GHD3525F00BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Actually, the problem started with a Timer Motor failure, and that let the dishwasher run for 4 hours (doh!). Immediately, I tested and ordered the timer, which unfortunately didn't come as just a motor, it came as an assembly. I installed it, and the dishwasher ran the cycle just fine.

Except it didn't drain.

After poking around, I noticed the drain solenoid had apparently been overworked; the timer must have failed on DRAIN. The solenoid was severely overheated, and thankfully didn't cause a fire, but it was somewhat melted. Replaced the solenoid, and all is well, especially when my wife was eyeballing a $1000 Bosch!

The lower right and left tub baffles just slip in, no tools required. For the front door gasket; a) removed the backside of the front door by removing the door screws. You need to manipulate the front door latch to remove the panel. b) remove the existing gasket, replace with new gasket. The short 4" gasket was missing, which is why it was leaking in the first place. Replaced it with the new one. Reassembled and tested. Thanks to Parts-Select for a great experience, very well done site.

I ordered parts before opening. My theory was to have the parts so that the dishwasher was not apart for longer than necessary, in the hope of avoiding the wrath of momma bear who just wants a new one... Once I opened up the door I realized the spring for the main lever arm had broken its mount. I drilled a new hole and reattached the spring. I did not need any parts. However, the original parts corresponding to the three parts I ordered were all beat up and brittle, so I was happy to replace anyway. I did not even explain, she is happy the cup looks new and is happy with the dishwasher. It even says Cascade on it, almost like an upgrade :). If your cup does not latch I would order the three parts I did and also order the lever spring. It was very corroded after 30 years, so I would have replaced if I purchased it. Next time.. :)

I removed the four screws of the filter frame exposing the check valve (piston and nut assembly) . I unscrewed the old check valve and replaced it with the new one.

I received my dishwasher as a hand me down, my Aunt never liked the way it cleaned. After it sitting for about 2 years i installed it in my house and found that it leaked all the time from where motor shaft went into the pump housing. After disassembling everything and scouring parts sites online, I found the parts, ordered them. 3 days later i had the parts, and the next day I had a fully functioning leak free dishwasher.

This is a great website. I ordered my part on Wednesday night and it arrived Saturday morning without paying any extra for shipping. Plus since I am a female, this website enabled me to easily and affordably make the repair myself without having to worry about a repair man trying to take advantage of someone that they think they can.

I first made sure that there was nothing stuck in the drain area inside of the dishwasher. That meant I had to bail out all the standing water and then unscrew the mesh cover from the bottom. Since there was nothing in there I ordered a new solenoid.

First I unplugged the dishwasher. Then I removed the screws with a screwdriver that held the bottom cover on the dishwasher. Once I could see the installed solenoid, I put together the pieces of the replacement solenoid that I bought so I was sure to install the new one correctly. That did not require any tools. Then I unscrewed the two screws that held the solenoid in place and removed the little metal ring from the shaft which was the last piece holding it in place. Getting that ring off was tricky. I ended up using a pair of tweezers to pull it off. After that I put the new part on and screwed it in with the two screws provided. The little metal ring went on much easier than the old one came off. I screwed the bottom cover back on and voila! my dishwasher was fixed.

Read about somebody else with the same problem and ordered the check valve. 4 screws off, twist out old valve, twist in new valve, 4 screws back in. Now dishes are see-yourself clean.

22 Year old dishwasher . . . Not worth repairing I thought so I pulled it out to dispose of it. Before I did, I went online to see if any parts were still available. . . To my surprise partselect. Com had it all! My problem was a plugged chamber located on rear wall of unit. A 20 minute repair once the new part arrived. Part arrived in 3 days but was broken inside of pkg. I called and the operator apologized profusely. . . She told me to keep the defective and explained my cc would temporarily be charged for replacement but as soon as they received a credit from supplier my credit will appear on my cc stmt. I had a replacement the following day. . . What a company!!!!

Unscrew supply tube and angle nut from old valve. Disconnect tube from valve. Install new valve. Obtain new crimp seal for water supply tube. Use Teflon tape. Reconnect water tube to valve.

Pulled dishwasher out. Unscrewed 4 screws holding body valve, disconnected 2 hoses and replaced valve, put machine back together in reverse order.

First I took out the two screws that hold the drain solenoid on the unit and took off the c- clip that held the arm on the shaft if you have a digital camera take a picture to make sure you can get it back together the same way.. Then put together new unit and attatched putting the c-clip back on. Ran it through some cycles to make sure the solenoid was working. Four days later the solenoid is melted again, the timer must have an intermittentant problem I should have replaced the timer and the soleniod both at the same time. Make sure you dont make the same mistake I did. Now I will be buying a new dishwasher instead of putting any more time and money into this one.

I opened the D/W door, used needle nose pliers to remove the old baffles. They come right out. I cleaned the area using paper towels and installed the new baffles. They just sit in the corners with nothing holding them. Simple job.

first, I removed the screws holding the dishwasher to the countertop.Then I removed the dishwasher from under the counter. I turned the dishwasher on it's back and loosened the three hose clamps securing the water connections to the pump assembly. I then removed the electrical plug to the motor and the screw holding the support rod to the motor. Then I worked the loosened water connections apart and removed the pump and motor assembly.
Then I removed the hose clamp and plug from one of the orifices on the new pump, and aligned all of the water connections and wiggled the new pump assembly into place. I tightened the hose clamps, Installed the new screw and support bar to the motor, and connected the electrical plug. I then turned the dishwasher upright, reconnected the power cord, water supply and drain lines and started a wash cycle to check the new system for leaks. I found that the extraneous drain solenoid that came attached to the new pump was loose and rattling, so I secured the solenoid shaft and linkage to the pump housing with electrical tape to stop the rattling.

Remove old left and right corner tub baffles, make certain area where the new baffles are to be inserted is clean and free of any debris. Gently press new baffles in to each corner. Remove old gasket insert and replace with new. Tell wife the job was a three hour ordeal that require advanced skills to complete!

I replaced the top filler tube. (The $65 price for the filler tube is outrageous. Glad I didn't have a service man fix it. With mark-up it would have cost me over $100 for a 3 foot plastic tube. Crazy!)

While I was add it, I replaced the corner tub baffles.