FGF337ECC Frigidaire Range - Instructions

I replaced the oven control board. I used the old overlay because I could not find a model # but I was able to locate the exact replacement part. it took some to find, but it paided off.Thanks for your help. I Got the replacement part # from the old control board.

I was replacing a range oven hood, so I pulled the oven away from the wall but left it plugged in. I removed the old oven hood, which had an exhaust pipe that was still mounted through the cupboard. While I was preparing the new oven hood the exhaust pipe fell out of the cupboard and cut the oven wire in half. I was able to find the part number on the existing cord and looked up on line. I ordered the part using 3-5 business days and it showed up in 2 days. I was able to attach the new cord, which had an easy clip plug, and secure back to the stove. Very easy and very inexpensive to do.

Would have been simple if Frigidare had not changed the plastic snap wire connector on the part. The replacement part had a different snap together wire connection. After a couple of phone calls stating that the new part and the old part had different part numbers was informed that you have to snip off the ends and use wire connects but it was the right part. Once I knew that it was a simple repair if you have the wire connects to connect the wires.

Very Easy. Part arrived in less than 48 hours of ordering. Followed the directions included with part and referenced the information posted here.I have no mechanical talent and was able to install the part without difficulty.

I checked the igniter resistance with an ohm meter. It read about 350 ohms. Voltage across igniter leads with igniter removed was 120 volts when the oven temperature control was turned on, so I knew the gas control and thermostat were ok. The new igniter has a resistance of about 220 ohms, so the difference was apparently enough to keep the oven from turning on. This is the second igniter I've replaced in this 20 year old oven, the first bad igniter had open resistance, obviously since it was visibly cracked. The repair went very fast, directions were great.

Turned off power removed racks removed bottom panel removed flame distribution plate removed igniter i didn't use -the wire nuts 'the wires on the new part were more than long enough so i installed new stake ons reveresd disassembly process turned power back on and now it works great with a factory look

We recently purchased condo and WhiteWestinghouse range needed some love. the old racks were not in very good shape so we ordered new.

replaced the ignitor switch, umplug oven turn off gas. removed racks unscrewed two screws in back of oven (inside of oven), removed bottom piece of oven, one screw for broiler cover removed, then two screws for ignitor, cut wires peeled off some excess covering, twisted the new ignitor to wires covered with attached cap tightly replaced two screws in ignitior, replaced one screw in broiler cover, two screws for bottom cover, replaced racks, pluged in turned gas and turned on stove ignitor lit up and started oven broiler, now i can cook again.

turn the gas off unplugged it form electric removed the line took the flame plate off removed burner tube and the screw out with a nut driver that was all just put it back in reverse

I was unable to loosen the screws myself so I called my friends husband to help me. We watched the video together and followed the instructions. The door in the video was a bit different than mine but this repair was easy.

1. First, I read other people's instructions on this site, and that helped quite a bit. My own model was attached somewhat differently, so I was unable to replace the igniter in the same fashion as others. 2. Turned off the power to the oven after having done the non-electrical work: removed cover plate from bottom of inside oven (two screws in the back) to expose the igniter, and the heat shield from underneath the oven once the oven drawer was removed. Old, old screws so that was a bit of rolling around on the floor. 3. After that it was fairly easy: turned off the breaker, snipped one igniter wire from a plastic harness assembly under the oven and the other from the electrical core underneath the oven which was attached with a clamp. 4. Removed two screws to release the igniter. Now I could work on it in the light. Stripped the old wire underneath the oven, attached the old clamp to the other new wire, and then clamped one wire on and joined the other to the plastic harness wire with the screw cap. It was a bit of effort merely to get at things, but not difficult. Breaker back on, and the oven now works perfectly.

Just opened up the oven and went to work. Really easy repair. Removed floor of oven with two thumb screws. Removed flame diverter plate from burner with one screw. Removed igniter with two screws. Marked top wire, then untwisted old wire nuts to remove the old igniter. Replaced with new igniter and used enclosed new wire nuts. Reassembly was simply the reverse of above. Only issue - I needed longer arms to comfortably reach back into the oven!

I read through the service manual first and also found a Youtube video for Frigidaire gas ovens that were a close match to mine. Well worth the time spent researching the repair. Since I would have the oven opened up, I chose to replace all the related parts at the same time. Before disconnecting any wires, I drew a quick diagram of everything for easy reference. I had to replace the new connectors with the old ones on the igniter and probe and the spark module just snapped in moving one wire at a time to the new unit. Two weeks into it and the oven comes right up to temp as advertised.

changed the orfices with a 10mm socket and driver handle used an adjustable wrench to tighten the orfice in the bottom of the oven approximately 45 minutes we were using the range

My mom did the repair for me. We did not have the right tools for the job which made it harder to do. First I flipped the breaker. Then we took out the oven racks. We then took the bottom metal part off the oven. This exposed the shield part and we removed it. Then she cut the wires and connected the new igniter the same way the old one was connected. It took about thirty minutes. We could do it again in about fifteen with the right tools. We went and priced new stoves the cheapest was 350.00. I'm so excited that my stove is working properly again.