DIODE 5304509479

Hi Dwain, Thank you for your question. If the microwave is not heating you will need to check the magnetron, the fuse, the diode, and the capacitor. These are high voltage parts and you will need to remove the charge from them in order to test them. If you are not comfortable doing this yourself you will need to have a technician help you with this. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Hi Dwain, thank you for your question. You would need to discharge the charge from your capacitor as that can seriously shock you. You need to be wearing an electrical resistant glove and you can use an insulated screw driver to touch the capacitor after the appliance has been unplugged. That should discharge the electricity from the capacitor. You may want to consult a technician if you are unsure. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

Hello Randal, thank you for your question. If the microwave shares a circuit with other appliances and runs at the same time as those appliances, they’ll quickly overload the circuit and trip the breaker. If you don’t have anything else plugged in it could be one of a few things. First, make sure there is no water inside around the turntable then you should check your door switches and capacitor. You can test your door switches with a multimeter. First, unplug your microwave. Some door switches have only two metal prongs extending from the body, while others have three. Those with three terminals will have a common (COM) terminal, a normally closed (N.C.) terminal, and a normally open (N.O.) terminal. Those switches with only two terminals will have either a common terminal and a normally open terminal, or a common terminal and a normally closed terminal. We are providing directions for testing a door switch with three terminals. If you are dealing with a door switch that has only two terminals, ignore the part of this test that does not apply to you. Using caution, remove all wiring harness leads from the switch's terminals. Use your ohmmeter to test your switch for continuity. Touch one meter lead to the COM terminal and the other lead to the N.O. terminal. Do not push in on the actuator. Your meter should give a reading of infinity, meaning the circuit is open, and there is no continuity. Without moving the meter's leads, press down on the actuator until you hear a 'click'. With the 'click' of the actuator, the meter should produce a resistance reading of zero ohms. This means the circuit is closed and continuity is present. (Switches with only two terminals do not 'click' when actuated) Keep the meter lead that is touching the COM terminal in place but move the other meter lead from the N.O. terminal to the N.C. terminal. You should receive a reading of infinity when you push in on the switch's actuator. When the actuator is released, you should receive a resistance reading of zero ohms. Now, set your ohmmeter to its highest resistance scale and touch one meter lead to the N.O. terminal and the other meter lead to the N.C. terminal. The resistance reading between these two leads should be infinite. Finally, take a resistance reading from both the N.C. terminal and the N.O. terminal to any metal mounting hardware that is a part of the switch assembly. You should receive a normal reading of infinity. Any readings that differ from the ones presented here are indicative of a defective door switch that will need to be replaced. Door switch part number PS12071303 and Switch part number PS12071302. You can also test the capacitor with a multi-meter. To prevent electrocution make sure after unplugging your capacitor that you release any electrical charge. You can do this with a screwdriver that has an insulated handle. When testing your capacitor set your meter to 1000 ohms. Touch your probes to the terminals on the part. If your meter stays on 0 then your capacitor needs to be replaced. High voltage capacitor part Number PS12071313 and Capacitor part number PS12071296. We hope this helps.