FSE447GHS0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

The directions provided were excellent. I just had to remove the washer top, two brackets on the front of the washer and replace with the provided brackets, and finally put back brackets back on the washer. Getting help, I than placed the dryer on top of the washer lining up the brackets and screwed the front brackets together.

This is actually a white consolidated IND. brand, but that wasn't on your list. Be sure to check your tensioner pully if you hear squealing coming from the dryer. I changed the felt ring and the support bearing before realizing that my pully bushing was the cause of the noise. If you have squealing then spray a little wd40 on the bushing and shaft, if the noise stops, then you found the smoking gun. Replace the pulley. Unhook the spring and it comes right off. No tools needed.

Waited only 2 days for part. That was with REGULAR delivery. It usually takes weeks to get out to REMOTE northern Minnesota.
Unstacked the dryer took off the top. 2 screws to open front. Pulled 3 drum mounting screws. Pulled the drum. Removed the pivot. Cleaned (blowed and vacuumed everywhere). Cleaned the pivot receptacle. Relubed the pivot with high temp lube. Removed 2 motor assy mounting screws. Screwed off the squirrel cage. Swapped the motor. Remounted new motor assy. Looped belt over drum. Remounted the drum. Closed the front. Closed the top. Opened the belt access plate on the rear. Looped new belt over the tensioner. Closed the access plate. Restacked dryer. Turned it on. Sounds like brand new. Less than 2 hours. Saved more than $800. More than I generally make an hour! Actually I saved a lot more than $800 because I probably would have had to buy both the washer and dryer stack so it could have been around $2500.
Everything I ordered arrived in 1 box and all parts are right!
Now in my spare time I need to replace the bearings on the old motor and I'll be ready for the next time, in another 10 years!

Unplugged the dryer from electrical socket. Vacuumed lint from dryer and exit hose. Removed top from dryer. Used pliers to remove the 2 wires from the thermal limiter. Used screwdriver to remove 2 screws that held the limiter in place.
Installed the new limiter, connected the 2 wires, plugged in the dryer's electrical connection, turned on dryer, and resumed my "washday chores".

1) Unplug the unit.
2) Remove all screws from top of the unit except for the one in the center front that does not go through the outer casing.
3) Find the Thermal Limiter which is on the back wall near the top on the left side when looking from the front.
4) Disconnect the two wires
5) Remove the two screws that mount the limiter to the back wall.
6) Use an ohmeter to test if a current flows through the unit. If no current flows through (an open switch), then the unit will need to be replaced.
7) Clean any lint that you can at this point.
8) Use two screws to mount new Thermal Limiter
9) Reconnect the two wires to the Limiter.
10) Attach the top of the dryer case.

I opened the top of the dryer to gain access to the outside of the drum. Then I removed the screws holding the old drum veins in using the electric drill with the nut driver attachment. Then I positioned the new veins in place on the inside of the drum and replaced the screws from the outside of the drum to hold the veins in place. Then I replaced the top and was ready to go.

This is the third repair that I have done using parts from parts select. the other two repairs involved replacing electrical parts. Specifically thermostatic controls or swicthes. I am very happy with the parts and the diagrams provided on your web site without wich I would have had to replace my dryer a long time ago.

This unit is a stackable washer&dryer,so first pull unit away from wall atleast 4 foot. Unplug power cord,then take10 dagree front panel off then the control panel off and unplug the 5 connetors if your unit has that many,then lay panel asside. Take dryer door off,makes it easier when putting it all back together. Now take front panel off and the dryer lent tube,now just take the 3 center phillips head screws out and slide drum out. Pull upward on what they call the shaft which held drum on. Now these are the parts you should order. Belt,grounding ball clip,grounding ball,drum support bearing,bearing bracket,and most important part is the shaft. The shaft is ur insurance for the whole job. Use a good grease like white lithium grease and coat the shaft end and the drum support bearing. The grease will cut down on friction for a while,and re assemble the way you took apart. Reminder grounding ball goes behind drum support bearing not in front. Good luck and please vaccum.

had to remove the belt and drum and then remove the motor and replace it...put the belt on and then the hard part was to get the drum in place without the belt coming off. New Motor works quieter than the old one did, so I assume the dryer came with a defective motor to begin with and then the shaft finally broke. It runs very quiet now, but never did before. Even a service man came when it was new but said that was normal. Now we know it was not....there was a problem from the start.

After reading about similar problems people have had with this make of dryer, I focused attention on the thermal limiter. I determined that it was the culprit by "jumping" it with a 6" piece of wire. Then I simply went on the site, ordered the part. It arrived a few days later and I pulled out the old one, screwed in the new one, and the dryer is good as new.

0) Turned off breaker at panel and disconnected power cord from 240v wall outlet
1) Removed screws that hold electrical cover plate on back of dryer.
2) Lifted the top of dryer using putty knife on 2 top edges of lid. This lifts up like a cars hood.
3) Removed the screws that attach the power cord to the terminal block and disconnected power cord
4) Removed screws that attach terminal block to dryer
5) Removed melted terminals by prying out of terminal block. Note metal lip on terminal has to be lifted in order to slide connector out. Also unscrewed ground wire from terminal block to dryer.
6) Drew diagram of what color wires go to what terminals
7) Cut terminals off of wires and connected new terminals. Crimped closed and used butane solder torch to solder connection between terminal and wire
8) Reconnected terminals to terminal block by sliding in. **Note, had to file down the edges of the terminals using moto-tool to make it fit as they are connected together using break-away tabs that leave a large piece of metal connected not allowing to fit in terminal block
9) Reconnected terminal block to dryer and reconnected ground wire.
10) Reconnected power cord to terminal block with screws
11) Replaced cover over wiring terminal block
12) Reconnected power cored to 240ac wall outlet
13) Turned breaker back on

Other repair stories about this product are very accurate and I used them to do the repair, so I see no need to be redundant.

I'd just like to draw attention to the following:
Disassembling the dryer is somewhat easy. Replacing the heating element is very easy.
Replacing the belt is very easy.

Replacing the drum bearing is somewhat difficult. I purchased a "T" screwdriver in order to get more torque on the screws. When I had the drum bearing in place and the screws partially inserted, I laid a piece of thick foam on the floor and set the drum, bearing side down, on the foam. It is very difficult to get enough tension on the screws to get them through the bearing plate, but setting the drum up this way at least allows you to use gravity to your advantage.

Thanks again to Part Select for making the part purchasing experience so effortless.

Thanks to other writers of "Repair Stories" for making my repair so easy.

First use a vacum to remove all the dust and lint inside the dryer fraim

Some problims removing old rear drum bearing assembly. Also removing old drum guide bottom Adhesive.
I used a new wire brush, but if I had a brush that fit a drill this would have been better to remove the adhesive.

I then applied the Glue, drum seal and small clamps to hold in place so the glue could dry overnight the next day 30 mins and the dryer was back togeather.

1.Remove 2 screws and the air intake grill on the back of the unit. remove the drive belt. 2. Remove 2 screws on rear of top, slide top back and remove. 3. Remove 2 screws about a foot down on the inside on each side of the front cover. Remove four screws that secure the plastic control panel and the front panel that are right behind the control panel on the top. Disconnect the wiring harnesses, cut the nylon wire tie that is closest to the front cover. 3. lay unit on its back and and remove the two screws on the lower edge of the front panel, take your putty knife and slide it in the gap between the front panel and the dryer cabinet and release the two spring clips on both sides. Then you can lift off the front panel and control panel, set it to the side. 4. Remove the screw and the nylon guide from the center of the top front case crossmember. Remove the three screws on the inside rear of the drum, lift out the drum and set aside. 5. The drum pivot just sits in a nylon socket, pop it toward the top of the machine and lift it out, you may want to clean it good and re-lubricate it on reassembly. Disconnect the wires from the heating element and the heat sensor. 6. Set the cabinet upright and remove the four screws on the back side of the rear of the cabinet but not the two that are right in the center, they hold the pivot fixture and don't need to come out. The heater coil pan is now loose and ready for removal. 7. The seal between the filter housing and the blower housing was torn and this is an important part to have right, any air leak here will do the same thing as a dirty lint filter or plugged dryer exhaust and your new heating element will have a short, hot life. I pulled the old one off, scrapped the old glue off, applied the adhesive like the instructions on the tube say and after a few minutes installed the new seal then set the front panel to the side to let the adhesive dry. 8. The reassembly is just the reverse of the disassembly , use a couple nails or awls to help hold the dryer heater pan in place for screw installation and you might want to gentle squeeze the wire connecters if they feel loose, also check for clogged or kinked exhaust and stress the importance of cleaning the lint filter after EVERY load, it is small and all the air that cools the heating element must go through it, if is isn't maintained your new element won't last long. Have fun!

got new door handle, inserted and clipped into place, no tools needed, time to repair 5 secs, 1 sec to insert handle, 4 secs to open and shut door numerous times to make sure it was in right. Washer and dryer are over 10 years old, but I like them because you can repair them if something breaks, with the newer models don't know if you can do this.

Removed dryer front, unscrewed 3 screws in center hub, replaced bearing assembly. Removed old basket seal with razor scraper, cleaned surface with mineral spirits, applied new basket seal. Replaced dryer front and project was done. Dryer has no more sqeaks.