Models > GEW9200LW0 > Symptoms > Too hot

Parts That Fix Whirlpool Dryer GEW9200LW0 Too hot

Too hot is a commonly reported symptom for the GEW9200LW0 Whirlpool Dryer, and we have put together a full guide on how to fix this. This advice is based on feedback from people who own this exact appliance. We have listed the most common parts for your GEW9200LW0 Whirlpool Dryer that will fix Too hot. We have included repair instructions, and helpful step-by-step video tutorials. If you are experiencing this issue, not to worry, DIYers just like you have fixed this, and shared their experience to help you!

1 Thermostat, Internal-Bias
Fixes Symptom 55% of time
Thermostat, Internal-Bias – Part Number: WP8577274
★★★★★
★★★★★
30 Reviews

Rated by 30 customers 

  

Easy 

1- 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

The internal-bias thermistor (Thermistor, Dryer Thermister, Dryer Thermistor) prevents the dryer from overheating by monitoring and controlling the temperature of the inside of the dryer drum. It is located on the blower housing, next to the thermal fuse. If your thermistor is defective, drying time could be prolonged or you could get a fault code. You could also notice your dryer overheating. You can test the outlet thermistor on a multimeter, it should read 10Kohms (10,000 ohms) of resistance at room temperature. It can tolerate 10% fluctuation. If your reading indicates the part is defective, it will need to be replaced. This model is white plastic. It is sold individually.

$ 47.74
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11746740
Manufacturer Part Number WP8577274

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Thermostat, Internal-Bias

Replacing your Thermostat, Internal-Bias

Customer Repair Stories

Dryer turns off after 1-2 minutes

I tried to follow directions followed by others on this site after diagnosing the problem via suggestions provided by users. I have a Whirlpool Duet dryer from 2002. We've had problems since moving about 3 years ago. I removed the front panel (lower) by unscrewing the two bottom screws (1/4" sheet metal screws). Then I took out the lint screen and the metal tube/contraption immediately beneath to get access to the area where thermistor is located. See the drawing/chart to help you locate this. It's really easier than it seems. Make sure you have the chart/drawing for your model - it makes difference! The thermistor came out pretty easily with a nutdriver that has a swivel offset shaft. Ask your hardware store tool dept. about that one. Put everything back in reverse order of course and test either with/without the front panel re-attached. In my case it fixed at least part of the problem. I was able to get clothes almost dry with most settings but I have yet to install the moisture sensor to see if that helps in addition to the internal-bias thermistor. I am the kind of person that does one thing at a time so at least I now know the thermistor was bad. Good luck and hang in there with your own repair. It's a lot cheaper even if it takes you longer to do than a pro.
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  • Dixon from Santa Fe, NM
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
19 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
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Unit would shut down in the middle of cycle and flash E1 trouble code

Had to remove the back of unit to access the area of subject part by removeing 12 to 14 screws also the gas line had to be removed. Two screws held the part in place. Unit now runs normal.Saved alot on repair costs!!!!!
  • Jim from Tucson, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
30 of 40 people found this instruction helpful.
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2 High Limit Thermostat and Thermal Cut-Off Kit
Fixes Symptom 21% of time
High Limit Thermostat and Thermal Cut-Off Kit – Part Number: 279973
★★★★★
★★★★★
21 Reviews

Rated by 12 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

Also known as Thermal Cut-Off kit. The thermostat acts as a safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating and the fuse is like a backup system - it's set to trip at a higher temperature than the thermostat. Once it trips, it has to be replaced.

$ 53.28
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS334387
Manufacturer Part Number 279973

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer High Limit Thermostat and Thermal Cut-Off Kit

Replacing your High Limit Thermostat and Thermal Cut-Off Kit

Customer Repair Stories

Dryer not heating

Open breaker and ensure power was off. Checked heating components for continuity.Found thermal fuse had an open circuit.Replaced High limit thermostat and thermal fuse.Now is a good time time check for free flowing vent piping.I discovered mine was crimped below the floor and caused lint build up and obstructing the flow which could have led to the thermal fuse blowing.I replaced the vent piping as well.My wife says the dryer works better now than it ever has.
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  • Stephen from Andalusia, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
12 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
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Flashing E1 code for a bad thermistor

I replaced the thermistor earlier, but the code was still flashing. I noticed the heater terminals were charred and pretty well covered in carbon. So, I replaced the heater, the thermostat and thermal fuse and replaced the 3/8" spade terminals on the heater wires. (These are hard to find - most electrical spades terminals are .250. Also, I crimped and soldered these for a connection with the lowest resistance possible). After all that, the code still flashed! I let the explatives fly, calmed down, and ran the control board test. (This is done by pressing "more time" "less time" "more time" "less time" in succession.) The control board was passing all the tests, but the thermistor test, and the only thing is in this circuit is the thermistor, the wires, the connector to the control board, and some circuit on the control board that involves a few resistors and the "brain" chip. So, I checked the terminals at the thermistor, the wires up to the control board and the connector at the board. The control board connector was fairly dust encrusted, so I unplugged it, cleaned the control board terminals and sucked away all the lint and dust. Finally, I carefully removed earch crimp terminal from the Molex connector (the white female connector) and cleaned and bent them to yield a better connection to the terminals on the control board. I put it all back together, and thus far it is working fine.
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  • John from Cedar Rapids, IA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
17 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
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3 Moisture Sensor
Fixes Symptom 8% of time
Moisture Sensor – Part Number: WP3387223
★★★★★
★★★★★
13 Reviews

Rated by 5 customers 

  

Easy 

1- 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This is the moisture sensor for your dryer. It helps detect the amount of moisture in your clothes during the dryer cycle. If you notice your clothes are still wet after an automatic dryer cycle is done, you may need to replace the sensor. You will find the moisture sensor behind the lint screen. Be sure to disconnect the power source from the dryer before you begin this repair. Note: Some model's require two sensors, please order quantity needed. Sensor only, harness is not included. This part is sold individually.

$ 10.72
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741408
Manufacturer Part Number WP3387223

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Moisture Sensor

Replacing your Moisture Sensor

Customer Repair Stories

Hard to reach the screws inside the dryer They were on the door side of the dryer and hard to reach, especially if you are a abig guy.

Removed the dryer door, unscrewed lint vent.
  • Lucy from CHADDS FORD, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Moisture sensors need replacement

Inside the dryer tub, remove the filter housing by removing two phillips head screws. Unplug the sensor wires, note when replacing wires, black wire goes on upper sensor.
Separate filter grill from housing. Using the pliers, compress the tabs on the sensor plugs and push it thru the grill. The small blade screwdriver may come in handy here to pry up on sensor to assist in pulling the plug end through the grill. Replace the sensors by hooking short end into grill and pushing the long end through the grill. When replacing the housing to the dryer, the most difficult thing is getting the screwdriver onto the recessed screws. Be sure to put the tab on top of the housing under the dryer frame when rotating the assembly into place.
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  • Jack from JONESBORO, AR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
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4 Dryer Heating Element
Fixes Symptom 6% of time
Dryer Heating Element – Part Number: WP3387747
★★★★★
★★★★★
139 Reviews

Rated by 58 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

When connected to electricity the dryer heating element glows red hot and generates heat. When air is blown over it, it heats the air which is used to dry the clothes. The heating element fits inside the heater housing inside the dryer. Wear and tear on the heater coil from use will eventually cause the coil to break and the element to fail. When this part fails it can cease to produce any heat. Alternately, the coil could break and short to ground allowing the dryer to continue to heat even when turned off. The latter is a fire hazard and the dryer should be disconnected from power until the element is replaced. If the element coil breaks, the element needs to be replaced. This model is 11 by 5 inches with 5/16” terminals, metal and ceramic, and comes in black. It is sold individually.

$ 94.64
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741416
Manufacturer Part Number WP3387747

Replacing your Kenmore Dryer Dryer Heating Element

Replacing your Dryer Heating Element

Customer Repair Stories

Dryer would not heat at all.

Found a service manual on-line for the Whirlpool Duet Dryer. Did the troubleshooting for the problem stated. Found the heater element to be bad (open circuit across heater block). Ordered new element from PartSelect.com and installed. Dryer now works like a charm and I didn't have to call a repairman.
  • Lou from Orlando, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
35 of 38 people found this instruction helpful.
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Burned out heater element

Remove the kick plate from the bottom of the dryer by sliding a putty knife along the top edge to release the plastic clamps, one on each side about 4" in from the edges. The kick plate folds out and down. You will see the heat shield on the right, held in by one hex head screw. Remove screw and heat shield. The element is positioned in an open-front housing and is fastened to the left side of the housing by two hex head screws, located on the "rail" of the element and right near the two wires. Remove the hex-head screws that hold the element in place and disconnected the two wires by pulling them out by hand or with needle nose pliers. The only difficulty here is the cramped working area...I recommend a stubby socket driver for these two screws. Most of this I had to do by feel because I could not see the screw heads. Once the screws are out and the wires have been disconnected, slide the old element straight out toward you. You may need to disconnect a small plastic hose located to the left front of the element, but this hose just pulls right off. Vacume the dust & lint build-up out of the whole area, wipe out the element housing and clean up the whole underside of the dryer prior to installing the new element. Installation is reverse of removal. It also might be a good opportunity to clean out your exhaust duct and the vent to the outside. (Never use the aluminum foil-accordian-type duct.) If the exterior dryer vent has any kind of screen over it, remove it and get rid of it. Screens collect lint, lint builds up and burns out elements.
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  • Alan from Brooksville, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
492 of 575 people found this instruction helpful.
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5 High Limit Thermostat - L295-50F
Fixes Symptom 5% of time
High Limit Thermostat - L295-50F – Part Number: WP3391914
★★★★★
★★★★★
2 Reviews

Rated by 3 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This hi-limit thermostat acts as as safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating. Once the dryer temperature reaches a certain point, this piece will shut down power to the heating element.

$ 100.80
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741456
Manufacturer Part Number WP3391914

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer High Limit Thermostat - L295-50F

Replacing your High Limit Thermostat - L295-50F
6 Disposable Thermal Fuse - Two Terminal
Fixes Symptom 5% of time
Disposable Thermal Fuse - Two Terminal – Part Number: WP3390719
★★★★★
★★★★★
12 Reviews

Rated by 25 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This part attaches to the exhaust duct of your clothes dryer.

$ 17.97
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741444
Manufacturer Part Number WP3390719

Replacing your Kenmore Dryer Disposable Thermal Fuse - Two Terminal

Replacing your Disposable Thermal Fuse - Two Terminal

Customer Repair Stories

The dryer stopped working and would not start.

After unplugging the dryer, I removed the bottom panel in front. Remove the the filter inside the dryer and remove the filter housing below. There you can see the thermal fuse on the air duct, its white with two blue wires. You can check it with a ohmmeter after removing the wires. If its open its bad. Its held in place with two sheet metal screws. After replacing the thermal fuse the dryer worked fine. However I would suggest cleaning the air duct and the outside discharge opening. Hope this helps.
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  • kevin from Saint Augustine, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
20 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer wouldn't turn on

Removed the back of the dryer taking off the screws. Found the disposable thermal fuse. Unplugged the 2 blue wires connected to it. Removed the screws holding the part in. Replaced the old part. Reattached the blue wires. Put the back on the dryer. And voila! That simple!
I'm a 39 year old woman with absolutely no patience for tedious jobs, but this was so easy I felt good about doing it. And felt even better for saving lots of money by doing the repair myself.
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  • Olive from Williamsburg, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
49 of 64 people found this instruction helpful.
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