GFG464LVS2 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

My oven was misdiagnosed from an appliance repair company. They said my ignitors and spark module needed to be replaced. I did this myself and still nothing. The problem happened to be a defective gas valve.

First I unplugged the stove and shut off the gas supply. After I disconnected the flex hose and the 2 gas connections behind the stove, I removed the 4 screws that held the valve to the back of the stove.

I went to the front of the appliance and pulled out the bottom drawer. This exposed the valve from the other side. I disconnected the electrical connections (3 colored wires) to the valve and removed it. I re-attached the new valve, putting everything back in reverse order. I made sure the 3 wires were reconnected correctly by labeling each one before disconnecting them. I made certain that my gas connections were sealed by using teflon tape and/or pipe sealant from the hardware store. I turned the shutoff valve back to the on position and checked for leaks. If I smelled gas I snugged it down a bit more until no gas smell was detected.

There was nothing wrong with the ignitors or the spark module. The stove failed to pre-heat and the "tick-tick" I used to hear when the stove was first turned on was nonexistent. What the so-called experts said would be hundreds of dollars to fix unded up being a $90 part.

Opened up the back of the stove. Unpluged the sensor. Replaced the sensor. Replace the back of the stove.

The sensor that has been replaced is not what is expected. After reading all of the instructions for adjusting the temperatures, the only temp that stays steady is when we first turn on the oven to 350 degrees. That stays steady but when I turn it to 400 it slowly goes up to 425 degrees.

I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

Replaced igniter and also DSI/direct spark igniter did not fix problem. Called out repairman turned out to be bad gas valve. Replaced that part , now stove works fine.

After reading many forums found that this error happens when trying to clean the oven and there is a failure in the latch motor to lock the oven door. It was suggested 1st to just tunr the breaker off to the over wait and then turn it back on to see if the error would clear by itself. If not then you'll have to do what I did and buy a new Latch Motor and replace it. Fairly easy to do:
) Move oven to get to the back panel
) Disconnect oven from power
) Remove the 8 screws to get the back panel off
) REmove the Latch motor screws (2) and remove the motor after twisting to get the latch rod off
) Put in new latch motor by 1st putting the latch rod in the motor assembly
) Screw the new motor in place
) Replace back panel
) Power on Oven
DONE!

Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cover

screwed in the new glide by taking out old broken one and screwing in new one. wife happy now.

Google the error code that the range was displaying and found others with the same symptoms. Then found several people that had fixed the problem by replacing the oven sensor. I then ordered the sensor and replaced it, which fixed the problem.

We removed the door from oven assembly and laying it flat on the bench removed the stainless steel cover from the rest of the door. Removing the shattered pieces of safety glass was done heating and scraping off vinyl tape.(difficult.)Caution! Do not allow any pieces of glass get under the stainless steel cover, it will leave ugly scratches! We purchased double sided vinyl tape 1/2" wide, 1/16" thick and aluminum "Flue tape" (600 deg. F) 1 1/2" wide from local hardware store to replace the original ones in their previous location. Fitting the new glass on sticky tape has to be done accurately. (no problem). Assembling it was little tricky but still within the ability of a do-it-selfers. We wondered if we should not put the rough side of the glass facing in or out. The original was with the smooth side out so that what we did. If any additional scraping of accumulated grease is needed especially on the inside glass, it requires more disassembly, but we would strongly suggest doing it (we did), while it is all opened. To our surprise the glass arrived by Fed Ex within 24 hours of ordering and now our Whirlpool is gleaming like new again. The cost of this product with shipping/handling by PartsSelect was much lower than ordering it from the other "original" source. Thank you! Sincerely Fred T.

part did not fix the problem, may be gas regulater ,well if you are changing this part,not to bad .remove the knobs bottom screws and two side screws front cover flips up and off ,the ignition control is in front of you right side ,remove the one screw that is looking at and everything slides out .i turned off the gas and elec and removed the gas line and carefully laid the stove on it back.made it easier ,good luck

#1) Pulled the range away from the wall and unplugged the electrical cord
#2) Turned the gas valve off and pulled the range away from the wall as far as the gas line allowed.
#3) Disconnected the gas line at the range and pulled the range out to access the regulator at the bottom and pulled out the bottom shelf to access the front of the regulator.
#4) I took photos of the regulator front and back for future reference.
#5) Unhooked the feeder gas lines to the oven and cooktop in the rear.
#6) Unhooked the three electrical wires attached to the regulator front and removed the set screw at the air/gas shield feeding the oven distributor and slid the shield down to the feeder line seat.
#7) Removed the four set screws holding the regulator to the back frame.
#8) Installed the new regulator with the four set screws in the back. Applied thread dope to the two gas feeder lines and installed the gas lines to the new regulator.
#9) Referenced the photos taken earlier for proper electrical colored wires to the regulator terminal block and reset the air/gas shield in the prior location and tightened the set screw.
#10) Applied thread dope to the main gas line and installed it in the supply side of the regulator. Turned on the gas and sprayed soapy water on the threads (all) to check for leaks.
#11) While the range was still away from the wall, plugged in the electrical cord, set the time, turned on the oven and broiler to checl operation.
#12) Cleaned up the range back and floor and moved it back into place. Re-leveled the range and received accolades from my Wife for a job well done. (perhaps now she will actually cook on it)

Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.

The web site was easy to navagate and locate the correct part. The part was in stock and shipped the next day and was delivered in 3 or 4 days. All total the replanement was less than a week. The replacement was easy except it took a second person to hold the glass in place while i threaded the hold down screws fron underneath. I could not hold the glass and thread the small screws with just my two hands, plus having to thread the screws from the bottom was more difficult, but all in all it was simple and now we have a new unbroken glass front oven door.

According to the manual tucked behind the oven, if one solenoid on the gas safety valve/regulator doesn't work, neither will work. It indicated that from the center (common) pin to each of the others, it should read 216 ohms. Mine read 200 to one side, none to the other. I ordered a replacement, had a buddy tip the oven up for easy access while I went at it with a screw driver and some line wrenches. Swapped it out and she works like a dream now.

Replaced igniter