GBS18HBMBWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I checked the compressor and it was running. Next I removed the doors amd screws that held the divider strip. Next removed the bottom of the freezer to expose the evaporator fan. Removed the fan and checked it out with volt ohm meter. Discovered the fan motor was out. Ordered new one on line and received thenext delivery day. Insatlled in reverse of disassembly. When I plugged it in everything worked fine. Thanks for the quick delivery. You provided fine service.
Sincerely,
Joe Sutphen

shut down power- removed plastic covering in refrigerator -installed new part- This has been installed for about 1 week and as of today every thing is working fine. This problem would occur about every 1-2months. So I will not really know for sure until some time goes by

Found burned Defrost timer contacts.

Easy fix - snapped together.

I visually inspected the compressor and narrowed down the source of the noise to the freezer area. Then I removed the doors and the screws securing the divider panel. Next I removed the bottom panel of the freezer, the styrofoam insullation panel and the evaporator motor. The motor is mounted between two grommets. I replaced the grommet facing the fan blades. The aluminum reflector below the styrofoam insulation panel had also come loose. I reattached it and reassembled the refrigerator in reverse order. The noise is gone!

I called a repairman in to replace the part. Not sure if the temperature stays cool enough yet but am keeping track of the temperature range still.

Freezer worked great but no cooling to refrigerator section. Replaced with part ordered. Phillips head screw driver is all that is needed. Very easy to replace, it's plug and play. New part powered up neither the freezer nor the refrigerator. Went back to old part and atleast freezer still works. New part was no good from factory. The replacement part# matched the original. I attempted to contact PartsSelect but there was no response back.

After watching video I took off end shelf caps. It took close to 10 mins to replace them.

Removed screws underneath gasket, one side of door at a time, and replaced gasket.

I slipped the coupling over the bar and then into a door slot. It was very easy.

Came home one evening and found the refer compartment evaporator fan making a noisy/grinding noise. While waiting for the part to arrive the motor finally quit working and the frige lost its ability to cool, but the freezer still worked fine. This is the fan that is inside the frige between the refer & freezer compartments - NOT the fan motor that is located in the bottom/rear next to the compressor. This grinding noise sounded like it was coming from inside the frige and could be easily heard under the vegetable trays and above the freezer compartment. To access this motor you need to go after it from inside the bottom of the frige compartment - there's NO need to remove the refer door. Pull the vegetable trays and remove the small phillips head screw located down in the lower air flow groove toward the front of the refer. Next, pry up & out the front white trim piece that runs the width of the frige. Once that piece is removed you can lift & slide back the whole lower frige trim/tray. Now lift out the large foam block compartment and you'll have complete access to the evaporator fan motor and the evap coils. Simply pull the fan motor assy out, still attached to the triangular bracket and disconnect the electrical pigtail. Next, pull the fan blade straight off the front hub, split & disassemble the motor bracket, & replace both fan motor grommets. Reverse the steps to reassemble the fan motor to the bracket and reinstall back in the bottom of the frige and plug in the electrical pigtail - the fan should (quietly) fire off instantly and begin the cooilng process. Reinstall the foam block, lower frige tray, front trim piece, reattach the phillips screw, close the door, and give it some time - it took our frige overnight to completely cool down. This is not a tough job, I spent more time figuring out how to access the motor then the actuall replacement. Hope these steps help to speed up your repair! And remeber Red Sox 4 Life!

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

This shelf has been broken for about a year now and my husband tried several little quick fixes that would work for a while and then the shelf would fall again. A quick search online led me to your website, the part arrive within two days, and the shelf was fixed in less than ten minutes. It's working great. We'll definitely keep you in mind for the future.

I pulled off the broken piece, ordered the new piece, and snapped it on. VERY SIMPLE.

Removed the shelf retainer and snapped the new one in. and reinstalled the shelf on the door.
This was a very simple problem!
What really impressed me was that I ordered the part from you before noon on one day and received it by 11 AM the next day!!!