GLGQ2152ES0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

Part Select got me the right parts in the agreed time--good job. Shut off the power or unplug the dryer which ever is easiest. The toughest part of doing this job was figuring out how the lid came off the dryer, if you have a jack knife or a putty knife you push it in between the top of the dryer and the body about an inch below the dryer top and about six inch from both sides of the dryer front you will hit a latch that releases the top--slip a screw driver into the opening and do the other side. The top can be removed or you can hold it open with a stick. There are two screws that you need to locate they are on the inside of the dryer front about 9" from the top one on each side they are all that hold the front on the body so remove them but carefully not to drop them inside the dryer. On my dryer there were two screw inside the dryer door that held the filter body onto the front that had to be removed too. Then push the screw driver between the front and the body of the dryer like the top and it will pop open. There are some wires going to the front from the body they can be unplug just follow the wires to the connection point. On mine, I squeezed the sides of the connector and the wires pulled apart. Now you can move the front aside. At the lower right in the body you find the valve and heater burner. On top of the valve there are two sets of wires coming off the valve. Disconnect the wires--one set is for a three wire connection the other for two wire connection. Your parts have a two wire coil and a three wire coil. The coils are freed by unscrewing the metal cover that holds them down remove the two screws and that cover then remove the old coil off the valve then replace the new coil with the part that is the same. Three pin coil with three pin coil positioning in the same way as the old coil, then do the other one. Reattached the metal cover with the screws and put it all back together in reverse order. The dryer chamber--the inside of the dryer rests on the front so when you put them together you may have to lift the chamber up to met the face a little (1/4"). Good luck.

I have a washer-dryer combo unit, so the repair steps were slightly different than the repair videos I watched. (1) removed the screws at the top of the dryer and remove the top. (2) removed the front control panels and unscrewed the front of the dryer (where the door is mounted to). (3) from the back of the dryer, removed a small metal sheet to access the dryer's belt and dismounted the belt from the motor. Finally, lifted up the dryer drum and take it off the dryer. Once this done, I used the rear drum bearing kit and replaced the assembly that hold drum from the dryer back. This was a straight-forward and did not take much time. Unfortunately, the belt I purchased was a bit short, so I kept the old belt during the assembly.

I went online and viewed a you tube video on replacing the rear drum bearing on the brand of my dryer. After reviewing this, it was pretty easy since I new what I was getting into. It really helped! Most of the time was spent cleaning up the inside and outside of dryer first before the parts replacement. Other time was spent in putting back the dryer where it came out of. New dryer replacement would have been $750.00 plus labor costs modifying the area where it had to be placed which may have included relocating a shelf and re-routing the dryer ducts. Total cost was around $50.00 plus my time.

Simply removed the old broken handle screws and replaced it with the new one.

The repair went very well.The biggest problem was the spring on the tension roller when putting back together.But it just takes a little bit of patients and it was fine.Works great now.

Brought up repair video on my smart phone and followed instructions while doing the repair (pausing when needed) and completed the job in under an hour including vacuuming the lint from inside the dryer before re-assembly.

Unplug the dryer from out let, lift the lid (top of dryer), cut the zip tie. Pull the two wires and the plastec wireing harness apart. Remove the screws that holds the front panel on, and the screw and molded pice that holds the drum in place, remove the belt from around the drum. Now remove the drum, have to lift up and out on the drum. Remove motor, and pulley from old motor for use on new one. Put everything back together. Took me 15 to 30min to do this ( I recamend a new belt as long as you are this far and the price is a small amount for it. )

i folow the instructions from web page

Removed back panel, unplugged motor and released the belt. Remove top panel then front panel. Remove drum for better access. Vacuum the lint while everything is open. Remove old motor and replace with new motor. Reassemble. Suggest replacing the belt too.

Referred to Video and replaced drum support bearing as shown. Did not solve the problem as noise was still present. Called professional repairman, who replaced the belt pulley, along with all the parts I had just installed (came as part of a total kit). I was on the correct path, but just didn't go far enough to check out the belt pulley. If it should happen again, I could complete the whole repair process. Great learning process!!

Replaced everything on the dryer till I got the right problem, seriously, I now have a new dryer in an old body, still came out alot cheaper than buying a new one. I listened to every sound on youtube but none sounded like my dryer.

I youtube'd the repair, and repaired it! While I was at it I replaced the belt! (Highly recommend replacing the belt while you are replacing the element!) Was a snap!

removed top-removed front-removed belt-removed drum (I didn't know how the drum came out WITH the bearing so I unscrewed the 3 middle screws on the back of the drum which released it from the bearing)- removed the bearing-that was when I knew what to order. installed the bearing on the drum before assembling all in reverse order. I wasn't sure how much grease to use so I used about 1/3 of it.

Had the drum bearing but had never got a round to putting it in we just let it squeek. Then the belt went. Easy enough, whatched the tutorial once and just did it. 35 minutes and back drying.

This repair took about fifteen minutes. I popped the top of the dryer using a flat-blade screwdriver, leaned it back against the back wall, unscrewed two screws holding the front panel, removed the five electrical spade contacts after marking which went where, swung out the panel and lifted it off. After that, it was a simple job to unscrew the plate holding the solenoids in, at the bottom left of the unit. I replaced the solenoids, closed everything up and now the dryer is working better than it has in the last three years, or so. If your dryer is heating sporadically, the odds are 85%, or more, that a solenoid swap-out will correct the problem.