GBD307PDB5 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

Easily removed the door from the oven by releasing clips attached to the door hinge -- very nicely engineered. Removed about 6 philips head screws to allow the door assembly to be taken apart for access to the glass. Lifted out the broken glass, cleaned the inside of the door, installed the new glass, reassembled the door (a two minute project), and reattached the door to the oven. Cleaning the inside of the door took longer than the actual repair!

Something Kitchen Aid wont tell you but running a self clean on this model stove blows the fuse located on the back of the stove.

First I slid the stove out and removed the back of the stove held in place by 8 Phillips screws. The thermostat fuse is located near the top middle on the back of the stove. Remove the 2 screws holding it in place. Disconnect the wires, plug in the new part. Put it all back together. Job done in less than 30 minutes.

This repair would have cost $164 through A&E factory service.

I removed the two screws that held the bake element in place. Next I removed the Bake Element. I had to unscrew the oven to go behind it because when one piece off of the element broke, it slide back behind the oven. I pushed the wire back thru the piece holes, connected the Element, and pushed the element with the wires back through the holes. I rescrewed the element in place and the oven. PartSelect helped me to save this year's Christmas.

This built-in oven was slid out of it's space and set on a box. I removed the back cover with nut driver and located the safety overload device. removed nuts and used pliers to remove wires and replace them. The power must be off to do this repair.Replaced the cover and slid back into place. This could be a lot more difficult if your power cord or gas line is not long enough to make it out of your wall space. Or of your oven is attached well to the frame.

I have a Whirlpool Gold double oven model number GBD307PDS5. Started having trouble with the display showing PF (for power failure) alternating with E6F2 error code and then completely blank. It would beep if you pushed buttons and the oven would actually turn on but you couldn't tell what temperature it was at since nothing displayed ont the screen. We had a repair person come out and told us that the part that needed to be replaced was not being made so we would have to buy a whole new oven. Instead, I ordered a new control panel (8300440) and the microcomputeer panel (4451991). The microcomputer panel I had to purchase refurbished from ebay since it was difficult to find elsewhere. The control panel (8300440) is the external piece with the buttons on it. The microcomupter panel (4451991) attaches to the control panel and has most of the elcetronic circuitry on it. First I replaced just the control panel since it arrived first. It worked well for about 12 hours then the next morning I woke up with an error code. After shutting off the circuit breaker and restarting it everything seemed to work fine. I replaced the microcomupter board anyways because most people seem to have the experience that they eventually need to replace both. The trick to getting access to removing the original panel is that you have to open the bottom oven, and remove one screw from each side towards the bottom then the side metal panels slide out and you lift up and off to remove the control panel. You can just pull out all the wires attached to the panel, then remove about 5 screws to detach the microcomputer from the control panel. When removing the ribbon connector fromt he control panel to the microcomputer you have to squeeze in the tabs on the side at the base then pull up and out. The control panel ran $200 including shipping and the microcomputer board about $300. A word of caution: DO NOT ORDER FROM APPLIANCEZONE.com as they will give you the runaround and it takes forever to receive your part (if you ever do). There are some other tricks I tried before making this repair: (1) turn off circuit breaker and turn back on after waiting 20 minutes. (2) Cutting off a fine amount of the ribbon connector from the bottom and then repositioning.

Removed the oven door by following the straightforward instructions in the user's manual. Removed philips head screws to take the door assembly apart. Removed clips holding the two inner door glass plates, and the two plates. Removed the clamp holding the broken glass plate, then the glass and associated glass fragments. Then cleaned and re-installed the three glass plates and their clamps in reverse order. Re-assembled the door and re-attached to the oven. Only cautionary note is to be careful when removing, handling and re-installing the various glass plates. Watch out for fragments from the broken plate; they can cut you and/or fall on the floor.

It was easy to remove the old element. It only required the removal of two screws and pulling apart the electric connectors. It was just as simple to install the new one.

My wife used the self cleaning function for the first time after 1.5 years of owning, of course out of warranty. A quick google search identified the problem. Called Kitchenaid, they said of course it can't be that simple, they had never heard of this problem, need to schedule a service call. Googled and found this site, Ordered the part, came in, only took a screwdriver and about 20 minutes, just like all the other posts.

shame on Kitchenaid for not owning up to the problem. I even e-mailed them all the links, they did not acknowledge them.

Important note: hinges are left and right do not mix them up or door will not re-assemble properly and you'll get to do it twice.

Steps I took:

Removed the oven door per the instructions in the oven operator manual. Removed several screws to release the interior steel liner.

Removing the steel liner was a bit of a hassle, Had to manipulate it to get it loose but it eventually came away from the stainless steel exterior door panel.

Disassembled the interior glass layers, there are three. The glass you need to replace is the last layer, of course. removed and discarded the broken glass. Note: the interior glass is not secured by a bracket or screws, it is held in place by compression of the interior steel liner and a another liner that is inside the door assembly (you'll figure this out when you dis-assemble).

Another note: there is a fluffy material gasket between these two liners, use care when you disassemble or the fluffy gasket will turn into confetti.

Take the opportunity to clean all glass and parts of the accumulated oven grease.

Re-assembled door and re-installed...looks good.

Another note, getting the door back together requires a little patience because there are clamping overlaps of the steel liner to the SS exterior door panel. Be prepared to jockey things around a little and make sure all your screw holes are all lined up before you begin to button it up. Remember, hinges are left and right they are not interchangeable.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Turned power to oven off. Removed trim screws and trim. Removed screws that anchored oven in cabinet. Removed oven from cabinet. Removed back panel, tested thermal fuse. Determined it was defective, ordered new part and reversed procedures above to reinstall.

Safety first , I shut off the circuit breaker . I removed the racks from inside the wall oven . I removed the the wall oven from the niche .Then removed the three sheet metal panels in the rear of the oven exposing the mounting screws that hold the blower down .I removed the wires from the blower motor and then the blower assembly ,then I removed the small duct affixed to the blower assembly by a single sheet metal screw and transferred it to the new blower assembly . I installed the adhesive backed foam strip that is a vibration dampener and reassembled in reverse order.Once the over was returned to its original position in the wall mounting I turned the breakers back on and tested the oven ...AAAAAAAAA++++++++++++ To be fair i must admit that I am not a novice at this 15 years of my working career revolved around HVAC and appliance repair ,still however a novice that is mechanically inclined can perform the same task in about 70 to 80 minutes as opposed to my 35 . That is all there is to it.

Turned the power to the oven off. Took two crews out. Disconnected the old unit, connected the new unit, put the two screws back in and tested the unit.

My husband did the repair and said it was very easy to do with the following instructions that I got from the Fix Ya website.

This is a design flaw in the Kitchenaid convection ovens. I can help fix this problem if you have a built in oven (I don't know if the parts are located in the same place for stand alone ovens). First it is not a FUSE that has blown rather it is the thermostat in the rear of the oven. (Part #4452223) This small part cost about $37 US and after shipping it will cost you about $47. I tried to get an estimate from an electrician as to what of frustration I decided to tackle the problem mthey would charge for the part and to come out and fix the oven an the price was about $90 for the part and anywhere between $100 and $170 more for the service call + repair! After a day myself.

The very first thing you must do is shut off the circuit breaker to the oven and put a very large sign on the panel that reads DO NOT TOUCH! That is 220 volts to that oven and while most panels have just the oven ont circuit you dont want anyone reactivating that circuit by mistake!

The next part requires a little work. Find the side panel screws (usually located in the oven door) and remove the two panel flanges that cover the 2 or 4 mounting screws that keep the oven in the wall. Now go underneath the oven and find the power junction box, take off the cover and disconnect the wires that run from the oven. Remember which goes where. Next remove the little nut that holds the electical conduit cable to the junction box then loosen the wires. Once this is done you can now slide the oven out and get to the thermostat.

This part requires a little elbow grease. Find a platform or table that fits just under where the stove will slide out and slide the oven on top of the table or whatever for support. In the back of the oven there will be a sheet metal panel that covers the thermostat and other wires, remove the 5 or 6 screws that hold this panel on and put the panel aside. Almost in the middle of the oven's back you will see a little black device with two wires running out of it (one red the other white or yellow). It will have the part number on its front, remove the wire and notice that the thermostat is half red and half white (remember this for the new part will have the same markings) the red wire goes onto the lead coming from the red markings. When you have the new part simply put the new one in (remember: the red side to the red wire), attach it to the back of the oven, replace the sheet metal cover and slide the oven back into place securing it with the screws. Viola! you are done! Turn on the power and then test the oven (I used the broil setting to warm it up then switch to a temperature setting). The entire process took me about an hour and I am NOT a handyman!

The glass caps that cover the bulbs screw out by hand. Then, it was just like changing any other light bulb. I put the caps back on, and magically, we could once again see our food cooking. We had asked other repair companies to replace the bulbs when we had other major work done, but they either didn't want to take the time to get a part number, or didn't want to get it for us. On the PartSelect website, it was easy for us to find and order, not to mention we saved at least $75.00 on the service call alone. Thanks PartSelect!