GBD277PDB5 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

The tech said he used No 2 Phillip's. Once I took the door off and removed the racks I quickly learned a Phillips was not going to work. I am now the proud owner of a Kobslt star and square ratchet screwdriver.

Watched the repair video and started the project. Ran into a problem when trying to remove the interior panel off the door to reach the broken interior glass. On this model Kitchen Aid there is another section that is screwed in holding the exterior glass pieces in place. It prevents the interior panel from coming off the front of the oven door. So we had to flip over the door and unscrew the glass retaining bars to get the interior panel off and reach the glass. This allows the entire door to come apart in pieces so you have to carefully line up everything to re-assemble the door. Part of the issue with this is some of the retaining screws are not very long so you have to press the pieces back together to make sure the screw will catch in the original hole. We had to do this twice to ensure the interior door glass was laying flush on its mounts. A bit fiddly for sure, and if I was working alone it may not have been successful. But at least we know how the door is put together!

Unplugged old element unit and plugged in new element. Took two needle nose pliers and a flexible body. Took about 5 minutes. Works fine. Anybody can do it. Make sure power is off at the box.

1. Disconnect AC power 2. Remove back with several sheet metal screws. 3. Remove wires from Limit Thermostat. 4. Check Limit Thermostat continuity -- if open then Limit Thermostat is faulty. 5. Remove Limit Thermostat with two screws. 6. Install new thermostat

Removed locking device

Several professional appliance repair people told me I had to get a new oven (double, no less!) because "they don't make that hinge anymore." That would have been a $4-5K investment to replace two ovens that both work fine. I'm not generally a DIY person, but was inspired by a FB page I follow called "Handy Women." I got the model number out of my oven, googled "replacement hinge for ____," and found it on this site right away. $120 and about 1 week later I had my hinges. I found this video in the comments on this website that shows (without narration) exactly how to change the hinges.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XzQuU2gZYhk
The only mistake I made that cost me some time had to do with the little pins you have to put into the hinge to remove and replace the oven door. They were missing from the old hinges, and it didn't occur to me to use the ones that were in the new hinges (hadn't unboxed when I started.) I used threaded bolts that were the right diameter and length. They slid right in, but then when I went to take them out, it was an ordeal with WD-40 and an Allen wrench. Then it still didn't occur to me to look at the new ones, so I went to the hardware store and bought two more things the right size without threads. Of course when I took the new hinges out of the boxes they already had the little pins in them. Annoying and time consuming rookie mistake, but my oven door now closes just fine, and I'm getting a ridiculous amount of satisfaction from my little repair job!

Removed the door from oven removed screws from door and replaced the old hinges with new ones perfect match

First remove the side trimmings by opening the oven door and taking out the two screws near the bottom. Remove the bottom trim by removing the two screws now exposed. Here's the hard part .. The outer glass is held by 4 screws 2 at the top and 2 through U brackets at the bottom. You must remove the 2 bottom ones first and then VERY carefully, whilst supporting the glass remove the 2 top ones and then gently pull from the bottom to release the glass at the top and pull away. The rest is straightforward. There are 4 glass pieces to remove, make sure you clean the finger marks off as you replace them. I would suggest 2 people to replace the final outer glass 'to be safe"

unscrew cover
remove old bulb
screw in new bulb
replace cover

First we watched a YouTube on how to replace the thermostat. It was easy to turn off the circuit breaker. It was a little tricky to pull the range away from the wall and then we were able to unplug. Because our range is a dual fuel model, the back had a lot more screws to remove to get to the thermostat because there were covers over a lot of wires and the gas line I presume. However, we did get off the 12 or so screws with a regular screw driver. We easily located the thermostat and quickly realized that the two screws holding the thermostat in place were neither flat head nor phillips. We were able to remove one of them and merely twisted it sideways, installed the new thermostat with one screw and attached the wires. When we flipped the circuit breaker and plugged in the over, Voila, it worked. The hardest part was getting all the covers off the back. I hope it doesn't happen again because this was an expensive replacement part.

After we put the latch pins in, the door was easily lifted off. We placed the door on the table and unscrewed the trim pieces. The new trim pieces went into place after we cleaned the door. We slipped the door back on the oven and removed the hinge pins.

Well, the instructions on the computer site were very easy to understand, however, the difficulty lay in the fact that we were 2 78 yr old people and getting to the inside the oven, lifting up the element so that we could see where it should be connected and get it connected was a task. We had to get down on our knees and then get back up. That was a chore within itself. But, the instructions were easy and clear.
Bottom line if us old people can do it, anyone can.

Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.

Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.

ordered new broiler pan