Models > FWT449GFS1 > Instructions

FWT449GFS1 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for FWT449GFS1 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the FWT449GFS1
256-270 of 313
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Door catch was broken so the door couldn't lock & machine would not run.

  • Customer: Nona from Fontana WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
So simple! Used a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the broken catch & install the new one. Took about five minutes total. The part arrived within two days.

Washer wouldn't spin shut off with 6 mintes to go

  • Customer: michelle from swanzey NH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I found this wonderful web site, after removing the cover and running a diagnostic to find it was either the door lock or the TCP control board. Control board unable to find any information on was scared to call the repair man as they usually cost about $500.00. I am a single mother and order the door lock and just like that I was able to repair it myself. Thanks you so much!!!

washer would not go into full speed spinning

  • Customer: Joe from San Diego CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off electricity. Unscrewed top panel. Took off top panel. opened door. Unscrewed door lock. Pulled lock up. Unplugged connections. Plugged in new part, positioned, and screwed in. Replaced top panel

DRAIN PUMP FAILED

  • Customer: Chris from Jacksonville FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the old drain pump by detatching the drain hose and drain boot i replaced the old clamps with the screw type hose clamps which made it easier to install. I then removed the 2 mounting screws securing the drain pump to the base of the washer, replaced the pump by attaching the drain and drain boot and secured the pump to the base of the washer and the washer worked fine.

water leaking into the washer

  • Customer: William from Tucson AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I used this website to look at the parts breakdown the only way water can get into the machine is thru the solenoid valve. Ordered valve.Followed the video on how to replace valve.I pulled apart the old valve. The plastic seat was cracked,letting water seep into the machine.

Plastic tab on door latch broken off.

  • Customer: Victor D from Nashville TN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Repair went as easy as any job could go. Remove two screws, remove broken latch, replace with new latch, replace two screws. Done.

Pump runs but washer will not spin

  • Customer: Thomas from Santa Fe NM
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Installation of Part # 131-763-202 door lock and switch Assy.

Note that the only reasonable access to the lock and switch Assy is by removing the front of the gasket between the drum and the cabinet. It is also the only necessary access.

This problem is unique to older models. My experience was a bit frustrating but the solution was finally found. While it took me a long time (and extra parts) to figure out the problem, the solution is actually pretty easy.

IF you have an machine with a black striker/catch on the door, the installation is not entirely straightforward, The black striker/catch on the door has an L-shaped lower prong that engages the door latch. This striker/catch will NOT work with the newer door lock. The required striker/catch is part # 134-456-600. It is white, and has a diamond-shaped upper prong.

When you remove the older-style lock (Part # 1231-269-400) that accepts the black striker/catch, you will immediately notice that there are more electrical connections on the new part than on the old. This requires some minor rewiring.

The two connections (Bl/W and w) that go to the latch solenoid are unchanged and attach to the brown solenoid on the new part.

The arrangement of the other connections on the new lock/latch is as follows (numbering is mine)

1 2 3 4 5 6

Terminals 2 and 3 are the “PTC” and must be connected to the red (double) and white wires that are on a special double plug. The plug must be cut off and replaced by regular (F) spade connectors. DO NOT be tempted to insert the double plug into the new lock. Although it fits, it does NOT work.

Connect the two door-lock switch wires (Bk and Bk/R) to terminals 5 and 6.

Note that with the new lock, the machine has to rest a while before the catch is released, the door catch is not released as soon as the door-lock light goes off.

Note also that the actuation of the switch in the door lock is NOT purely mechanical as in the older door lock. Pressing the striker/catch into the lock will NOT close the contacts between terminals 5 and 6. Some magic happens inside the door lock mechanism through the PTC that closes this switch. This same magic is probably responsible for the delay in releasing the door latch. This drove me crazy for a while as I thought the lock and switch Assy was defective.

broke time knob

  • Customer: vincent from SILVERTON OR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
used a pair of pliers to remove broke handle and screwed the new one on. done

Machine wouldn't spin

  • Customer: Jennifer from League city TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Removed 2 screws , unplugged the old switch , replaced with new one and secured with screws . Easy !!

Water would not drain

  • Customer: Margaret from Manassas VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I am a 63 year old woman. This was the third time the pump would not drain due to a jammed up water pump. I had paid around $200 TWICE for a service man to fix this. He said it was a common problem with this model of washing machine. I thought next time it happened, I was going to buy a new machine. So when the third time came around, I thought I would take a look before junking the whole machine, it seems like such a waste. The pump was not jammed up, so I needed a new pump. I have gone this far, so I thought I would try to replace the pump. THANKS to your video instructions, it looked like something I could do. Had problems getting the back hose back on. AGAIN THANKS to your video instructions I watched Steve put on the back hose about six times until I got his technique down pat. Do not know if I could have done it without studying Steve's technique. Thank you so much. I feel so powerful and good about myself. Did not junk a washing machine for one part. Go green!

tub leak at seam in front load washer

  • Customer: Pamela from Portland OR
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Slowly took apart things to be able to get tub out and checked wear of parts. Our spider was in good shape, sounds like depending on your water the spider can in bad shape. Can't buy spider alone have to get $250+ assembly if that is bad. All other parts looked OK so ordered and replaced gasket and cleaned up other items as re-assembled. Takes time, but is do-able. Best with 2 people. Used youtube video to step through disassembly. After putting it back together no leak.

Uncontrollable shaking/bouncing

  • Customer: Clay from Tallahassee FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I simply read what another person wrote, which was ; Once I figured out that the shocks were broken it was very easy to fix. Remove back panel first. Then remove the control box on bottom left corner to gain access to the left shock.(I didnt have to do this part. I got this from front, bottom panel) Pinch the locking mechanism on the plastic locker bolts and remove the four bolts from both shocks. Replace with new shocks and replace control box and back panel. It probably took more time moving the washer to where I could work on it then it did to fix it. Works like new. ( it was just this easy)

Washer would not go into spin cycle

  • Customer: Brian from Brillion WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
1. Remove the spring clamp around the tub seal. 2. Pull back the tub seal in the area by the door lock switch. 3. Remove the switch assembly by removing two Phillips screws. 4. Remove connectors from switch. 5. Install connectors onto new switch. 6. Mount new switch on washer with two Phillips screws. Reinstall tub seal making sure to tuck it correctly on the washer frame. 7. Reinstall spring clamp.

Two broken shocks

  • Customer: Jeff from Thousand Oaks CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug. Remove front lower cover panel. The trick is getting the old pins out and the solution was the alternate method provided in the written instructions that came with the shock kit. Use a deep 13mm or 1/2" socket over the pin end to depress the locking tab. After that, it is just a matter of prying the pins out. I was able to salvage all of my existing pins and the new (different design which will hopefully hold up much better) shocks went in pretty easily. The shock kit was reasonably priced but replacement pin were incredibly overpriced, so I was motivated to salvage the ones installed.

fills but will not spin.

  • Customer: Daniel from Wyoming MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
This is the second part I have put on it and it still does not work. It is now leaking some also. So tonight I replaced it.
All Instructions for the FWT449GFS1
256-270 of 313