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Glass cooking tray broke
There was no "fixing" per say but we still could not use the microwave without the plate. This has to be one of the biggest plates for a microwave. We ordered this through your company and we had it three days later. THREE DAYS! We had expected anywhere from 1-2 weeks. My husband was so impressed he bookmarked your site for future reference. Thank you for being so efficient and prompt. The glass turntable fit like a glove! Sincerely, Mark and Lia Hammond
I removed the screws along the top, side and bottom of the door, stuck a butter knife between the outer door and inner door assemblies, then simply removed the two screws holding the handle.
By pulling the filter screens units down and out with a pair of pliers I had access to the surface lights. Pulled the lights out of their sockets and replaced the bulbs. Real easy. Since the filter units were out, replaced the filters and reinstalled the filter units. The whole operation took less than 15 minutes.
Remove the filters and use a Torx driver to remove two screws holding the motor. The wires on on the motor are held in place by a plastic clamp that must be pried open on one side. That's all it takes to replace the drive motor. Everything else that makes the turntable spin lifts off from inside the microwave.
Microwave wouldn't turn on and found breaker been tripped and then microwave wouldn't turn on at all.
Read some instructions and easily found the fuse. Replaced it. Still didn't work. Took control panel off to check door switches. Nothing I read mentioned a second fuse. Tested and it to had blown. Ordered another one. Popped them in. Done.
Door close wasnt registering and the microwave wouldn't turn on.
I looked up a YouTube video of someone with a similar over the oven microwave. That helped me get into the area behind the control panel where the door switches are. I checked the springs and the cam rocker? The thing that actually hits the button on the switch when the door closes. They were in good condition so I assumed the door switch was bad. There are two so I just purchased one figuring (hoping) that only one was bad. And lo and behold only one was bad. Bing bam boom. Put it all back together and I'm set. Not too difficult. Took a week of work because it takes like 50 days to ship. My kitchen looked like a hurricane after image because of all the parts scattered everywhere.
The display kept asking me to close the door, even though the door was closed. The interior light stayed on.
I used a Google search to show how to access the area behind the front panel. There was a folded paper copy with a schematic and wiring diagram in that space.Then I used a multi-meter to determine which of the THREE micro-switches was causing the problem. I called your help line and ordered a replacement switch. The switch was delayed in transit so your agent credited me with the cost of shipping.
When the part arrived, it had three terminals instead of two as shown in the on-line picture but that did not cause any difficulty in using it. It took about 20 minutes to remove and replace the old switch.
All seems to be working well now.
Finding which of the THREE switches was the problem was the most difficult part of the repair. All three "clicked" but the defective one did not click as easily. It needed to be depressed more than the door latch can would provide. Old age?
Requires 2 sets of replacement parts. Prior filters included a charcoal filter sandwiched between 2 aluminum filters/screens (3 total parts per side). Replacement charcoal filter was already attached to an aluminum screen so just needed to add 1 aluminum screen/filter so the charcoal was again sandwiched between the 2.
Unit changing modes spontaneously - becoming unusable and dangerous.
The microwave unit is installed above the stove and suffers from overheating, especially if there is a lot of steam. The unit dates from 2007 and we had the same repair in 2014. The steam kills the electronic control board which is in the door of the microwave. The symptoms were spontaneous switching between operating modes, which had become annoying and dangerous. The steps to open/replace are: Find a cardboard box that matches the open space below and wedge it in tightly as a support for the insert in the front door. The insert comes out with a few visible screws and “invisible” tabs along the top and bottom (5 each). Pry the thin metal housing open to release the tabs, using clothespins to hold it open at each location so the whole side comes out at once. Lay the control panel onto the support box taking care to not stress the 6-wire cable at the bottom of the side hinge. Unscrew the plastic covering over the control panel. Unplug the wiring harness on the board, using needle nose pliers to pull carefully out. There may be a release barb to squeeze. Remember to clean the inside of the window before reassembling.
The close door warning kept coming on and the microwave would not run
Don't waste your time with other parts stores online. Partselect sells quality parts and they arrived 2 days early. I purchase a door switch from another online store and the switch was defective.
After removing the over-the-range unit (no small feat!) I had to figure out how to open the case (good puzzle!). Capacitor had already discharged, so it was very easy to reach in, pop the old fuse and install the new one! As per your advice, I found out I was a "28%-er"! Upon re-installation, the microwave "sprang to life"!! Thanks, "Part Select"!! I was already shopping around for a new machine! (Now if you could only tell me an easier way to re-mount this heavy beast over the stove!!!)