Models > FGF337ECC > Instructions

FGF337ECC Frigidaire Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for FGF337ECC parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the FGF337ECC
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Oven quit heating.

  • Customer: John from Darlington SC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 374 of 378 people found this instruction helpful
After reading up on the problem of the gas oven not lighting I decided I needed to install a new igniter. I had read where some people just pulled a panel off the back and installed a new one.. yeah, no such luck with this model so I had to crawl into the broiler drawer space [which I had to clean out first]. Note, if you wear trifocal glasses you might as well close your eyes and replace it by feel because there is no way to tilt your head back enough to see what you are doing and still get both arms and your chest in a broiler. Also be sure to remove all cats and dogs from the area before starting. They seem to think they can help or it's a game of hide and seek and they want to hide with you.. they were no help at all.
Other than that, it was quite easy.

Oven was difficult to light, then stopped lighting altogether

  • Customer: Ritchie from Ithaca NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 185 of 261 people found this instruction helpful
1. Turned off circuit breaker to stove
2. Removed the two screws holding down the floor of the oven (screws are at back.), and then lifted it out.
3. Removed the nut holding down the flame guard, and lifted it off.
4. Opened the bottom drawer.
5. Removed the protective cover in the back left of the oven at the bottom, first removing the one screw at the bottom that holds it. This reveals a white plug, presumably going to a fuse.
6. Disconnected the white plastic connector, lifting its front tab to release it.
7. The igniter wires go to two lugs that attach at the floor of the oven at the back (one goes via the now free white connector). Slide back the plastic lug covers and use pliers to pull off the lugs. Note that the wider one (on the right) goes to the top of the igniter, while the narrower one (on the left) goes to the bottom of the igniter via the white plastic connector.
8. Removed the two bolts holding the igniter.
9. At this point, the igniter comes out. Nice, since it means you can work on the wires in comfort.
10. Slide the flame retardant sleeves away from the igniter. I found in-line connections about 1.5 inches from the igniter, and cut the wires next to these (on the side away from the igniter, of course.), and stripped the final 3/8 inch. Shorten the wires on the replacement igniter so that they are 3 or 4 inches long, slide on the flame retardant sleeves, then strip the final 3/8ths inch. Use the provided caps to connect the wires. Bottom wire goes to the plastic connector, top wire goes to the wide lug.
11. Install the new igniter by connecting the lugs, sliding on their protective plastic sleeves, reconnecting the white plastic connector, screwing in the two igniter mounting screws, and reinstalling the corner cover. Put back the flame shield and floor of the oven. Turn on the circuit breaker, and it works!

Oven took too long to Light. House smelled like Gas!

  • Customer: JOHN from LA MESA CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 106 of 172 people found this instruction helpful
Turned Off Breaker!
Removed 2 screws that held Igniter in place.
Cut Old Wires Free
Marked location to old igniter with tape so I didn't cross connect.
Stripped new wire ends.
Used Wire Nuts to connect New part (provided).
Installed New Igniter with 2 screws.
Flipped Breaker On.
Tested
WORKS PERFECT.

Saved over $500.00 by repairing rather than replacing.

Oven Would Not Heat - Oven Ignitor Failure

  • Customer: Peter from Fife Lake MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 104 of 168 people found this instruction helpful
I first looked up my Model Number on PartSelect.com and looked at the schematic as well as Trouble Shooted my problem.

Reading the posts by others how they Removed, Replaced, and Repaired their Oven Ignitors, I used their helpful info, and of course did mine.

1. Unplugged my Oven/Stove.

2. Removed bottom storage door to get access to cover plate.

3. Removed oven racks inside oven to gain access to and removed Flame Cover.

4. Removed Screw holding Oven Ignitor in place.

5. Unplugged Ignitor Plug from feed wird in Oven from underneath.

6. Removed Oven Ignitor from the bottom area where storage drawer was.

7. Installed new Ignitor and replaced screw holding Ignitor assembly in place.

8. Replace Flame cover and racks.

9. Plugged in new ignitor underneath, and replaced cover plate.

10. Plugged in Stove/Oven and Oven began to heat! IGNITOR worked!

11. Replaced bottom drawer and slid Stove back into position.

All went easy and only difficulty was replacing cover plate below as it is awkward and having to line up screws/holes was a bit trying.

Using Work Light essential to see well, and, some screws may or can be hard to remove.

Both my neighbor and I ordered our Ignitors within a week of each other. My Oven was Amana his is a Tappan. His failed after a few weeks, but, PartSelect replaced promptly and we are all happy.

Bought a new gas oven that did not come with a propane conversion kit.

  • Customer: Denny from Bishop CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench set
  • 52 of 72 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the simple instructions that were included in the kit. I started by replacing the 5 orifices on the top burners. The orifices are well labeled with numbers and colors. Next, I tightened the broiler burner orifice and the oven burner orifice with a 1/2 inch wrench. I had to tighten them pretty good to get the flame down where it is supposed to be. Then, I checked for leaks and I was then ready to cook.

Stove was set up for natural gas and needed to be converted to LP

  • Customer: Ed from Orange TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 58 of 92 people found this instruction helpful
The LP conversion kit contained very good, detailed instructions. I replaced the gas orifices, took off the bottom door and adjusted the regulator.

Used the screwdriver to adjust the low flame and everything was done.

Safety valve would not open

  • Customer: Ed from Darby PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 46 of 57 people found this instruction helpful
I am an HVAC tech by trade so it wasn't difficult to diagnose problem with safety valve. The hard part was being without an oven for a week. Repair was simple and effective--oven works good as new.
Shut off gas and unplugged oven. Removed floor of oven between broiler and bake section, used wrenches to disconnect gas line from safety valve in back of oven, used philipps head screwdriver to remove burner assembly and gas valve, reversed process to replace. Checked out operation--OK.

We had a transformer go out in our block and made a surge which blew out the electronic oven control

  • Customer: Alberto from Houston TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 36 of 39 people found this instruction helpful
The repair of the oven was really easy . I removed a total of 7 screws with a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the back cover of the instrument panel. I then unplugged the wires from the from the oven control and with a phillups screw driver I removed 4 screws that hold the oven control,the face plate with the words on it has to be taken off the old control and put on the new one . I then installed the new oven control by putting the 4 screws back on and plugging back the wires. I then replaced the back cover with the 7 screws and plugged the power back in the outlet, The clock has to be adjusted and your done.

Range would not come on

  • Customer: MaryLou from Monroe NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 42 of 81 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off power, took back off stove removed old probe.
I had to splice wires since new probe ends did not match up.
the instructions were to splice the wires. I had the breaker off for about 3 hours. this is not in the instructions, but being a widow, I had to ask a few people why it would not come on after I connected the wires.
After waiting, I turned the breaker on and my range came back on.

Oven took too long to light, then it didn't light at all

  • Customer: JULIE from CLOVIS CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 24 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
1: Remove oven door.
2: Remove bottom shield, slide in.
3: Remove flame deflector four (4) screws, nut driver.
4: Remove igniter, two (2) screws, nut driver.
5: Remove lower drawer, slide in.
6: Remove wire shield, two (2) screws, nut driver.
7: Disconnect two (2) wire nuts, hands
8: Remove old igniter, hands
9: Install new part in reverse order...

I should have ordered it earlier. It was so easy to install. At first, the oven took 1 minute to light, then, a bit longer, finally around 20 minutes, I told my husband that he needs to get it fixed. So, finally when it wouldn't light at all... I ordered the part and had him install it. It took less than 15 minutes, listening to him the whole time. Now it's wonderful, like a new oven again. Lights up like it should.

Great part selection. Fast service. Thank you

The oven took too long to ignite (3-5 minutes), or didn't ignite at all. Same description as others on this site.

  • Customer: Glenn from Jenison MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off the breaker to the oven. Took out the racks and oven floor. Took out the steel deflector that sits on top of the oven burner itself (one bolt/washer). Removed the two bolts holding the igniter. Pulled the old igniter around the other side of the burner to be able to better access the wires. There was a woven sleeve around the ends of the wires, pulled those down the wire to expose the connection. There was an inline connector about 2-3 inches from the igniter, and normal wire after that. I cut the wires where that connection was made and stripped 3/8 inch off the cut wires. Then I cut the wires of the new igniter to the same length as what remained on the old igniter, stripped 3/8 inch off of those, paired them up and used the ceramic wire nuts that came with the new part to make the new connections. Put it all back together, and fired it up. It works wonderfully!

The clock unit went out so the oven could not work.

  • Customer: Carol from Newberry Springs CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
The screws had to be removed to take top off stove back and remove the unit. New unit was put in place and screws put back in.

igniter glows but oven will not light

  • Customer: James from Virginia IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 17 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
The igniter has to be drawing atleast 3 amps for the gas valve to open. If it only draws 2.6 amps like the one i replaced it, the oven won't light.

Oven light receptacle broken - bulb base broke off

  • Customer: Paul from Spokane Valley WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

Oven would work sporadicly, while baking

  • Customer: Ronald from Altoona FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Removed back plate from range. Removed the clock/timer from range. (note), a special square headed screwdriver needed to remove this unit. I had to use the old clock/timer face. This required careful removal of the face from old unit. Plugged in new unit and refastened it . Turned on range and checked all functions, everything worked fine. Probably save at least one hundred dollars by doing it myself. Will probably use Parts Select for any otaher work I do in the future. Ron
All Instructions for the FGF337ECC
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