GBD277PDQ6 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

Scarey> First thing you should do is cut off the electricity at the main breaker box. I dam near blowed myself up. It's 220Volt I found out after all hell blew up in my face. I was lucky and didn't get shocked.I shorted out the old broiler element.

So I made the job real easy I called a professional to come install the new broiler element.

I suggest you put a big red paper in each box that says turn off the power first. If your not sure how to do that call a pro.

My husband took the back off and replaced it. The repairman suggested pulling the range out into the floor to run the self clean mode. I have owned several such ranges and have never had to do that and won't now. Easy Clean Oven Cleaner will be the next thing I use.

Gas Oven would not work without door shutting all the way. New hinges fixed the problem! Removing Superba oven door was the challege. Kitchenaid has their manuals available online which you can look up using the model # available on side of oven door. It contained instructions for door removal which required two pins (one in each hinge) inserted in the hinge holes for the door to release when you pull up and out on it. Nails may be used to replace the pins but the tricky part is removing the nails from the old hinges to remove them from slots in oven door. I used a 12 inch piece of small PVC pipe as a lever, inserting the pipe on the exposed portion of the hinge. This released the nails. The oven door must be taken apart which required removal of screws on the inside face, top and bottom of oven door. It went easily back together and the problem was solved.

I first did a search with my issue, found out there were many others with the same issue. That then led me to see the part, a fuse / thermostat, was the culprit and easy to replace it seemed. But first called a service co. who confirmed my findings, and quoted a fix of a $2-300! So I bought the part; worse case I'd have someone else install. The web site noted the few screws to remove and a key suggestion to find a box of same height to easily slide out oven; I used a porter cable nail gun case which worked great. Took my time removing trim, mounting screws etc., slid out oven easy. Removed back plate and there was the older one. Removed and installed new in a minute. Spent more time cleaning around trim than actual install. What a great day it was. Wife was happy too!

1- TURN OFF POWER TO OVEN
2- REMOVE OVEN
3- REMOVE BACK PANEL SHROUDING
4- DISCONNECT POWER TO BLOWER
5- REMOVE BLOWER UNIT
5- REPLACE WITH NEW UNIT
6- RECONNECTED POWER
7- PUT OVEN BACK

First I cut off power ! 2 screws for oven trim,4 more to disconnect from cabinet. Hardest part was pulling oven out and pushing back in. I found a big box of correct size to rest it on so I didn't need to disconnect the powerline. 8 more screws to remove the back panel. 2 screws to remove the thermostat.Then put it back together. New part had arrived sooner than expected, cost of the part was less than a minimum service call would have been! I absolutly will use your site again.PS Wife was amazed and now thinks I'm a genious.

I removed the two stainless trim pieces (2 screws) and then two screws which hold the oven frame to the cabinet. Be careful to put a pad on your floor before you pull the oven out of the cabinet as there are sharp edges on the bottom of the oven. I removed apprximately 12 screws holding the back panel in place. The fixed set point thermostat is in middle toward the top of the oven cavity after removing the rear panel. Just remove two screws and slide the terminal connectors onto the new thermostat. Very easy job for someone who is not too handy.

Shut off power at breaker and removed oven door to lessen weight. Removed oven trim and retaining screws and tried pulling out of cabinet. Stuck on power cable, so had to remove Mircrowave oven above to get to power cable plug. Removed oven back cover panel to access thermostat. Easy to unplug and replace with new thermostat. Reassembled and turned on power. Cooked dinner in oven.

Once we figured out to use small allen wrenches in the small holes of the hinge to enable us to lift the door off everything went smoothly. Took out six screws, lifted out the hinges - inserted new ones, replaced screws and replaced door. Yipee

Cut the power. Undid the screws to the element. Popped off the old element replaced with new,put screws back in turned power back on and Shazam it was up and going

Thanks for the excellent service. Parts cheaper than local stores, arrived on time, with NO PROBLEMS.
Installation, probably 30-minutes. Took the opportunity to clean glass, door panels, etc while disassembled, so used about an hour. Oven cleaner was a big help in the cleanup.
Very rewarding project and it saves changing the unit and and refitting the countertop.

Repair was fairly simple, unscrewed oven from cabinet and pulled it out. Then remove screws on back panel to access the thermostat location. Unscrew old thermostat, unplug it from connectors and plug in new thermostat. Then screw back in place, replace cover and pop oven back in place. Now fire it up, worked for me! Thanks to part-select. Good luck everyone. Probably saved $200 service call.

Originally ordered just the spring assuming that might be it and it was the cheapest way. However after getting in I found that the latch assembly had a broken 'tit' that is intended to hold the metal latch in place as it moves. Attempted to glue w/ epoxy but as i expected there was too much pressure to hold it in place. So....ordered the assembly.

TURN OFF BREAKER.....

1) Remove the two side rails by removing screw on the inside bottom of rails.
2) It helps to remove the door to get it out of your way but not required. To do this open door fully and insert two nails or similar into holes on each hinge. Close the door until the hinge contact nails. Lift the door up and out.
3) remove the top control panel by removing screw on either side (outside of oven)and screws on the underside of panel behind upper door.
4) It help to completely remove the panel to have more room to work but not required. If you do it is a good idea to photo the cable locations so it is easy to recall where they go. For the most part they only fit one location but always a good idea.
5) remove the latch by removing all spade connectors and two screws in front.
6) place new latch and reassemble.

Remove the left/right outside trim on the double oven. To do this you will need a phillip screw driver. There is only one screw holding each side located at the bottom of the trim (on the inside between the trim and the door). Remove the trim by pulling out and down. Remove the bottom trim by removing the screws located on the outside of the trim. Remove the trim by pulling down and out. Replace the new trim by reversing the process making sure to replace bottom trim first because the outside trim goes over bottom trim to cover up the screws on the bottom trim

After turning of the breaker for the oven, I pulled out the oven, removed the back panel. The High-Temp thermal cutoff was attached to 2 wires, which I unplugged, and then removed the cutoff by removing two screws. I then replaced the part in reverse order, pushed the oven back into the cabinet, and turned the breaker back on.