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GFWH2405L0MV
GFWH2405L0MV General Electric Washer - Overview
Sections of the GFWH2405L0MV
[Viewing 4 of 4]Manuals & Care Guides for GFWH2405L0MV
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Water Inlet Valve
PartSelect #: PS1019151
Manufacturer #: WH13X10023
This water inlet valve attaches the water lines to the back of your appliance. The attaching solenoids on the valve open and close according to the desired temperature, or amount of water needed.
$102.75
In Stock
Door Strike
PartSelect #: PS2322437
Manufacturer #: WH01X10356
This part is the replacement door plunger or door strike for your washer. It is made of white plastic and is approximately 2 inches by 1.5 inches. The door strike attaches to the washer door and activ...
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Questions And Answers for GFWH2405L0MV
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Fareza
March 23, 2023
My machine fulls water everything but when time to wash it humming drum not moving. What could be the cause?
For model number GFWH2405L0MV
Hello Fareza, thank you for getting in touch. Based on our understanding of the issue, we would suggest you check that the lid is properly closed. Close the lid after loading the washer and ensure there are no obstructions. Inspect the drive belt to determine if it is broken or if it is loose on the pulleys. If the drive belt is broken or loose, replace the belt, part number PS3487272. Also check the pulley, part number PS3487269. If these do not solve the issue, we recommend you replace the drive motor, part number PS1019642, to fix the issue. We hope this helps, good luck with this repair!
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Common Symptoms of the GFWH2405L0MV
[Viewing 4 of 4]Leaking
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Lid or door won’t close
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No hot or cold water
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Will Not Start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
machine would not fill on any cycle requiring hot water, Machine would work fine on cold cycles
I Disconnected power to machine and shut off water supply lines. Move washer away from wall and removed supply lines.(good time to replace them if older than five years) Where these supply lines attach to the washer is the water valve you are replacing. There are 3 screws on the back of the cabinet lid, then on the front 3 more screws hol
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d the lid to the plastic control housing. After removing screws you need to slide the lid up and towards the back of the machine app. 1 1/2"to 2" before you can raise the lid up and off of the machine. Once the lid is off it is just one screw holding the valve, and a hose clamp that needs removed from the end of the valve. Then slide valve to the right (looking from front of machine to the back.) I left the wires attached to the old valve,installed the new valve then reattached the wires in the same order as they were on the old valve to avoid confusion. (note valve must slide into place to get screw to line up.)assemble is reverse of the above steps. Don't forget to level machine. Be careful attaching water supply lines plastic valve threads can strip without much effort.
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Parts Used:
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Robert from Altoona, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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inlets cross threaded from water hose connections
I unplugged the power cord from the wall outlet, then I had to remove the top panel off the machine by removing the three phillips screws holding the back trim strip to the front top of the machine, than I removed the three 1/4 inch head screws holding the top panel found at the back top of machine. I now pulled the top pannel to the rear
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and removed the top pannel. Then I used pliers to squeeze open and slide clear the small clamp to the rubber hose to the valve and removed the hose end to the valve. Then I carefully pulled off the four wire connectors to the two solenoids of the valve.
Than I removed the one 1/4 inch head screw found on the back side of the machine securing the valve to the machine. Then I removed the valve by sliding it to the mounting screw side to disengage it.
Install the valve in reverse order but I tightened the valve holding screw only till it's seated because it screws into soft plastic. 6/15/08
Than I removed the one 1/4 inch head screw found on the back side of the machine securing the valve to the machine. Then I removed the valve by sliding it to the mounting screw side to disengage it.
Install the valve in reverse order but I tightened the valve holding screw only till it's seated because it screws into soft plastic. 6/15/08
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Parts Used:
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Allan from Tucson, AZ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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"Door Locked" light always on. Washer would not run
Remove bottom kick plate of washer. Remove 4 screws behind door that hold the latch/lock assembly. Reach up inside the washer from underneath to unplug 3 wire connectors. (This is a very tight spot). Once wires are off, part comes right out. Connect wires to the new part - this is by far the most difficult part of the job because it
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is way up inside the washer. Replace all bolts.
Overall, pretty easy to do - just reconnecting the wires is a pain, but if you are patient it is not a big deal.
Overall, pretty easy to do - just reconnecting the wires is a pain, but if you are patient it is not a big deal.
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Parts Used:
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Robert from Dallas, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
36 of 56 people
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