G7CE3635XP00 Whirlpool Cooktop - Instructions

Took 2 screws under front edge of smooth top. Unscrewed ground wire from back of smooth top unit. Unplugged 2 wire bundles, from back. Took bad element out , put in new one. Put back together. About 10 min's tops. Easy peasy.

Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

really easy! Removed 2 screws under the glass top at the front, access from the open oven door, then removed the ground wire, removed the stove top, took the element holder off,( 2 screws)and replaced with new element, 30 minutes. I ordered the part and came within 18 hrs of ordering it, fantastic experience.

Lift the cooktop out of it's inset in the counter top, flip it upside down and lay it on towels to protect the cooking surface. There is a raised rectangular panel that covers the switches located about the center front of the bottom. Remove this panel with a small nut driver to expose the switches. Now, locate the dead switch and place a strip of masking tape pointing to it and lapping around the edge so it can be seen when the unit is flipped back upright. Flip cook top back upright. Locate the correct switch by observing the masking tape. There are two small, short-threaded, phillips screws holding the switch in place. They must be accessed from the knob hole (remove rubber grommet)and at a slight angle. There is very little room to extract the screws...this is where I used the magnet to magnitize the tip of a small screw driver. Once the screw is free of the threaded hole, lift it with the magnetized screwdriver out through the knob hole. The switch will fall out easily when the two screws are removed. If you drop one of the screws inside the stove top, don't panic, I was able to shake the cook top and retrieve the screw. Now, flip the top back upside down. Using a pair of pliers remove each wire one at a time from the bad switch and connect it to the same terminal on the new switch...this way there can be no mistakes. Be sure the rubber insulator removed from the bad switch and placed on the new one. Position it where the screw holes show through, then place the switch in position. Turn the top back over in the upright position but position it where you can reach underneath it with your left hand. You will have to hold the switch and maybe move it around slightly to aline the screw holes when replacing the screws. Take a screw on the end of the magnetized screwdriver and carefully insert it into the knob hole and into the switch bracket. once you get one started, the other will be easy. I don't recall the screw replacement being any problem, just that you have to handle the screws carefully, so as to not drop one inside the cook top. Now, flip the top back over and replace the cover over the switches and replace the top in it's cabinet. The job is complete, Oh, and don't forget to flip the stove's cirduit breaker BEFORE even touching the stove!

Remove top by opening oven and taking out two screws in the front. Lift up top and unplug wire connectors on bad element, writing down where they are landed. Take out screw on element bracket and replace. That easy. Be sure to unplug appliance for your safety. :-) Also just wanted to add that PartSelect was great. Ordered it on saturday and was cooking with it on tuesday. Great job.

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

Took off top and pulled out old element and plugged in the new one

pulled off the broken knob and replaced with the brnadu

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

I watched the video you provide and it answered all my questions. You estimate repair at 10 minutes. My wife said I waz done in under 10 minutes Watch the video, it explained every step and all the little tricks to the snap connections.

Ordered new element from PartSelect. It arrived shortly. It did not match the original. Guy at appliance store explained how I could connect the wires on the new one. It still did not fix the problem. A repair man tried for 2.5 hours to fix it with no success. Now I will return the replacement element in the return envelope provided.

Video said to remove screws and lift stove top off, remove contacts and ground. My stove top was hinged and required me to lift and pivot stovetop up. The burners were anchored to the stove base not the top. I secured the topso that it would not drop down and proceeded with repair

Two screws to remove glass top. 2 connectors to remove. Removed glass top and put it upside down. Remove 4 wires and 2 Phillips screws. Reverse steps.

Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.

just needed clearner for the top of my glass top, the operator was very helpful I received my clearniner in 7 days thank you