Models > FEX831CS0 > Instructions

FEX831CS0 Frigidaire Washer / Dryer Combo - Instructions

All installation instructions for FEX831CS0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer / dryer combo repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the FEX831CS0
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Washer not spinning, water leaking out bottom

  • Customer: Michael from Springfield VT
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 21 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
My first step was to download and print out the parts diagrams from the manufacturer's website. With a basic idea of what I needed to get to I first removed the agitator cap and the agitator and right off I found a broken bolt on plate lock bracket that holds trunnion which supports and connects the tub to the transmission drive shaft. I replaced the bolt and put it back together and gave it a test run. Spun very nicely now but water was going everywhere. Unfortunately I found that when the bolt broke the tub had slipped down and ripped the rubber "tub seal assembly". To get to the seal I ended up tearing the machine completely down and removing the whole motor and transmission assembly out of the unit. It may be possible to get at the seal without doing this but I'm not 100% sure. To get the whole unit apart I did the following: Remove the front panel by removing the two screws located at the very bottom of the panel and lifting up and out .Remove the top/lid by removing two screws underneath the top toward the front, and disconnecting lid switch, or i found it easier to just unscrew and remove it, then lift off the top/lid assembly. Remove the agitator cap and the agitator. Remove the splash cover (this is not easy- I popped each tab with a flat screw driver- the ones at the rear were very difficult). I tried to remove the fill spigot but could not get at one of the screws so getting the splash cover out was not as easy as it could have been. Remove the bolts in the bottom of the tub and lift it out. Unhook the drain hose and the level or "pressure tube". Remove the 3 large and 3 small springs from the motor assembly ( I needed a strong spring hook but all I had was vice grips, they work but it was not easy). remove any other wires etc. (mark things with tape and matching numbers if needed) and pull out the whole barrel and motor assembly. Unbolt the splash tub and remove, unbolt the trunnion and remove. And finally replace the seal. Reassemble in reverse order. Important!! Clean shaft well (I used some 300 grit fine sandpaper to remove the little bit of rust scale that had accumulated) and lubricate everything. be very careful when reassembling, as to not scuff up the seals at all. I used a silicone spray. This might not be the best thing for the job but I know at least not to use anything petroleum based such as WD-40 when you are lubricating rubber or plastic. Reinstalling the springs was very difficult and again a spring hook would have been great. Everything else went together reasonably easy. The unit works fine now. many thanks to the websites I researched to get this done.

Terminal Block Melts when power cord connector is left loose by install crew.

  • Customer: Arthur from Grand Prairie TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 25 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
1) Removed Top Dryer Cover (pushed 2 compression clips on front side 1" from top and 2" in from each side) to gain access to terminal block in rear.
2) Removed 2 screws over terminal block cover and 2 screws holding bad terminal block in place. Removed 3 screws holding bad power cord,
3) Removed good terminal connectors from bad terminal block and reinstalled them in the new terminal block.
4) Cut dryer wire from bad terminal block connector and soldered (optional) them to the new terminal block connector. Installed this connector into the new terminal block.
5) Installed new terminal block in dryer with 2 screws.
6) Installed new power cord on new terminal block ensuring contacts were tight and cord had pull guard properly installed. Reinstalled terminal block cover with 2 screws.
7) Reinstalled Dryer Top Cover.

discharge of water out of wash machine

  • Customer: William from York Springs PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 21 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
remove side panel & start rinse cycle & heard a grinding noise in discharge pump. used a bucket to catch water upon removeal of discharge hose to pump. unplug disconnect plug to motor, remove pump from unit. Discovered propeller was loose in housing. Googled Partselect.com, odered part & in 2 days later installed new pump on unit. Started a load of wash & it has been working perfect ever since. thanks to PartSelect.com for the service, the repair was minimal & easy for the DO IT YOURSELFER. Bill Starry

Agitator Drive Block wore out

  • Customer: James from Somerville MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 32 of 60 people found this instruction helpful
Removed fastening screw and Agitator. Removed and replaced Agitator Drive Block. Replaced and fastened Agitator. Done in 5 min.

Ordered part around noon. Shipping was 3-5 days. Part arrived in LESS than 24 hours.

Very happy camper here!

Dryer was overheating.

  • Customer: Sue from Houston TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 21 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
I looked at two Youtube videos, one by Repair Clinic and the other by Shawn C Farm on how to take apart a Frigidaire dryer, and with Part Select diagram as to where the parts were located within the dryer which I was going to replace, made the job easy. Youtube www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qg1W9RrxXLY Youtube www.youtube.com/watch?v=zc1sTUiYzzk

The washer would not drain

  • Customer: Harry from Zephyrhills FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 17 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
After removing the front of the washer, I used slip joint pliers for the hose clamps, then a screwdriver for the mount bolts and replaced the pump motor in reverse order. The pump was ordered on line on a Friday before 10am and was delivered on saturday moring by FedEx. I could not have expected such fast and efficent service!
Great Job!!

washing machine will not drain or spin

  • Customer: Heath Harris from Arnold MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 20 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
removed upper cover, removed front cover, tested switch with digital VOM, removed and replaced!
2 screws, 4 wires! saved over $100 when compared to a bill from a repair service!

fast shipping too! will recommend others!

The Agitator

  • Customer: Kyle from Maricopa AZ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required:
  • 21 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
The top of the agitator broke off so the washing machine was no longer spinning the agitator. Took the nut off the top of the agitator and there was a steel sleeve inside that had to come out of the agitator and be put into the new agitator so it would sit correctly on the "tower" and spin. It took me awhile to get the sleeve out of the old agitator but once I did it slipped right into the new agitator and then the new agitator bolted right onto the "tower". It only cost me $40.00 for a new part so I'm sure I saved myself around 100 dollars or more by doing it myself.

Dryer squealed loudly

  • Customer: Glenn from Fort Worth TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 18 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
First, I removed the top panel which is held on at the front by pressure clips. Second, I removed the entire front panel which entailed removing 2 screws and 2 wire couplings. Third, I removed the 3 screws on the inside center of the drum which turned out to be unnecessary. Fourth, I slid the drum forward in order to access the rear bearing. Lastly, I replaced the entire bearing assembly including the shaft, bracket, bearing, grounding ball and clip. Again, probably not needed but I had ordered the parts in advance in preparation for the worst.

the belt was all worn out , it make a lot of noise

  • Customer: CARLOS from BEALETON VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 20 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
i took out the two back screws lift the top.
took the two bottom front screws , lifted andtook off the front panel.took off the old belt an intall the new one in a circular motion put the panel and top back on and done.

Had a professional do the install. He had difficulty aligning the cabinet so that it did not rub against the dryer drum. The parts you mailed me worked fine and resolved the problem. Thanks. Even having to pay the installer saved me 50% on the total job.

  • Customer: michael from jupiter FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 18 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
Installer unscrewed the screws on the upper panel, loosened the pulley holding the rubber drum cable, and pulled the drum up and out of the unit. With the rear heating element exposed, he unplugged the wire connections to the heating element, unscrewed the four screws holding the element to the rear panel and took the element out. Then he installed the new heating element by re-applying the four screws into the rear panel. He then replaced the thermal limiter which was directly at the right of the heating element by unplugging the wire connections to the thermal limiter and then unscrewing the thermal limiter from the rear panel. The process to install the new thermal limiter was the reverse process. He didn't install a new High Limit Thermostat because there was one attached to the new Heater. When all the new parts were installed, he reinstalled the drum by pushing the rear nub of the drum into the whole at the center of the heating plate. He then placed the rubber drum cable around the drum with the rough service facing the drum, placed the cable on the pulley and adjusted the tension of the cable with a screw driver. He then reinstalled the front panel by aligned the screw holes and reinserting and tightening the screws.

Tub wouldn't drain

  • Customer: Brian from Murfreesboro TN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 17 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the front panel,then set the timer to run. It began the drain,spin cycle, pump ran, but no water went out. Shop-vac the water out,removed hoses from pump,took out mounting screws from base, unplug pump plug. check hoses for debris since they're open, the impeller was broken. ordered the part . Mount the pump to the base, put the hoses on, plug in motor and replace front panel. plug into wall

Dryer overheated and stopped working

  • Customer: Paul from Holiday FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
The first thing I did was cheked the electrical panel and breaker, then I checked the electrical cord, then I did check the motor on the bottom of the machine (that may be is the blower motor) looking for any indication of burned parts or broken, then I checked the on-off switch with a voltmeter looking for continuity and it was fine. Then I checked the timer switch and it was fine as well. Finally, I took the lid off the top of the dryer machine to check the thermostat and themal limiter fuse. The thermostat was fine but the thermal fuse was open. So after doing some research to understand how the fuse work I decided to place an order to get a new fuse. I installed it and the dryer started working again. After replacing the fuse I monitored the dryer machine while operating it and worked fine. Why the fuse was open or was damaged? It is the first time I have problems w/ the dryer. I checked the end of the conduct line that guide the air out and I noticed and have to clean the end of it because it was dirt. Because it was not completly clean, the dryer got overheated. It took me sometime to figure out the problem but I learned, save me money and the best part was that I do it myself : )

water pump broke

  • Customer: Lili from Jamestwn NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
My Husband did the repair it took less than 15 minutes. He popped the front off the washer. He then unscrewed two screws and removed the pump assembly. He popped the new pump in, and put in the tow screws. Then he put the washer front back on replacing two screws. It took all of five minutes. I am so pleased it was so easy. I told him next time I'd do the repair and he could watch!
Lil

My old lint filter had a few holes in it.

  • Customer: Marc from Malden MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 14 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
I got online and found that everyone was charging a king's ransom for a piece of plastic. Your ransom was slightly less. Then I paid $7 shipping and handling for the part which came packed in a box six times its size...I guess all that cardboard costs a mint. I opened the box, removed the lint filter, and put it into my dryer....voila! No more holes!
All Instructions for the FEX831CS0
16-30 of 231