Models > FWT449GFS1 > Instructions

FWT449GFS1 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for FWT449GFS1 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the FWT449GFS1
76-90 of 313
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The original plastic door catch was broken

  • Customer: Gregory from Hollis NH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the 2 screws holding the broken door catch in place, and attached the new door catch with them. The repair could not have been easier, and now the door works great.

Also, I ordered the part, and it arrived via FedEx the next day. That greatly exceeded my expectations!

Tank would not stop filling.

  • Customer: John from Willis TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced both the water inlet valve and the tank pressure switch to eliminate any possible cause. The repair was easy, and now the washer works fine.

The washer would not pump the water out of the drum before the spin cycle.

  • Customer: Sven from Durand MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First of all unplug your washer from the power supply and turn off the hot and cold water supply. I removed the front lower panel of the washing machine with a philips head screwdriver. Next I removed the plastic pins holding the right side shock obsorber. This was a little difficult because the upper pin is in a tight location and there's not much room to push the pin out. I just used the flat end of a screwdriver and slid it in place. The pins take some effort to push out, mainly because you have to hold the little tab on the pin down while you push it out. The replacement shock seems to be better constructed. I just put a little Vaseline on the new pins to help them slide through the metal sleeves on the ends of the shock. You also have to pay attention to which way the sleeves go into the shock so you don't push them out when you install the shock.

Replacing the pump was pretty easy. The pump is right there in front fastened to the bottom plate with two philips head screws. Have some towels ready, because if there's water in the drum or hoses it's coming out when you remove the hoses. Take a pair of pliers, or channel locks and open the hose clamp on the big inlet line, coming from the drum and slide it back so you can remove the hose. Then do the same for the outlet hose on the left side of the pump. It's easier to do this before you take the pump off the bottom plate. Once the hoses are off, remove the pump with a philips head screwdriver. While you have the pump out of the way, feel around inside the square reservior at the bottm of the big inlet hose to make sure there's nothing in there that might get stuck in the pump. A large bobby pin had made it's way into my pump and damaged it. It had fallen back down in that reservior, so at first I couldn't understand why the pump wasn't working, til I found it in there. Insatllation of the new pump is just reverse of disassembly. After that turn your water supply back on and plug in power. You might want to cycle the machine before you put the front cover back on to check for leaks. Good luck!

Kenmore 417.41042000 Front loading washer shakes

  • Customer: Chris from Burtonsville MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Paid $27 total for a shock kit to replace the 2 broken stock shocks. Replaced them. It turns out it was not the problem, but just a symptom of the spider bracket (mates inner SS drum to drive shaft) corroding and breaking causing the drum assembly to shake out of balance. Found out is a systematic problem with this model washer, and no matter what else you fix, this will break and kill it at some point. Piece of crap!

20 cents in nickels destroyed pump. Pump vibrated violently afterwards.

  • Customer: Mark from San Diego CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
1. Removed bottom cover - torx driver and drill adapter.
1.5 Unplugged machine and disconnected electrical supply to old pump.
2. Removed flexible hoses with wrench.
3. Removed pump base from machine with torx driver - the hard part as small hands are needed
4. Connected new pump to machine base with torx driver - hard again.
5. Connected hoses - wrench
6. Connected electrical supply and plugged in.
7. Tested pump - very quiet again.
8. That's it! Don't pay a service guy $250 to do this. Buy the pump and do it yourself!

old pump was viberating so bad that the whole machine rattled

  • Customer: Ed from Irrigon OR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Very easy, took off the lower front cover (two screws). Pump is on the right side up front. Took the two screws out that hold it down, unclamped the clamps inlet and outlet hoses. Put a towel under and around pump to catch water befor pulling pump out. Installed the new one in revers order.

leaking water inlet valve

  • Customer: Steven from Oklahoma City OK
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
removed the two 'lock down flanges' from the back of the machine, lifted the top from the front and slid it forward to access the valve. Removed the two electrical connections then the compression ring from the hose on the output side. Removed two screws holding the valve in place, then reversed the process.

I wish this valve was made of metal rather than plastic. I had to replace it because the threads were stripped. Here's the heads up. Make sure the fittings on your supply hoses are 'clean' or you'll mess up the plastic threads and not get a good seal.

Washer would function for 2 to 3 minutes and then pause. "PAU" appearing on the display.

  • Customer: Stephen from Amarillo TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Apparently the faulty switch was causing the washer to think that the door was open which would pause the wash cycle. The temporary fix was to disconnect/reconnect the door lock/switch assembly, thereby resetting the switch. Eventually though, the switch had to be replaced. The repair was simple. Unplug washer from power. Remove the metal band and spring from around the perimeter of the door seal. (I had to use needle-nose pliers for this step). Loosen the rubber seal near the door latch area only. Remove old latch by unscrewing the two screws, and disconnect all wired connections. Reconnect wired connectors using the new part and screw back on to the washer using the two screws. Reseat the rubber door seal and hold in place using the metal ring and spring you removed in the first step. Plug washer back in to power. That's it.

Basket loose and banging around - both shocks broken

  • Customer: Christopher from Woodbury CT
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
-Unplug machine and remove all water connections
-Remove back panel with power phillips screwdriver
-Removed some rectangular circuit box in the way of getting to one shock absorber (3 screws)
-Remove old shock absorbers with 1/2 inch socket (suggested in accompanying directions)- this took 2 minutes
-inserted new shocks as directed...this was the most difficult part, but used a hammer to bang into place.
-reinsert and screw down circuit box (or whatever it was)
-reattach back panel
-reestablish water hose connections
-plugged in and was in business
-had ordered a washer/dryer set for $1700 (at my parent's urging) and now can tell Sears to go pound sand!

excessive vibration

  • Customer: Jon from Holland MI
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the instalation instructions provided with new parts. Getting the mounting pins out was relatively easy However, the shock on the right, behind the pump, was a bit more difficult to remove than the one on the left. I took the rubber drain off the pump in order to get at the pin behind the pump. The new replacement shocks came with the plastic bushings inserted in the shocks in alternate directions. The original pins were all inserted into the bracket / shocks from the rear so when I installed the new shocks I reinserted one bushing on each shock so they we both oriented in the same direction. The instruction says to be sure the mounting pin is pressed from the side with the busing collar. It seemed strange the shocks came that way, with no mention of switching them. The most difficult part on the installation was pushing the pins back through the bracket and shock since there was no easy way to push the pins in from the rear. I used a large channel locks on the left side, but the right side was more difficult with all of the obstructions. I finally was able to push in place with my bare hands but was very difficult. Sorry to say the new shocks did not cure the vibration at all. I was very careful to make sure the machine is level. I'm not sure if there is a cure other than replacing the machine.

Water would not drain from washer

  • Customer: Beverly from Chiefland FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
The drain pump was easily acessible at the front of the washer. There were only two screws to remove. However the two clamps holding the in/out drain pipes were a bit tough to release. When installing the new part, it made it easier to attach the drain pipes first before reattaching the two screws. We were able to get one clamp on fairly easily but the other we finally gave up on and put the old fashioned screw-type clamp on. It worked fine.

Door catch was broken.

  • Customer: Marylinda J. from Dana Point CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Removed two screws and replaced catch, attached screws.

One problem, the door still would not close tightly enough for the washer to operate. It is now necessary to use a shim to cause full closure. Do you have any other solution?

Kenmore Front Load Washer - Would not Drain

  • Customer: Jeffrey from Holly Springs NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I used a shop vac to remove the excess water which would not drain from the drum - this is key to not flooding your laundry room. I removed the 2 machine screws at the bottom of the front panel. The panel removes easily which exposes the pump at the front lower right of the washer. I disconnected the electrical connection on the pump. Using the shop vac I slowly removed the hose connectionns at the suction and discharge sides of the pump. Following the disconnect of the hoses screws hold the pump to the base of the washer. Upon removal of the old pump you re-install the new in the reverse order. One item to note is that I purchased 2 hose clamps to replace the spring loaded OEM clamps for the hoses - this greatly aids in reinstallation. Re-install the front cover and you are ready. Total time to repaire 30 minutes - very easy!

The door latch was broken from opening the door before the end of cycle release.

  • Customer: Steven from Anchorage AK
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
First I tried to unscrew the two screws holding the latch with a phillips screwdriver. When it wanted to slip, I took a closer look at the screw heads and saw they were square drive. I got the proper tool and removed the screws, replaced the latch and replaced the screws in a few minutes.

timer knob broken off

  • Customer: Daniel from Rogers AR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Easiest repair I've ever done. Spun off the remainder of the old broken know assembly, and spun on the new part. It fit perfectly.
All Instructions for the FWT449GFS1
76-90 of 313