GBD307PRQ01 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

Hardest part was getting the oven door off. Since I bought this house with oven already in place, I had no owner's manual. Tried to get it off with tips found on this site, no go. Went online and found the manual which said to insert allen wrench in holes in hinge, then lift up FROM THE BOTTOM. That is the key. Got door off, then found that replacing the inner glass is a multi step process that starts with the outside door, then multiple brackets to the next inside glass, then more braces to next glass, then finally you are at the broken (inside) glass.My advice would be to take pictures on cell phone or whatever of each level, so you know what goes where when you put it all back. I figured it out but would be faster with a picture. Anyway, got all together and the oven works fine, door looks great!.

We have double wall ovens and each one only had a single oven rack in it. After 3+ years, I was tired of dealing with the issue so I ordered two new racks from PartSelect. They came quickly and fit perfectly. All I had to do was open the box, remove the rack and slide it into the oven. No muss, no fuss. Why didn't I do this years ago??

Similar to another customer, the racks were not removed before self-cleaning. The issue was that I AM THE HUSBAND and I admit that I did it. Ooops. Great price and if I do it again, I will go back to parts select to get a replacement.

turned breaker switch off. unscrewed the oven from the cabinet. lifted the oven out of the cabinet (heavy & awkward, needed an extra pair of hands). removed back panel. replaced fuse. reassembled everything. this is the second time i've had to replace the thermo fuse (oven blows the fuse when set to clean). first time i replaced the fuse it took about two hours. second time it about an hour.

Removed retainer screw and retainer. Removed old gasket. Installed new gasket, retainer, and retainer screw. Very simple job.

1. REMEMBERED TO SHUT OFF THE APPLICABLE 240V BREAKER. 2. Carefully removed the 2 screws holding the element to the oven structure 3. Carefully extracted the 2 wires from the holes at the rear. 4. Carefully removed the wires from the old element 5. Attached the wire sockets to the new element. 6. Carefully eased the wires back through the holes at the rear 7. Attached the 2 screws through the element holding clamp to the rear wall of the oven. Everything went better than I had expected.

Visited PartSelect.com and ordered the element. Talked to a really sweet lady who assisted me at the company by ordering the part. Received the part and my husband cut off the electricity to the stove, took off the old element, got the sockets and after pushing on the new element, and he screwed the screws back on, cut on the electricity and we cut the stove on and it was ready to go. VERY, VERY SIMPLE TO REPAIR.

After reading other repair reports and talking to a representative, I ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat. Relatively easy to install after removing the oven from the cabinet, only it did not work. After going over the wiring with a voltage meter, we discovered there was no power to the upper oven, only the lower oven was working. Took the panel off the top of the oven and found a wire which was not attached to anything. Never needed this part at all. This oven was purchased from a second-hand store and was used in a remodeling. $52 for part and $100 for serviceman to make the oven operational.

Have a Whirlpool Accubake self cleaning wall oven that quit working after doing a cleaning. Found that the thermal overload safety thermostat might be the problem. Ordered the part which arrived in a couple of days. Installation was very easy and took about 10 minutes. First turn off power to the oven. Slide the oven out, remove the back panel, remove the old safety thermostat which has two wires coming off of it, and replace it with the new one. Put the back panel on and slid the oven back in. Turned the power to the oven back on and we had heat. Problem solved.

I did some research on blogs and identified the thermal fuse as likely culprit. Ordered part from PartSelect.com, but had to call the 800 number because the parts diagram doesn't show this fuse, just the thermostat. The fuse is located on the back of the oven, so it must be removed from the cabinet, but that wasn't a huge project. There are a bunch of sheet metal screws holding the top and back covers that must be removed. The fuse is held on by two screws and has two wire connections. Getting the stove out and disassembling is the hard part, but not really difficult if you take your time. I used a foot stool that was about the same height as the bottom of the oven and just slid the oven out on a piece of cardboard. Make sure you turn the power off before starting.

screwed in the new oven light

Glued on the nameplate

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

I removed the oven door using the instructions in the book that came with the oven useing 2 allen wrenches as described. I called up the parts list for the oven door on my computer and made a copy.This was very helpful in removeing the door and getting to the broken glass and installing the new glass The one thing that that i regret was not ordering the insulation frame that went around the new glass. It was difficult getting it back in place.I would order this part if I have to do this again. I ordered the new glass on a Saturday and the new glass was delivered on Tuesday.Thank you for the great service. Bill- Texas

Turned the circuit breaker off, removed trim and the oven screws, pulled oven out, and placed on a stand in front. Electrical cord was just long enough without disconnecting. Removed the back panel, installed the old thermostat with the new one the same way. Used the same phillips screwdriver for the operation. Installed the oven using reverse order. Turn circuit breaker on, back in business. Prior comments definitely helped me a lot. Thanks.