G3868XRA Maytag Range - Instructions

put the new element in the oven pushed wire onto connector on element held it up to match holes and put the screws back in, very easy to change. I really like the fast way I receive a part from you.

Unscrewed 2 screws holding terminal ends of the element in place. Eased the element out, until the two AC power wires were exposed. Pulled off the connectors from the element terminals (pretty tight fit - needed pliers to remove one of them).

Slipped the connectors onto the new element terminals, and eased the element back into the oven wall. Secured the element with the two screws removed previously, and that was pretty much all there was to it. Closed the circuit breakers, and the element tested OK.

Overall, a no-sweat job. One thing, though: I squeezed the oven connectors tight before pushing them back onto the new element. They had loosened up somewhat after pulling them off. A tight connection here seems pretty important, as arcing and corrosion could occur over time if they're too loose.

Repair tech checked oven and said the control panel was bad and needed to be replaced. The new control panel would cost over $450.00! I found that the oven sensor was bad and replaced it for $30.00. The old oven sensor had failed following a self cleaning cycle. I found that the wires coming out of it were burnt.

Replacing the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.

Before you touch anything unplug the range or trip the breaker. Pull the racks out of the oven, it gives more room to work. Remove the two screws that hold the element and pull the element out about 2-3". Disconnect the old element. Before you install the new element check the wire and the connectors for age and heat damage. If the connectors are loose replace them (2 connectors @ $1.97 is better than a short in the oven). If the insulation on the wire is degraded (brittle, flaking, brown) consider changing out the wiring. This means opening up the back of the oven and that is another chapter. In most cases you can just re-connect to the replacement element and attach it back to the oven with the two screws. I ran the oven to 400 degrees to just check that everything was OK. Spent a couple extra minutes to check everything out and save yourself pain later.

Removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires and then replaced the new heating element by connecting the wires and then placing the screws back in. Was a lil difficult because this unit has no oven light and it required a flash light.

Moved the Appliance out unplugged it and removed the backing plate then Remove the Knob and unscrew the infinite switch then marking the 5 wires to know where the go on the new switch, removing and replaced it with the new one

The repair was simple; I removed just two screws, pulled out the wires, and slipped the two spade connectors off the original element. The repair was simply the reverse of the disassembly. The only thing to remember is to throw the circuit breaker before handling the electrical connectors. Other than that, it couldn't be any more straight forward.

First removed the old gasket using a needle-nose pliers. Then placed new gasket by inserting the little clips on the gasket. Took 5 minutes. Great instructions from Repair Forum.

Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

I removed 4 screws and then lifted up the top it gave me access to the element I followed the direction that came with the element (very clear to follow) removed and installed the new element and it worked fine. Remember to unplug the stove if it is electric this is not in the instructions.

First I removed two screws that hold the oven sensor in place. I then removed the screws that held the panel on the back of the oven. I simply unclipped the plastic adaptor and replaced the old sensor with the new one. I screwed the sensor back in and put the back panel on. turned the power back on to the oven and hit the bake button. Voila!! The oven turned on and now it works like new!!!

First I opened the door to the oven. Then I opened the box that the part came in. (knife) I then slid the oven rack out of the box and unwrapped the plastic, being careful not to bend or scratch the new rack. Now, this is the tricky part... I had to move the existing rack down one space to make room for the new one. Then carefully slid the new rack in, tipping it slightly and sliding it in. LOL

Turned off the power at the breaker box. Removed the two screws, pulled the element out about 3 inches, disconnected the two wires, reconnected the two wires to the new element, inserted element back into place, screwed in the screws...all finished...works great! Delivery was super fast...just a great experience all the way around.

Remove racks and pull out stove from wall. Remove back cover from stove. Unscrew and unplug sensor. Rethread new sensor wire through hole and plug in new sensor and rescrew plate that holds in place.

We had complications because of how the stove was installed, which delayed the "fix" time considerably.

Also installed ignitor. It was determined that both were bad. Gas would come on but not light. When oven would light, it would not re-light periodically to keep the temperature up, causing gas smell. This added time to repair of an additional 1 hour, and required removal of bottom drawer.

My oven stopped working and the display read F3 error. I looked up the code and found that it was probably the thermostat sensor. I ordered the part from partselect.com and when it arrived I went to install it but I ran into a somewhat scary issue. I found that I had to pull my oven out of the wall in order to replace the sensor.

After a minor nervous breakdown, I decided to go for it and found that it was much easier than I had imagined. Changing the sensor involves taking out the two screws that hold the sensor in place (inside of the oven), pulling it out to the point you can reach the connector, plugging in the new sensor and screwing it back in place. However, if you have an oven like my model, you have to pull out the whole oven from the wall in order to reach the plug on the sensor. This sounds like a lot of trouble but for me it was very easy. The oven is held in place with screws around the front side. Most are easily accessed and you don't have to take out any critical/complicated pieces of the oven. My screw gun made short issue of the problem and I found that the oven was out of the wall within minutes. I could then easily unscrew a small back cover, change the sensor and then screw the oven back into the wall. Being very careful, the whole operation took about 20 minutes. I recommend that you get help from a friend just because the oven is bulky. It is not heavy, an average sized male can handle the weight but it’s easier with a friend. Also, be careful that the gas hose which feeds the oven is long enough (and not tangled) for you to move the oven out of its space. Obviously, be careful about gas leaks.