GERC4110SS0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Puled out the electical plug . Removed the back panel. Pulled off the switch knob. Removed the 2 screws holding the switch. Took the wires off of the old switch and placed them on the corespondig connector on the new switch. Put everything back in reverse order.

Tried to do it myself and broke the left trim piece. Use two people!

Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.

The web site was easy to navagate and locate the correct part. The part was in stock and shipped the next day and was delivered in 3 or 4 days. All total the replanement was less than a week. The replacement was easy except it took a second person to hold the glass in place while i threaded the hold down screws fron underneath. I could not hold the glass and thread the small screws with just my two hands, plus having to thread the screws from the bottom was more difficult, but all in all it was simple and now we have a new unbroken glass front oven door.

1. tripped circuit breaker for stovetop
2. pulled the stove top out of its cabinet.
3. turned in over carefully due to the glass cooking surface.
4. used 1/4 inch nutdriver on cordless drill to remove all the screws holding the lower cover in place. lifted cover off without removing completely as power wires still attached.
5. did continuity test on burner and found it open circuit while all the other 3 burners had continuity.
6. removed defective burner by removing two more screws and saw element was fried on the cooking side.
7. wrote down all part numbers and put it all back together.
8. changed the burner out when new one arrived by repeating steps 1 thru 6. Pay attention to the correct wiring setup. Do one wire at a time to make sure you don't mess up. MAKE SURE THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IS TRIPPED BEFORE YOU KILL YOUR SELF.

Have a tall one to celebrate the savings of two repair man call out fee's of minimum $60 each time and paying list price for the element. You probably just saved yourself $150.
Tom in Steinhatchee

Turned off the power . Removed two screws in front, lifted top, used a piece of wood to hold up,took off wires to bad element removed old element, replaced with the new one, put wires back on ,closed top,screws to front,on with power and cooked dinner!

found the part here, once received, PULL Plug to stove. Removed 8 screws on back panel to remove two female electrical connections on element. Removed two screws from oven ceiling and two screws from back. Removed bad element, slid in new element, reinstalled holding screws for element, done inside oven. Connected female connections on each end of element, replaced back and 8 screws. plugged stove back in and tested Broil eelement, worked great. Wes

I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I removed the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!

To access the hidden bake element you have to remove the warmer drawer and the left side panel (your left from the back of the oven). To remove the side panel you need to access 3 screws under the side of the glass top, to lift the glass top open the oven door and remove 2 screws from the bottom side of the glass top. Once the drawer and side panel are removed you can use a flat head screwdriver to pry out the false bottom on the front side of the oven and remove 2 more screws on the side so it drops down. Move the insulation out of the way and relase the element tray by prying out 2 tabs on the front side. Unplug the connectors from the element terminals and remove the bolt holding the element. Fold the side of the element tray down to remove the element. Reverse order to install.

real easy one to take care of, when the drawer broke I thought it was more than what it really was, after looking at it and seeing the wheel was gone I ordered the part and it came very quick, drawer is now fixed.

Checked to see that I had all the parts I needed.
Installed bottom door trim then side trim pieces.
Do not tighten screws. Install door handle with top
trim attached over glass. Tighten screws just snug
all around.

First I removed the front 2 screws on front by oven door, then removed glass top and frame. Removed the burners off of old fram and applied them to the new glass cooktop and frame. Placed new cooktop on top of stove and applied the front 2 screws back in. Plugged stove back in and your done!

Easy repair with Phillips screw driver and needle nose pliers. 1. Turn off Breakers or unplug range, Open oven door and remove the two screws holding the glass top to the oven frame. 2. Slide glass top forward and remove the two electrical connectors at the rear of the glass top, one on each side. 3. Remove the Phillips screw holding the ground wire from the rear top flange of the glass top. 4. Glass top can now be removed and placed glass side down on a padded flat table top. 5. Take a few pictures of the wiring and brackets for reassembly reference. 6. Remove the 4 wires from the defective heating element with needle nose pliers (note locations for reassembly to the new element) 7. Remove the Phillips screw on the rear side of the bracket holding the defective element. Carefully lift off the bracket. 8. Heating element can now be removed. 9. Remove the locating flanges from the defective element and install on the new element in the same locations. Clean glass if necessary and place new element on glass. 10. Carefully locate the flange tangs into the same holes on the bracket, reference photos or other side for locations. Ensure small element bracket was replaced in mounting slot of large bracket and reattach bracket screw. 11. Replace wires to same locations, remove and lightly pinch connectors if they appear loose, then reassemble. 12. Replace glass top on range, reconnect the two electrical connectors and ground wire, slide forward and replace the two mounting screws. 13. Restore power and check new element for function. Extension wires which came with the new element were not needed in this application. Total repair time about 20 min.

Removed oven door and the 3 screws holding the bottom door trim. Attached new trim piece and reinstalled oven door. Entire job took less than 5 minutes.

I'm still unsure why it broke ,but it was just a matter of removing two screws that hold the handle in place and sliding in the glass...