GLTF1040AS0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

with the help of my nephew, we unstacked dryer after power sources were shutoff first. then simply removed the two screw attaching lid on washer. then removed two screws holding switch from front of machine. fished switch up to a visible area, exchanged bad for good. fed switch back to it's home,then reversed assembly procedures. these forums are great and have saved me money by enabling the repair both washer and dryer at a very reasonable cost without the need of a certified repair person.

The same.

Some parts are hard to remove due to the inability to see the locking section of the fastener pin. The parts installation is self explanitory and no asdjustment is required, so beyond laying on the floor of a very small room and not being able to see some of the parts it's not bad.

Took off the front, and put a come along to rafters in garage to lift tub.
Replaced shock asborers, waited for spring kit to be delivered, replacing all.
Still isn't working need to check wiring to some compoments to see if a wire is broken.
Hope to have it washing soon

It took more time to remove the screws on the back panel..
remove back panel for better access..
remove speed access box on lower left side ( 2 screws) to get access to nylon pegs, squeeze down on tabs and pull out . the little tabs are on the oppsite side of the split nylon...
Replace shocks and nylon pegs..
reattach speed access box.
put the back on.....
easy job, the new shocks are part metal, make sure the metal side of shocks go towards the tub...

My washer was leaking a bit on the left side, apparently from the place water enters from filler. I spent a bit of time inspecting that side of the thing and my jaw dropped when I finally saw the other side of the washer, the upper shock was broken off and the thing was not connected.

I got my parts fast and removing the pins was a bit troublesome but some from access standpoint, but it wasn't hard - just took some extra effort and prying from the head side. Seems to run better with new shocks and no more leaking so far.

I removed the bottom front panel ( 2 screws) and about 8- 10 inches back were the shock absorbers...the one on the left was easiest nothing in way I squeezed the locking tab and pushed the pin thru to remove the shock absorber...on the right side was a little tricky but got my arm round the drain hose and small pump and pushed that pin thru as well...installed new shocks and was good to go...I did call a local repair business here in belleview florida was told the shocks themselves would cost 37.00 for the pair and about 150 - 175 in labor...I paid 22.00 from parts select and did my own labor thanks for all the help...les

You could do the replacement by just removing the maintenance panel on the front, but removing the rear panel gives you more options for getting at the shocks.

The front panel comes off with 2 screws, the back has a lot of screws holding it on, a cordless drill is the way to go.

Prying on the head of the plastic bolt with a pair of needle-nosed pliers while pushing down on the tab seemed to work well. I did have to remove a small box that houses electronics to remove the one from the right side.

While I was in there, I tightened up the numerous bolts that holds the drum shell together. Machine is much smoother now and no leaks.

Unplug washer. Remove supply lines. Remove two screws in back and remove clips holding top of washer. Front of washer top is held by two clips. Release top from clips and slide top towards the front. Remove two screws holding the water inlet valve to the back of the washer. Lift unit out and remove clamp and hose. Install new unit in reverse of removal.

Shut off water to washer....unplug power cord...pulled washer from wall out into room....removed 2 water supply hoses....removed 2 top retaining clip screws on rear top of cabinet.....lifted rear end of top panel up approx 5 inches......propped up with small pieces of cut up 2X4 lumber.....did not disconnect any wiring related to the control panel...remove 2 screws holding valve to cabinet back panel......lift valve up and out of cabinet by the tub fiil hose.....disconnect 2 wire plugs, mark these upper, lower or hot /cold......disconnect the tub fill hose....remove the back panel-to-valve bracket off the old valve and install on the new valve and reverse this procedure!!! The new valve flows water better and faster, the wash is done quicker!!

Removed screws at back securing top panel (4).

Removed screws holding water inlet valve to back of machine (2)

Removed water hoses to bucket

Removed squeeze clamp securing water distribution hose from inlet valve

Reversed method with new valve.

Very fast...~25 min
Works fine so far!

Two small clamps holding the top onto the body were removed with two screws. I lifted the top and held it up with a small piece of board. Two screws were removed on the back top left that hold the water inlet valve in place. Once those were removed I reached inside and removed the two plugged in wires and and lifted the part out. At this point I used pliers to unclamp the hose that fed into the washer. I then reversed the process and put in the new part. Works great. Thanks a lot for making the part I needed easy to find. I am now a true fans of your website.

First I removed the hot and cold water supply lines to the machine. Then I removed the two screws at the top of the back panel, and pulled the entire top of the machine off which was a little tricky to figure out. There are two tension-like clips in the front of the machine holding the top on. (I had thought the back panel would come off so I was surprised when it became clear that the top of the machine would come off.) Then I unscrewed the two screws that hold the water inlet valve. I had to remove the green grounding wire that was clipped on the frame. The water inlet valve then lifted out easily. There were two clips to slide off, and a hose going into the tub that also had to come off which I did by loosening a little clamp on the end of the hose- saved the clamp for the new valve! Re-attaching everything was a snap. Tested the hot water before re-setting the top of the machine back together and it worked!

First I unplugged. The machine from the outlet then disconnected the two water supply lines from the machine. Next I removed the back panel to gain access to the bottom of the drum. Next I took a nut driver and used it to depress the little tab on the push pin that hold the bottom part of the strut on. After getting the pins out I replaced the old strut assembly withe the new one. I used the nut driver again. But this time I used it as a set tool. Place the nut driver on the end of the push pin and gently tap with a hammer. Until the pin is all the way in. After that I reversed the assembly process to put the machine back together.

If you can tie your shoes you can make this repair. 23 Screws, 2 spring clamps, new part fit perfect, inspected old hoses and installed identical part. Wife says "it's working great"