Models > GLTF1670AS0 > Instructions

GLTF1670AS0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for GLTF1670AS0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the GLTF1670AS0
76-90 of 287
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Door strike broke

  • Customer: Chris from Vernon Hills, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
The store I bought the washer from was going to charge $150 service call and over $60 for the part. I searched on the internet and found what i needed at partselect.com. The part was under $7 and the shipping cost more than the actual part. 2 screws, 1 screwdriver and it was fixed. Thanks!

a busted door striker

  • Customer: mark from Watertown, SD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
2 screws off and put new striker in and replaced the screws

Loud humming noise from the door closure area.

  • Customer: Alyre from Van Buren, ME
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
First,turned the power and water off. I disassembled the door lock and switch assembly by removing two screws from the rear of the top lid to gain access to the switch. Removed two screws from the switch assembly located in the front door latch area. With screws removed, I seperated the three terminal blocks and inspected the assembly for failure potential. Discovered a small crack in the switch housing which created error in relay function. Ordered the part and installed in reverse order of above. Realigned the door for proper closing, turned water and power on and did laundry all night to catch up!!!

Water would not drain from washer

  • Customer: Beverly from Chiefland, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
The drain pump was easily acessible at the front of the washer. There were only two screws to remove. However the two clamps holding the in/out drain pipes were a bit tough to release. When installing the new part, it made it easier to attach the drain pipes first before reattaching the two screws. We were able to get one clamp on fairly easily but the other we finally gave up on and put the old fashioned screw-type clamp on. It worked fine.

Both shock absorbers for the tumbler had broken off

  • Customer: Elizabeth from Bellevue, WA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
The repair itself was simple; it was the original design of the washer itself that made it time-consuming, because of the tight spaces involved. Basically, all you have to do is remove 2 plastic pins, take out the broken part, make sure you have the new part facing the right way, and put the 2 plastic pins back in. Should take 2 minutes if there are not other machine parts in the way!

tub to pump hose (coin trap) was leaking

  • Customer: mike j from merritt island, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I was hoping it was the drain hose but it wasn't. It's a front load washer so I pulled the kick plate in the front (2 screws) removed the three clamps and put the new hose on. Easy job, saved a hundred or so from the repair man. Part cost 35 bucks!

Tub was sagging and seal was not complete, would leak

  • Customer: Steven from Irving, TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
The tub is supported by two springs and two shock absorbers. First remove the back panel of the washer. Then I placed the auto jack from my car under the tub, alongside the motor, and cranked it up, lifting the tub, until the top of the seal in the front was compressed. Then I took the top off of the washer to access the springs. There are retaining straps over the top of each spring that I had to remove to get to the springs. Pulling up hard on the spring allowed me to get a pair of pliers on the spring and pull it out of the slot it was in.

Once it was out of the slot I could remove it from the tub as well. I put the new spring in and replaced the retaining strap. Then I repeated this process on the other spring.

Once both springs were in place the tub was hanging as it should and the seal around the door was smooth all the way around. I haven't seen any more leaks since replacing the springs.

The washer would not pump the water out of the drum before the spin cycle.

  • Customer: Sven from Durand, MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First of all unplug your washer from the power supply and turn off the hot and cold water supply. I removed the front lower panel of the washing machine with a philips head screwdriver. Next I removed the plastic pins holding the right side shock obsorber. This was a little difficult because the upper pin is in a tight location and there's not much room to push the pin out. I just used the flat end of a screwdriver and slid it in place. The pins take some effort to push out, mainly because you have to hold the little tab on the pin down while you push it out. The replacement shock seems to be better constructed. I just put a little Vaseline on the new pins to help them slide through the metal sleeves on the ends of the shock. You also have to pay attention to which way the sleeves go into the shock so you don't push them out when you install the shock.

Replacing the pump was pretty easy. The pump is right there in front fastened to the bottom plate with two philips head screws. Have some towels ready, because if there's water in the drum or hoses it's coming out when you remove the hoses. Take a pair of pliers, or channel locks and open the hose clamp on the big inlet line, coming from the drum and slide it back so you can remove the hose. Then do the same for the outlet hose on the left side of the pump. It's easier to do this before you take the pump off the bottom plate. Once the hoses are off, remove the pump with a philips head screwdriver. While you have the pump out of the way, feel around inside the square reservior at the bottm of the big inlet hose to make sure there's nothing in there that might get stuck in the pump. A large bobby pin had made it's way into my pump and damaged it. It had fallen back down in that reservior, so at first I couldn't understand why the pump wasn't working, til I found it in there. Insatllation of the new pump is just reverse of disassembly. After that turn your water supply back on and plug in power. You might want to cycle the machine before you put the front cover back on to check for leaks. Good luck!

over filling

  • Customer: eliot from fairbanks, AK
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
no problemO top loader. open top, disco two electrical plugs and a small hose, then remove two screws that hold valve in place and remove. Re install in reverse order. Thanks for your support Eliot in Alaska!

20 cents in nickels destroyed pump. Pump vibrated violently afterwards.

  • Customer: Mark from San Diego, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
1. Removed bottom cover - torx driver and drill adapter.
1.5 Unplugged machine and disconnected electrical supply to old pump.
2. Removed flexible hoses with wrench.
3. Removed pump base from machine with torx driver - the hard part as small hands are needed
4. Connected new pump to machine base with torx driver - hard again.
5. Connected hoses - wrench
6. Connected electrical supply and plugged in.
7. Tested pump - very quiet again.
8. That's it! Don't pay a service guy $250 to do this. Buy the pump and do it yourself!

Door strike on front load washing machine broke.

  • Customer: Jim from Anna, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
PartSelect had the part in stock, shipped that day. The part was delivered the next day, my wife had it installed and working when I got home from work.

Washer Door Wouldn't Lock

  • Customer: Shawn from Springdale, AR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I watched the u-tube video and followed what he did and it was fixed. Reason it took over 15 min I had to find the correct bit for the screw. I think your web site is great thanks

water leaked into machine when turned off

  • Customer: Henry from Frenchtown, NJ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Removed top,removed hose from inlet valve to washer,removed hot and cold inlet hoses and with phillips screwdriver removed water inlet valve assy and replaced. Reassembled and tested.

My order arrived 2 days after i ordered same. Excellent service from partselect, Thank You....

Washer would function for 2 to 3 minutes and then pause. "PAU" appearing on the display.

  • Customer: Stephen from Amarillo, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Apparently the faulty switch was causing the washer to think that the door was open which would pause the wash cycle. The temporary fix was to disconnect/reconnect the door lock/switch assembly, thereby resetting the switch. Eventually though, the switch had to be replaced. The repair was simple. Unplug washer from power. Remove the metal band and spring from around the perimeter of the door seal. (I had to use needle-nose pliers for this step). Loosen the rubber seal near the door latch area only. Remove old latch by unscrewing the two screws, and disconnect all wired connections. Reconnect wired connectors using the new part and screw back on to the washer using the two screws. Reseat the rubber door seal and hold in place using the metal ring and spring you removed in the first step. Plug washer back in to power. That's it.

Washer wouldn't enter the spin cycle. Clothes wet at end of wash cycle.

  • Customer: Leslie from Tolland, CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Open the door. Pull the clamp off of the boot (locate spring at bottom). Peel back the boot on the right side so that you can get to the door lock and switch assy. Remove the 2 screws in the front that hold in the door lock and switch assy. Remove the wires from the old assy. Transfer the wires to the new assy. Screw in the new assy. Refit the boot and clamp. give it a try.
All Instructions for the GLTF1670AS0
76-90 of 287