Models > FSE748GFS1 > Instructions

FSE748GFS1 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for FSE748GFS1 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the FSE748GFS1
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dryer had a bad squeak

  • Customer: Jana from Fort Worth TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Removed dryer front, unscrewed 3 screws in center hub, replaced bearing assembly. Removed old basket seal with razor scraper, cleaned surface with mineral spirits, applied new basket seal. Replaced dryer front and project was done. Dryer has no more sqeaks.

top glide was worn and "grabbing" clothes

  • Customer: DANIEL from WEST HAZLETON PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug dryer (gotta say it). Remove the two screws that hold in the lint catch. Remove top of dryer (two screws in back hold brackets, the front snaps on). remove two screws along the front edge to take front panel off the dryer (there are also clips). Unhook the two electrical connectors that control the door shut off. Once the front is off, remove the old glide and felt and install the new parts. Be sure not to step on the tube of contact cement, making it explode inside the bag. That sucked. Reassemble.

needed to stack dryer on top of washer

  • Customer: Grover from Kennett Square PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
The directions provided were excellent. I just had to remove the washer top, two brackets on the front of the washer and replace with the provided brackets, and finally put back brackets back on the washer. Getting help, I than placed the dryer on top of the washer lining up the brackets and screwed the front brackets together.

My husband ruined the old latch by trying to shut the door too hard, and the old latch fell down into the inside of the dryer.

  • Customer: Michelle from Dallas TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I took the new latch out of the package and snapped it into place. It took about 15 seconds, and that included the walk to the laundry room!

Burned out heater element

  • Customer: Gerald from Alliance NE
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
1.Remove 2 screws and the air intake grill on the back of the unit. remove the drive belt. 2. Remove 2 screws on rear of top, slide top back and remove. 3. Remove 2 screws about a foot down on the inside on each side of the front cover. Remove four screws that secure the plastic control panel and the front panel that are right behind the control panel on the top. Disconnect the wiring harnesses, cut the nylon wire tie that is closest to the front cover. 3. lay unit on its back and and remove the two screws on the lower edge of the front panel, take your putty knife and slide it in the gap between the front panel and the dryer cabinet and release the two spring clips on both sides. Then you can lift off the front panel and control panel, set it to the side. 4. Remove the screw and the nylon guide from the center of the top front case crossmember. Remove the three screws on the inside rear of the drum, lift out the drum and set aside. 5. The drum pivot just sits in a nylon socket, pop it toward the top of the machine and lift it out, you may want to clean it good and re-lubricate it on reassembly. Disconnect the wires from the heating element and the heat sensor. 6. Set the cabinet upright and remove the four screws on the back side of the rear of the cabinet but not the two that are right in the center, they hold the pivot fixture and don't need to come out. The heater coil pan is now loose and ready for removal. 7. The seal between the filter housing and the blower housing was torn and this is an important part to have right, any air leak here will do the same thing as a dirty lint filter or plugged dryer exhaust and your new heating element will have a short, hot life. I pulled the old one off, scrapped the old glue off, applied the adhesive like the instructions on the tube say and after a few minutes installed the new seal then set the front panel to the side to let the adhesive dry. 8. The reassembly is just the reverse of the disassembly , use a couple nails or awls to help hold the dryer heater pan in place for screw installation and you might want to gentle squeeze the wire connecters if they feel loose, also check for clogged or kinked exhaust and stress the importance of cleaning the lint filter after EVERY load, it is small and all the air that cools the heating element must go through it, if is isn't maintained your new element won't last long. Have fun!

Old Dryer drum veins degraded and broke down.

  • Customer: Alfred from Loveland CO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I opened the top of the dryer to gain access to the outside of the drum. Then I removed the screws holding the old drum veins in using the electric drill with the nut driver attachment. Then I positioned the new veins in place on the inside of the drum and replaced the screws from the outside of the drum to hold the veins in place. Then I replaced the top and was ready to go.

This is the third repair that I have done using parts from parts select. the other two repairs involved replacing electrical parts. Specifically thermostatic controls or swicthes. I am very happy with the parts and the diagrams provided on your web site without wich I would have had to replace my dryer a long time ago.

Squealing sound Idler arm and pulley

  • Customer: Lewis from Thornton CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
This is actually a white consolidated IND. brand, but that wasn't on your list. Be sure to check your tensioner pully if you hear squealing coming from the dryer. I changed the felt ring and the support bearing before realizing that my pully bushing was the cause of the noise. If you have squealing then spray a little wd40 on the bushing and shaft, if the noise stops, then you found the smoking gun. Replace the pulley. Unhook the spring and it comes right off. No tools needed.

The dryer drum wouldnt turn

  • Customer: Kara from Beckly WV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Had to pretty much disassemble the entire dryer. The schematics on the web site made it a snap to do. One word of advice. I you have to replace the rear drum assembly, the drum has to come out the front of the dryer. Part select made this a very positive experience.

Burning odor, melted terminal block

  • Customer: DAVID from DURHAM NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
0) Turned off breaker at panel and disconnected power cord from 240v wall outlet
1) Removed screws that hold electrical cover plate on back of dryer.
2) Lifted the top of dryer using putty knife on 2 top edges of lid. This lifts up like a cars hood.
3) Removed the screws that attach the power cord to the terminal block and disconnected power cord
4) Removed screws that attach terminal block to dryer
5) Removed melted terminals by prying out of terminal block. Note metal lip on terminal has to be lifted in order to slide connector out. Also unscrewed ground wire from terminal block to dryer.
6) Drew diagram of what color wires go to what terminals
7) Cut terminals off of wires and connected new terminals. Crimped closed and used butane solder torch to solder connection between terminal and wire
8) Reconnected terminals to terminal block by sliding in. **Note, had to file down the edges of the terminals using moto-tool to make it fit as they are connected together using break-away tabs that leave a large piece of metal connected not allowing to fit in terminal block
9) Reconnected terminal block to dryer and reconnected ground wire.
10) Reconnected power cord to terminal block with screws
11) Replaced cover over wiring terminal block
12) Reconnected power cored to 240ac wall outlet
13) Turned breaker back on

dryer squeeking while in use

  • Customer: Paul from Fort Edward NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
unplug dryer. lift the top of the dryer up and back. Take the screws out holding the front panel on. One on each side. Disconnect wires from door open stop switch and take front panel off. Remove drive belt from around pulleys and lift drum up and forward out the front of the dryer. I had to replace the plastic and metal holder and the grounding ball also. Remove the shaft from the drum and put he new one on. Put the drum back in, wrap the belt around the drum and set drum in plastic holder. Then just reverse your steps. Fairly easy.

dryer drum squealing loudly!

  • Customer: john from waynesboro VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
THIS UNIT IS A STACKABLE WASHER&DRYER,SO FIRST PULL UNIT AWAY FROM WALL ATLEAST 4 FOOT.UNPLUG POWER CORD,THEN TAKE10 DAGREE FRONT PANEL OFF THEN THE CONTROL PANEL OFF AND UNPLUG THE 5 CONNETORS IF YOUR UNIT HAS THAT MANY,THEN LAY PANEL ASSIDE.TAKE DRYER DOOR OFF,MAKES IT EASIER WHEN PUTTING IT ALL BACK TOGETHER.NOW TAKE FRONT PANEL OFF AND THE DRYER LENT TUBE,NOW JUST TAKE THE 3 CENTER PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWS OUT AND SLIDE DRUM OUT.PULL UPWARD ON WHAT THEY CALL THE SHAFT WHICH HELD DRUM ON.NOW THESE ARE THE PARTS YOU SHOULD ORDER.BELT,GROUNDING BALL CLIP,GROUNDING BALL,DRUM SUPPORT BEARING,BEARING BRACKET,AND MOST IMPORTANT PART IS THE SHAFT.THE SHAFT IS UR INSURANCE FOR THE WHOLE JOB.USE A GOOD GREASE LIKE WHITE LITHIUM GREASE AND COAT THE SHAFT END AND THE DRUM SUPPORT BEARING.THE GREASE WILL CUT DOWN ON FRICTION FOR A WHILE,AND RE ASSEMBLE THE WAY YOU TOOK APART.REMINDER GROUNDING BALL GOES BEHIND DRUM SUPPORT BEARING NOT IN FRONT.GOOD LUCK AND PLEASE VACCUM.

door won't close

  • Customer: Dustin from Edmonds WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
. Supper easy I can't beleive it was over $20 for a little peice of plastic!!!

Wretched screeching noise

  • Customer: Paul from Broadalbin NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Make sure you order a new belt and a new drum glide with the rear drum bearing assembly. If your bearing is worn out, so are the belt and drum glide!

1) Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to release the blind clips that hold the front side of the top of the dryer cabinet down
2) Swing dryer top up and remove two screws that hold the face of the cabinet.
3) Unplug the wiring harness and remove the cabinet face.
4) Remove the 3 screws that hold the drum to the bearing assembly (accessed from inside the drum. This makes it easier to remove the drum as the bearing assembly can be difficult to remove before you see how it snaps together
5) Reach under the drum and take the belt off the motor pulley, then remove the drum
6) Remove the old bearing assembly from the socket (slide up then out)
7) Remove the two screws that hold the bearing socket to the dryer
8) Fasten the new socket to the dryer (you'll need help doing this unless you have REALLY long arms because you have to reach inside the driver and the back of the dryer at the same time)
9) Grease the socket with the supplied high temp grease
10) Bolt the new bearing assembly to the drum and put the new belt around the drum
11) Put the drum back in and snap the bearing socket in and down
12) Guide the new belt around the motor pulley & tensioner
13) Glue the new drum glide / felt piece to the front cabinet
14) Put the cabinet back together

Dryer would not turn on

  • Customer: Michael from Erlanger KY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I contacted a company to come out and diagnose the problem. They informed me that the thermal limiter is bad and needed to be replaced for $15 for the part and $85 labor. I found the part on this site for about $10, and did the repair myself. The dryer was mostly dismantled so I pulled the drum back, and replaced the part. The tricky part was the pulley system was, so make sure you see it before hand or find a diagram online. Once that was figured out, I set the drum back up, greased and tightened the pulley, reattached the front of the washer with connections, and closed the lid.

Bearing Bracket Worn Out

  • Customer: David from Fairdale KY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Took off front panel, removed drum and replaced parts listed. A bit tricky to keep small parts in place. However, masking tape helped. Best of all was the online diagram of how the parts were assembled. In addition, taking step by step phone pixs aided in replacing parts since there was some down time between diagnosis and installation.
All Instructions for the FSE748GFS1
31-45 of 480