can be easily removed from the unit. I did not figure this out until after I removed the entire unit (disconnect the power supply, lift the entire bulky, heavy unit out of the cramped space in the cabinet, etc). Once I got it out I figured out how easy it is to remove the actual oven - a couple of screws, literally. The unit is a bit bulky, but not particularly heavy and is quite manageable. I did this entire process alone.

I got the oven out, rolled it on it's side and found the plate to access the motor. The plate is located on the bottom/underside of the unit. The plate is nothing more than a section of the underside of the metal housing that has been cut-out as an access point. This "cut-out" is not complete - that is, not completely cut out so as to all the plate to stay in place without the need for screws, etc, until you actually have to use it. I used a pair of dykes to cut the couple of points still connecting this plate, removed the two phillips screws to remove the motor, disconnected the two wires connected, then reversed to complete the repair. You then flip the cut-out plate over/rotate it, and some screw holes line up. Find a couple of small screws, and re-attach the plate to cover the motor.

The actual fix is really easy, again, once you figure out the simple way to remove the oven. I am an idiot, so you will probably find this much easier. I could probably do this repair now, after my experience, in less than 30 minutes (probably less than 15 minutes). I probably save a couple hundred $ by doing it myself so was well worth the time to do it. Good luck.

Very easy once we figured out how to remove the oven door - which was insert the Allen keys in the holes in the hinges and pull the door out. We thought there was some way of using the Allen key to undo a pin or bolt but it was as simple as putting it through the hole in the hinge !!!!!

I used a cordless screwdriver to remove the retaing screws. One of the connections was pucshed back too far and was almost hidden in the hole. I used the tweezers to pull it out, replace the bake lelement and the retaining screws. I'm good to go!

2 screws &2 push pull wires.

With little reluctance..I decided to change the part myself..but was very satisfied...with two screws to detach the bake oven and install the new one.I was very happy to receive the replacement part within 24 hours of placing the order with Part select.

Once I figured out to get the door off, the actual replacement went well.
remove door, using allen wrenches in the holes of the door
remove outer glass - two screws on top, four screws along sides of inside door, two brackets on the bottom
that revealed anothe sheet of glass- held into place by a metal flange at the top (3 screws) and two brackets at the bottom. Pay close attention to how they are mounted for reassembly. They are the same physical configuration, but mount differently to hold glass up from the surface below
That reveals another sheet of glass held into place by two "ears" at the top and a bracket at the bottom.
When that is removed, the next thing to come off is a metal housing on which the glass just removed was mounted. I elected to leave the door hinge springs in place, and slide the metal housing in and out of position. That reveals the glass which needed replacement.
There is some insulation around the glass, but under the metal housing. It came out when I slid the metal out, which moved it from its location, but I think I got it back ok...be sure that it does not sitck out around the glass when you reassemble everything. Put everything back in place, replace the door and remove the allen wrenches. Done. Parts select had the product, and sent it very quickly.

Ordered the glass and read the other reviews/instructions on the PartSelect site. Also read the instructions in my owner's manual for removing the oven door. The hardest part of replacing the glass was the removal and replacement of the door. Once I had the door out, replacing the glass was as simple as removing about 8 or so screws, lifting off the cover and replacing the glass, then replacing the screws. One of the hinges on the door had closed and I was not able to open it to replace the door, so I had to have a neighbor come over to over his muscle power. The hinge problem should not have happened and without that little issue, this is a simple repair that I'm sure saved me at least $100.00 on repairman! And - I'm a woman!

1)Power off 2) Remove frame covering front timer display - screw on the bottom 3) unscrew time display - 4 screws 4) unsnap lamp spring clip 5)replace lamp