FWT449GFS1 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

Very easy to replace the assembly. Just twist counterclockwise to unscrew and replace with new assembly. You can probably complete without any tools, but the pliers will give you some leverage if needed.

NO EXPERIENCE NECESSARY!!
Unplug electrical.
Remove lower front panel -2 screws.
Locate drain pump in front right .
Remove electrical wiring plug - press release clip.
Remove mounting to floor - 2 screws.
Remove two hose clamps - pilers.
Mount in new part - 2 screws.
Reattach two hose clamps - pilers
* be sure hoses are fully reattached.
Attached electrical wiring plug.
Attach front panel - 2 screws
Plug in the electrical and be proud of your accomplishment because you just saved a minimum of US$200.00. Congrats.

Apparently the faulty switch was causing the washer to think that the door was open which would pause the wash cycle. The temporary fix was to disconnect/reconnect the door lock/switch assembly, thereby resetting the switch. Eventually though, the switch had to be replaced. The repair was simple. Unplug washer from power. Remove the metal band and spring from around the perimeter of the door seal. (I had to use needle-nose pliers for this step). Loosen the rubber seal near the door latch area only. Remove old latch by unscrewing the two screws, and disconnect all wired connections. Reconnect wired connectors using the new part and screw back on to the washer using the two screws. Reseat the rubber door seal and hold in place using the metal ring and spring you removed in the first step. Plug washer back in to power. That's it.

After the new replacement part arrived, I took off the complete back panel (after unplugging the electrical and shutting off the hot & cold water supply). I disconnected both hot & cold water hoses, unscrewed the 2 screws holding the water valve, unplugged the 2 electrical wires for the water valve sending unit, unclamped the outlet water hose. Then I reversed order with new water valve. Put everthing back together in about 20 minutes overall. I did also replace the hot & cold water supply hoses with a better quality hose. Works like new! Thank you very much.

removed the two 'lock down flanges' from the back of the machine, lifted the top from the front and slid it forward to access the valve. Removed the two electrical connections then the compression ring from the hose on the output side. Removed two screws holding the valve in place, then reversed the process.

I wish this valve was made of metal rather than plastic. I had to replace it because the threads were stripped. Here's the heads up. Make sure the fittings on your supply hoses are 'clean' or you'll mess up the plastic threads and not get a good seal.

S/O Water , Removed front panel, removed screws from side panel water valve accessible. Removed screws that hold water valve, installed new valve reassembled washing machine.

I installed this part on a stackable washer-dryer unit. First, I removed the hoses (one had broken off already, damaging the cold water coupling). Using a nut driver I removed the screws on both L-brackets in back that help secure the dryer unit to the washer base. Then, I located 2 other screws securing the dryer to the washer base. These were fairly accessible in the recess where the dryer exhaust vent is located, directly above the water inlet valve. I removed both with a nut driver. I thought I would have to also unscrew 2 more screws on the other side of the dryer, but these were not accessible. So I lifted the side of the dryer I had unbolted to get to the water inlet valve. And voila! It lifted up. I placed a 2x4 on edge to keep the dryer tilted open. The inlet valve is attached to the back inside of the washer by a single screw on the Kenmore, which I removed with a phillips screw driver. Reaching inside the back of the washer, I disconnected the water hose by pinching the retaining clip with pliers. Then I pulled the electrical connections off the the hot and cold solenoids and the unit came out. The replacement unit was installed in reverse.

First called a repairman.Wanted over $300 to put a new door lock assembly in.Searched the web, found PartsSelect,bought part for less than $75,husband did repair in less than 30 min.
VERY happpy customer.

THANKS

Removed top cover of washer to get to the door lock mechanism then used a phillips head screwdriver to remove door lock mechanism. I then replaced door lock mechanism with the new one I bought from PartsSelect. The repair job was very easy and took a total of 15 minutes to remove old part and install new one.

First thought the problem was with the spin cycle, however it soon became clear it was the pump that wasn't draining the water that kept the spin cycle from doing it's thing. After hand-wringing a large load and shopvacing out the remaining water, I ordered the new pump, got it in two days, and did a quick change out and it works perfectly. During the removal of the rubber boot that connects the tub to the pump, the one thing I did discover was a yucky buildup of years of fabric softener which I couldn't break my wife from using. But, after showing, and more importantly, letting her SMELL the fungus/mildew in the sludge, I've finally broken her of the habit! Best bang for the repair buck so far.

first took off old pump off by removing 2 screws and removed 2drain hoses under front load washer with pair of pliers then put new pump on same as removal.

Paid $27 total for a shock kit to replace the 2 broken stock shocks. Replaced them. It turns out it was not the problem, but just a symptom of the spider bracket (mates inner SS drum to drive shaft) corroding and breaking causing the drum assembly to shake out of balance. Found out is a systematic problem with this model washer, and no matter what else you fix, this will break and kill it at some point. Piece of crap!

Very simple! Found the part using the diagrams and photographs on this site. When it came, my husband ust pulled the remainder of the broken knob off the little post with a pair of needle-nosed pliers. Slid the new knob on. It took longer to find the pliers than to make the repair!

Had to replace one Spring on top of the tub and both shock absorbers. Anyone with even a limited amount of mechanical ability could handle this repair. Save yourself about $300 in repair cost and replace these items yourself. Spring and Shocks absorber kit cost less than $60 with shipping.

Just look at the diagram that comes with the parts, it's a piece of cake. The most difficult part is replacing the spring, she is stiff. You will need to take the top of the machine off, which is super easy, and remove the metal keeper on top of the frame rail. Get someone to help you as you will need to lift the tub and slip the spring over the frame rail.

The shocks are the easiest part of the repair, and should take less than five mins. to replace.

disconnected electric and water supply. removed back cover from front loading washer. removed two screws from spring end plate on the top of the washer. replaced old spring with new spring/insulators by lifting the tub and hooking the new spring on. replaced the back cover and top spring cover plate. reconnected water supply and electric. machine is working like it did before the spring broke. very easy fix. the majority of the effort was moving the washer around to get easy access.