GGG388LXQ01 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

Lock the oven/stove controls by holding the START button for five seconds. This shuts off gas to the valve. Remove the knobs from the front of the stove using philips screwdriver. Undo the six screws that hold on the front bezel and remove to find the valve. Unscrew the top bracket using philps screwdriver. disconnect the valve using a wrench (I think it was 12mm). Compare the valve to the new one. Installation is reverse. Press the START button for five seconds to unlock the oven/stove. Test fire the burner. Cook a batch of chili.

First I removed the lower tray and all parts covering the ignitor on the upper oven. 2. Then I removed the screws holding down the ignitor and flame distributor. 3. I then had to pull out the oven from the wall and remove the back panel to expose the wires connecting the ignitor. This required the removal of about six screws but they were fairly easy to get to. 4. I disconnected the ignitor from the back panel then went around to the front of the oven and pulled out the ignitor and all of the attached parts. 5. Here's the tricky part. The screws holding the ignitor in place had fused from the heat and then the threads stripped when I tried to remove them. I had to use a dremel tool and cutting wheel to carefully cut the screws off and then went to buy some replacement screws from the hardware store. 6. I replaced them with a nut and a bolt, to hopefully avoid the same problem for later replacement if necessary. 7. I then replaced everything the same way it came out and all is working like new!

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Lifted door off hinges; removed lower oven spill plate; unmounted bake igniter from heat shield; pulled stove away from wall; removed rear access panels (4 screws); unplugged bake igniter; installed new part; vacuumed behind stove and mopped floor (this took more time than installing the part); oven is back in cookie baking mode!

Easy, pulled out the old dis-colored racks and slid the new ones in. I was VERY happy with the quick receipt of my order. If I ever need parts again,this is where I will go

removed panel from back 4 screws. unplugged ignitor wire to lower level of upper oven, top wire is for broiler.Slid oven door off its hinges(very heavy)removed wire rack removed 2 screws from bottom pan lifted out,lifted off burner guard, looks like it may have had nuts to hold it down at one time , mine were missing. lifted out burner assembly. removed 2 screws holding down ignitor, they stripped out had to drill holes slightly larger and install new one with screws and nuts I had on hand. Used long screw driver pushed in from behind to guide ignitor wire back thru the insulation. reinstalled everything in reverse and it worked like a new. $50 part part saved us $2000, we were looking at replacing it with a new oven but we really liked what we had. Very satisfied, and wont hesitate to tackle next repair job with help from this web site.

No repair - just open the box and put the rack in my oven - voila - repaired!!! BUT let me tell you PartSelect sent the right part at the best price and I received it even ealier than I expected!!! I can DEFINITELY recommend these people and I do that very sparingly!!!! THANX!

easy-peasy remove small panel on back
disconnect in the back of range-oven "orange wire"
unscrew igniter from burner inside oven
remove and replace with new one
slide wire thru hole in back of oven
reconnect---u r done
dave

Remove door, racks, unplug, remove lower burner cover two screws, the burner tube deflector pan two wingnuts, the burner tube. With igniter attached, remove back of range 4 screws to expose connector to igniter, unplug then remove burner tube, then igniter, replace igniter feed through back of oven wall and reconnect igniter reverse process and its done

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Removed old ingniter with screwdriver. Installed new igniter, but had to remove connector in order to electrically connect using twist on connectors.

1. Pulled range out from its cabinet setting and turned off the gas and unplugged the electric cord. 2. Removed all knobs (and soft pads) to burners. 3. Removed curved cover that covers the burners gas valves, gas manifold and igniter harness. 4. Removed a part that could be referred to as a flange or riser that is attached to the top of the range front at the burner level which the top of the curved piece is attached to. 5.The igniter attachments to the gas valves come off by pulling them away from the valve. I pulled away the one for the grill. 6. With these parts removed, eye sight and 1/2" open end wrench access is given to where the gas valve is attached to the burner gas line. 7. Disconnected the valve from the burner line. 8.Removed the bracket that holds the valve in place, thus removing the valve. 9. Installed new valve and bracket and attached valve to burner line. 10. Reattached the igniter part to the valve, then attached the flange (#4), then the curved cover, then the burner knobs (and soft pads). 11.Reconnected the electric cord and opened the gas valve. 12 Pushed the range back into its cabinet place and pushed the 'Cancel:' mark as directed by the digital read-out on the range's back riser control panel. Checked for gas leak. None. It took a bit of scrutiny to see what to remove and in what sequence.

You Tube!!! Didn’t find my exact oven, but watching a couple of videos was extremely helpful. Replacing the igniter was basically simple, but since it was a first for me, I took my time. Probably saved $200. The part was just over $100.