GLEQ2152ES1 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

Took cover off and removed damaged part. Removed wiring and reattached to new part

First I watched the video on how to do the repair. Very good instuctions made the repair go smoothly.

Very simple. I removed the broken latch with pliers and snapped in the new one in less than 5 minutes.

Followed the video. Very helpful. There is no way I could have done this on my own without that guidance. Parts in Rear Drum Bearing Kit included new screws and metal support parts that are shown as reused in the video. To install these parts, I had to hold the back plate in place. A big piece of masking tape did the job nicely. The only major problem was tapping the holes in part that attaches to the drum -- very difficult. Needed my best Phillips screwdriver, leather gloves, and a lot of hand strength to get it done. I had to slightly ream out one of the holes to make the last screw fit. Minor problem - the idler arm is not retained by anything. The idler pulley and arm both fell off when I reinstalled the belt. I guessed right on how to get them back on the machine.

followed the Video instruction which were provided. Dryer works like brand new.

Just followed step by step instructions from the video provided by Parts Select

This was a stacked washer and dryer combo and is a lot more difficult to repair, requiring a lot more to take apart and put back together.

I set up my laptop with the partselect video going. Laid out my tools and the individual parts that were in the kit. I watched the video a segment at a time, performing the tasks in the same manner that the instructor did. All together, the process took less than two hours, I had no questions or difficulties, and the repair process went flawlessly and successfully. I had never done anything more complicated on a dryer than replacing the hose before this. The sense of pride in doing a repair of this level myself, and avoiding paying someone ridiculous fees to do it, is beyond description.

pulled out old catch with old pliers and popped new one, simple.

These are the instructions for replacing the dryer control board. The procedure is relatively simple, but if you are unsure you will remember how to reassemble, take pictures with your phone as you go along. This should take only about 30 min. You will need only a #2 phillips screwdriver (use a relatively short shaft as some of the screws are in tight places). A smaller jeweler's flat-tip screwdriver is recommended to help in disconnecting some of the plastic retaining taps and removing some of the electrical connectors later in the process.

1. Disconnect the dryer from the electrical supply.

2. Remove the top panel. The panel is held in place by metal and plastic tabs on the front and sides. Simply remove the two screws along the back edge of the top panel, then slide it back about half an inch and rotate the rear upward. The panel will lift right off.

3. Remove the console from the dryer. Remove the six screws holding console to the front panel. There are two screws on the top inner lip of the console housing on each end and one screw on each side on the lower back of the panel. Once these are removed, the console will come out by rolling it slightly forward from the top.

4. Disconnect the four electrical connections from the console. For two of these (those with plastic connectors), squeeze the small clip on the side of the connector and lift straight up. The two metal connectors (left side of the console as you face the dryer) are a bit more difficult. The easiest way is to take a small screwdriver (like a jewelers screwdriver or a computer repair kit) slide the end through the small hole in the metal connector and then use it to lever the connector from the metal tab on the console.

5. Separate the control board housing from the console. Remove the five screws holding the control board to the console and lift the control board & housing from the console face. You will have use your fingers or small screwdriver to free the control board housing from the console face by freeing it from the plastic tabs along the top and bottom. Be careful not to let the button mechanisms on the console face fall out (although they are marked with roman numerals - I, II, III, etc - to get them back in the right spots easily).

To prepare your replacement control board for installation, you will need to transfer the LED display/cover, LED prisms, and control knob from the old control board to the new one.

6. Remove the LED display by using a small screwdriver to GENTLY lift each of the side tabs of the display cover and then lift straight off. Once the LED display cover is off, pull the LED display unit straight out of its slot and insert it into the slot on the replacement board. Snap the display cover into place on the new control board to cover the LED display. (one of the cover's plastic clips is longer than the other to ensure you put the cover on correctly.)

7. Remove the control knob and it's display wheel from the old board housing. This removal can also be tricky as it fits tightly in the original unit. Using your small screwdriver again, you can GENTLY push the knob out from the rear of the old control board (you'll see the center spindle from the back of the unit). I used a Torx, instead of a flat or phillips, screwdriver to minimize the risk of damage to the back of the spindle. Once you've successfully removed the control knob, insert it partially into the proper hole on the new control panel and turn gently until it lines itself up and goes in easily the rest of the way.

8. The final step in disassembly is to remove the LED prisms (for the display lights on the console face) from the old control board housing to the new one. Do this with the two side-by-side since each of the prism slots has more holes than the prisms have pegs and you'll want to ensure they are in the right holes.

9. Once the LED display/cover, LED prisms, and control knob are transferred to the new control board, assembly is simply done

Took out drum which was the hardest part because Im short so I needed a little man power to lift it up then out.... Replaced entire bearing parts and belt.... You do need a nut driver for that but we ended up using plyers which worked okay.... All in all it was way easier than I thought it was gping to be.... Now it sounds brand new.

I first had a problem with the dryer not heating. When I looked at the heating coil I could see it was broken. With much work I replaced the heating coil. The real pain in the ass was reattaching the dryer drum back to the bearing on the back of the unit. It is very difficult to find the holes on the rotating bearing and line them up with the 3 holes in the drum to insert the screws. Hence my mistake, I evidently didn't tighten the screws tight enough as they would fall out after an hours use and destroy the new coil. I replaced the coil but still no heat. . . . When the coil shorted out it damaged other electronics. I replaced two parts of the electronic (thermal limiter and high limit thermostat). Still no heat. I have another almost identical unit so I pulled the control panel out of it and still no heat. There is one other electronic part I see that I am going to replace but at this point I would rather eat a can of worms then look at it. I would highly recommend to anyone performing this procedure to really crank the screws in the drum tight and use blue locktite.

Taking the front of the dryer off was rather easy. A two screws under the control panel and once the flap that separates the washer and dryer was removed there are 4 more screws to remove and release the control panel (disconnect wire harness and let panel hang). Once removed, two more screws separate the door/front of the dryer. Remove those and the 4 on the top front of the dryer. When completed the only restriction you have are bracket mounts. Just give a good tug and the front should separate from the body. Thereafter, the drum can be removed by removing the belt first. Reach to the back and depress the spring loaded pully by moving it to the right, releasing the belt. Let the belt hang while you unscrew the the drum screws, 3 located in a triangle pattern inside the drum. Remove them and the drum from out of the dryer. Straight ahead of you is the heater assembly. In my case, only the coil had to b replaced. So it was as simple as removing the old and in with the new. Reverse your disassembly to get reassembly.

The new door handle was sent out the day I ordered it and arrived in three days! I unscrewed the old door and screwed in the new door (the new door handle didn't come with screws but the old screws were still perfectly good to use). My husband was impressed when he arrived home from his business trip!

Installed a new rear drum bearing kit and new drum belt