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FWT445GES2 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for FWT445GES2 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the FWT445GES2
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Door on washer wouldn't lock or start

  • Customer: DOUG from KING FERRY NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 156 of 187 people found this instruction helpful
1. Unplug unit.
2. Unscrew 2 nuts holding top in place in rear of unit using phillips head screwdriver.
3.Slide top back and remove.
4. Open door of washer and unscrew 2 screws holding in door lock unit.
5.Pull out unit from the top and install new unit reconnecting the 3 wire connections.

Drum making loud noise

  • Customer: Scott from Riverview FL
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 84 of 99 people found this instruction helpful
Turned out drum brackets were corroded, so drum and shell-rear/brg and gasket needed replacing

1. Disconnect power and water lines
2. Remove rear and top panels
3. Remove control knobs, Assembly, soap dispenser, and Assembly cons frame/trim
4. Remove all screws from control panel mounting bracket (panel-cont mtg wing bend), disconnect easy wires to get to so you can flip it on it's edge when the time comes - no need to remove completely
5. Disconnect hoses running to shell-rear/brg
6. Remove the motor (motor-Sole) and belt
7. Place foam pad and/or jack with pad on it underneath shell (it's gonna be very heavy when you remove it - two men or a jack required)
8. Lift and remove the two spring/sleeves that support the shell.
9. Remove two level-shocks below shell or at a minimum remove one of the pins on each
10. Remove Spring boot from bellow
11. Lower and remove entire shell
12. Remove the weight, upper back from the rear shell and the counterweights from the front shell (can leave front weights if you want to, but probably easier to work with without them on. Note: be careful, these all crack/chip very easily)
13. Remove the screws that hold the rear shell to the front shell
14. Remove the pulley screw and pulley (may take a little wiggling or tapping with rubber mallet to loosen)
15. Separate the rear shell from front shell.
16. Remove the drum from the rear shell (may also require some wiggkling/tapping with rubber mallet)

Note: I did this from memory, so probably missed some steps - just use your parts manual to ensure you know what you're looking at and it will help you through the process.

Good luck. I figure I saved about $700 to $1200 since the estimated repair costs were so high, I would have simply had to buy a new washer.

Both vibration shock absorbers broken

  • Customer: Douglas from Medical Lake WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 57 of 64 people found this instruction helpful
removed 2 screws and removed top access cover. removed 2 screws and removed front access cover. removed 4 retaining pins (one with nammer and punch because it was stuck) connected lower ends of new shocks with plastic pins, extended each shock to slip fit and connected upper ends to wash tub mounts. Reinstalled panels. I wish I could say that it all went well from there but......when the shocks broke, apparently the hit the motor took was enough to cause an electronic failure of the speed cycle control chip. Now Im waiting for that part.

Washer would not spin

  • Customer: Keith from Sayville NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 53 of 58 people found this instruction helpful
Door lock takes a beating due to flimsy washer door which does not align well and subsequently gets slammed each time which causes lock to malfunction telling the washer that it is not locked. Due to safety the washer will not go into the spin mode. Remove top lid (2 screws) open washer door and loosed the 2 screws holding the lock assembly in place. Reach down into the washer and unsnap the 3 wire harnesses. Reverse to reinstall. Very easy.

Inner support spring and vibration shock both broke - tub dropped down within the washer

  • Customer: Eric from Hillsboro OR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 41 of 46 people found this instruction helpful
Remove power
Remove water connections
Pull out washer to have sufficient room to access the back and the top.
Removed the top panel (4 screws at top- back)
Removed the back panel (a lot of screws)
Removed small metal retainer strip on top edge over broken spring
Removed broken spring, hung top of new one.
Pulled up tub to as I stretched out the spring to mount spring to tub
From the back, unplug and remove 2 crews holding the electronic motor control unit from lower left

For both shocks:
This was the most "difficult" part - locate the 2 plastic retainer pins holding the shock, locate the tooth (or tab) holding the pin in place and push the tab in (I had to use some leverage - its stiff plastic covered in grease - a spare screwdriver handle helps to push the tab down).

After pins are removed, shock just pulls out (weight of the tub handled by the suspension springs).

Replace with new shocks (1 pack has a pair), replace pins.

Reinstall motor control unit.

Reassemble frame. reattach water supply lines.

I had to plug in the washer, activate a cycle, then unplug/plug in the washer again.

It helps to have a screwdriver attachment for a variable speed drill to handle all of the screws.

All told - about 45 minutes, most of this spent on removing the pins.

PUMP MOTOR FAILED

  • Customer: Thomas from Walpole MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 33 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
First, remove the 2 screws that hold the lower front cover in place, remove the cover and disconnect the plug and the ground wires from the pump. Next attach the washing machine drain hose to a wet vac, since even if the machine is empty, there will still be water in the outer tub and the pump. Suck the whole thing dry, remove the 2 bolts that hold the cover onto the pump, use a pliers to remove the 2 hose clamps, remove the hoses (no mess because of the vacuum). Remove the 2 screws that hold the pump to the base of the washer and remove the pump. Save the mounting bracket from the bottom of the pump. Orient the outlet on the new pump to match your old one if needed, instructions to do this are included with the new pump. Install the mounting bracket onto the new pump. Mount the pump to the washing machine base, reconnect the hoses, the cover and the wiring. Put the drain hose back into your drain. Run the machine, check for function and leaks. If all is well, replace the lower cover. Don't forget to tell your wife that the job was a whole lot harder than it looked.

originall shock was broken

  • Customer: Richard from Quincy MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 29 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
disconnected the power and water supply.

removed the back panel.

unscrewed the contol board that blocked access to the bottom of the shock absorber.

pulled the original pins out with pliers while pressing in the piece that prevents it from working its way out.

removed the shock absorber.

placed the new shock absorber in the bottom mount, put soap on the pin for lubrication and pushed it through the hole. Put the top of the shock absorber in its place and placed the other pin in.

replaced the control board and replaced the rear panel.

washer continued to fill to point of overflow

  • Customer: alvaro from east hampton NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 26 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
FIRST I REMOVED THE TOP PANEL HELD BY FOUR SCREWS AT REAR OF PANEL, PULLING THE PANEL FOWARD AND UP. THEN DISCONNECTED THE POWER AND WATER CONNECTIONS. THEN I REMOVED THE TWO SCREWS HOLDING THE FLOW VALVE TO THE WASHER REAR PANEL,PULLED THE VALVE FOWARD ,REMOVED THE TWO ELECTRIC CONNECTORS, PINCHED THE WATER CLAMP WITH PLIERS AND REMOVED THE WATER CONNECTION TO THE VALVE. THEN REPLACED WITH THE NEW VALVE FOLLOWED THE ABOVE STEPS IN REVERSE ORDER, FINISHING UP BY RE PLACING THE WATER CONNECTIONS AND POWER. THEN CHECKED FO PROPER REPLACENENT AND LEAKS BEFORE REPLACING TOP PANEL.

The Pull knob for the washer timer "pulled" off. Needed to replace the knob.

  • Customer: Jerry from Algonquin IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 23 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
This was super easy. If you can screw and unscrew a nut from a bolt, its that easy.
The Knob assembaly comes as a whole. So once you remove the old knob (unscrew to the Left).

Then replace the new knob assy (screw to the Right) till its a snug fit. As you will see this knob is designed to be a clockwise rotation only - normal operation - sort of a self tightening screw.

Tub loose

  • Customer: Mel from Ipswich MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 23 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
Take off the back, one of the shock absorbers was broken, it was very obvious. Looked up part at partselect.com, very easy, ordered part, it came in 2 days, the repair took another 15 minutes. There were directions inside the repair part to tell you a trick to get the old one off. It worked like a charm. Why spend $200-300 or more on a repair on a $500 washer when you can do the entire job for about $30 and get it back working in 2 days!! No brainer.

motor burned out, tub quit going around

  • Customer: Carmen from Foreston MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 25 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
First I turned off the water and disconnected the hoses. I took off the back panel and unscrewed the 4 bolts holding the motor in place. The grounding screw was impossible to remove, so I had to cut the wire off. Took out motor and disconnected the electrical connector. Put new motor in (ordered new belt, figuring it would need replacing - was still in excellent shape, but replaced it anyway), bolted in the motor (socket set works best on further away bolts, screwdriver for closer ones). Put the belt on the motor first and then pulled it up over the side of the tub and turned the tub to get it around the whole tub - took alittle bit of turning to get it on. Plugged in electrical connector and screwed grounding wire into hole. Replaced back panel and water hoses. Got a bit dirty and sweaty but not too hard to do it yourself, as I am a 48 yr woman and don't usually do this kind of thing.

Rear tube brackets broke, made a banging sound in final spin

  • Customer: Mike from Clear Lake MN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 23 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
My repair went well except I removed the rubber seal between the tube shell and front door, BIG MISTAKE! Next time I will leave the front half of the tube shell in tack in the washer and just remove the rear half of the shell. If it wasn't for having to reinstall the rubber seal between the tube shell and the front door, the whole project could have been down in under two hours.

Food for thought next time! :-)

washer would not go into final fast spin cycle. Clothes would still be extremly wet. When in drain and spin would drain and then spin slowly around 7 minutes left in cycle would shut off.

  • Customer: Toni from Lockport IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 21 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
Using a screw driver I removed the spring loaded band from around the rubber boot inside the door. You only need to remove the band and then pull the boot from the bottom around to the side. You do not need to fully remove boot. Unscrew locking mechanism. Slide out to be able to see connections. Remove connections. Replace mechanism, reattaching connections into appropriate spots. Replace mechanism and rescrew in. Replace rubber boot by pulling gently out and working rubber V of boot under the metal slot. Once the boot is replaced, replace the metal band making sure the spring is at the bottom of the boot. Wahlah!!! Washer is working perfectly.

Front Door on Washer leaking

  • Customer: Jason from Austin TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 27 of 43 people found this instruction helpful
I bought this as much for the instructions as for the part...as I wasn't sure how to get a spring back around the bellows. The instructions were good, however I found that the spring went on best when I had two sets of hands - one set holding the spring in place (with a metal tool to make sure it didn't slip - as the rubber spacer didn't do the job) , and the other hand guiding the spring around the rest of the bellow. Also, when putting the metal clamp back around the water inlet area, I didn't have 3/8" soft copper tube on hand, so I used a couple of other tools to get the metal pieces to wrap around eachother. Also, leaning the washer back on the wall helped make room for my hands to get into the machine and do the work.

Bearing/whining noise loudest during spin cycle

  • Customer: Mihaela from DAVENPORT IA
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 20 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
I first removed the top and rear panels to expose the shell, then removed belt and motor. I used a 2 jaw pulley puller to remove rear pulley, there are 5 spokes in the pulley so the puller did not fit well but I managed to hook on the pulley and hit the puller with a hammer and it came off. A better way would have been using a 5 jaw puller and installing the bolt a few threads in the drum shaft to protect the threads. I removed the rear concrete counter weight then removed the lower shock absorber pins at the shell and placed shocks to the side, this left the shell hanging on the springs. I decided to split the shell in the machine to avoid removing the front half of the shell, so I removed 20 bolts holding the shell halves together [difficult] and propped the front half of the shell up on wood blocks to release weight on springs. I then removed springs because they hook into both halves of the shell. This freed the rear half of the shell with the drum. I took the rear shell/drum assembly and placed the shell on 2 saw horses with the drum shaft vertical and the drum hanging freely with cardboard on the floor beneath to catch the drum, then installed an old bolt in the drum shaft to protect the shaft and threads and hit the old bolt with a hammer driving the drum shaft from bearings. Do not hit the shaft directly with a hammer, it will dammage the shaft and the pulley will not go back on. I cleaned corrosion from shaft and seal area with very fine sand paper and lubricated same with oil. The drum shaft slid easily into the new bearings on the new shell and I reassembled the machine in reverse order. Thank you to the others who wrote about this repair. The information was very helpfull.
Jim Swanson
All Instructions for the FWT445GES2
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